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2013 Hand Plane Swap

55K views 1.2K replies 83 participants last post by  Iguana  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
In light of the success of the recent marking gauge swap, we've decided to swap some shop made hand planes.

Also join the Swap the knowledge.

EDIT FOR THE RESULTS ........The planes!!
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Join the next swap. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/54712


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Dates
There will not be a last day to enter, as long as you have time to build the plane by the following deadlines.
Time frame - shipment by Oct 15th.
Since I'm trying to match up plane types, and I want to ensure everybody who gets a plane sends a plane we'll do this a little different than the last.

As soon as you've got you're plane completed send me a photo @ LJ-swap@gmx.com and tell me what it is and what you would like. At that time I'll match you with the next available slot. If you don't care what you get, then that will help me out. PLEASE add your address in the same email as the picture.

Oct 10th for the deadline to get me a picture of the completed plane.
Send a picture as soon as its complete.

Obviously the longer you wait, the less chance you'll get a requested plane.

Even if you've never made a plane before, PLEASE join in. There are lots of folks here to help out.

Most of all, have some fun.

we will limit the plane making to basically wood. The body has to be wood, and it has to be a wood suitable for a hand plane. No pine or poplar or cedar, etc. Extensions like bars, sole mortises, wedges and inlays can be alternative materials if desired.

Please send a PM, even if you post it here.

Same rules as previous swaps
-no posting pictures before your recipient has received the plane.

If you are outside the US, please note that in your PM to me, and tell me were your located

Rhett has made the following offer (Good for 1 new iron only)
If you order a "half-ashed" blade from my site and put "plane swap" in the comments of your order, I will send the blade with the primary bevel already ground and a sandblasted finish. All you would then need do is a quick final honing.

Be Good
Rhett
 
#30 ·
I got you Ian.

At some point, when you've decided what you'll make, send me a PM or email. Please, everyone let me know what you'll be making.

If I don't get a request for what you'd like to receive, I'll assume you don't care.
 
#31 ·
CFrye you wrote, "Thick iron without a chipbreaker, so no need to relieve the ramp to accommodate a screw head."
Um…what did Rhett say?
Very intimidated here but willing to give it a go if translations are provided…(and LOTS of help!) :cool:

When you use a chip breaker, its bolted to the iron. When you bed the iron you need to dado out a groove for the bolt head. When you use a thick iron without a chip breaker, .... no bolt…. so no groove needed.
 
#33 · (Edited by Moderator)
My motivational rant to get everyone going:

"I don't divide the world into the weak and the strong, or the successes and the failures… I divide the world into learners and nonlearners." -Benjamin Barber

Never made a plane before. Never used a wood plane before. Let's do dis. Bring it on.
 
#34 ·
@DonW-Are the categories smoother, jack or jointer, or are they more specific than that?

@BRK-I am motivated by the Barber quote. I've never made a wooden body hand plane before either, but I ain't skeered. Ask me again around October 1 if I am still not skeered though. I expect that this swap will teach me more humility than the marking gauge swap.
 
#41 · (Edited by Moderator)
Maybe I didn't the question correctly. When looking at the end grain on the heel or toe of the plane, should the grain direction be oriented top/bottom or side to side? I have done some reading on this today and it seems the outside of the tree should be the sole so side to side grain or flat sawn?
 
#46 ·
DonW what's a 'chipbreaker'? Is there a glossary of plane terms somewhere? With pictures? I'm a visual learner.

Burgels I'm in. I promise I'll probably ask any question you can think of. If I miss one (out of sheer ignorance, I assure you) you can ask it. Sign me up for the support group as well!

Mauricio I understood what you said. Yay!

Red I may have to print that quote and hang it in the shop, and the office, and the …
 
#51 ·
If at all possible the orientation of the grain should be so the new growth rings face the sole, meaning if you look at the end grain, it would look like a smile, not a frown.

This is what I have been told by some other wooden plane makers. Of course, I was also told it didn't really matter and that grain direction is more important that orientation. The grain should run the direction the plane moves. Think of petting your dog, one way is smooth the other is not.

Also, I should be set up to take payments other than paypal by end of week. Since a few of you guys emailed me saying you wanted blades, but did not have a paypal account. I could set up to sell some ash blanks too, should there be a demand.

Be Good
Rhett