Is there a difference in the performance of the 15" vs a 20". Different size motor, etc.

 

I have 15", maybe not so much because I think it's the "sweet spot" (though many consider that to be true) but more because I was planning on at least one more move after I bought it. Handling a 400+# machine was easily within my abilities….an 800#+ machine, not so much. That aside, I've only ran into a couple of times (I bought mine in 2001) that I actually needed more width, and I was able to work around that fairly easily. Most of the 20" machines have a 5HP motor, so you'll need a 30 amp outlet (at least) for one…and the shop I was in back then only had 20 amp (240V) outlets. But considering your last sentence, it's hard to believe a 15" wouldn't serve you very well, you should consider one. BTW, I don't get to wrapped up in warranties, though they are important to a great many folks…..but that aspect wouldn't enter into the valuation much for me.

 

A friend of mine bought the lugana 20" planer over powermatic because it has more cutters. He says it does a better job than 15" powermatic he use to have. He works part time at the local woodworking store so he has a good idea on what is the best choice.

 

you ll need a 30 amp outlet (at least) for one…

Agreed. I have 220v 20A there now but I have been planning to pull a 100A sub panel anyhow so I can run a Lincoln stick welder.

Is there a difference in the performance of the 15" vs a 20". Different size motor, etc.

I think typically 3HP vs 5HP though I read some 20" in the past had 3HP but they bogged down on wide stock. I wouldn't consider anything below 5HP on a 20" machine.

A friend of mine bought the lugana 20" planer over powermatic because it has more cutters.

I have a Laguna bandsaw, its well built and a lovely tool used with a 3/4" resaw king. Resaws 8" QSWO like butter and while some in the past complained about their customer service. I've had great experiences with their support reps as well as Supermax (now owned by them). Will look into the Laguna model!

 

I have the 15" PowerMatic 15s with the spiral blades (for about 10 years) and it does a great job. I considered changing to the Shelix head but I heard they heads can have some chip out problems with figured wood. My spiral blade seems to handle that just fine. While the flexible spiral blades are almost impossible to sharpen they are durable and changing they is fairly easy….except for the $90 price tag.

 

Though the castings are probably identical ( made by one of the big four) the details will differ. Precision of machining, quality of bearings etc. No guarantee more money gets you those things, but less won't.

 

Owned a bunch of different 13/15" planers over the years. Mostly due I find them abused and forgotten really cheap, and learned how to rebuild them cheap enough to scrape off several hundred $ on resale? Currently own a 24 year old Jet 20". Due my rebuild activity, try to keep up on latest models as I scour for spare parts.

General comments FWIW?

They may all look similar, but they are made in two different factories; one in Taiwan and one in China. Many are using the same Chinese produced castings, or at least castings made in same Chinese factory when there are differences.

There are subtle differences between different models in cutter heads that often get missed?

PM uses a custom spiral mounted blade on the straight blade planer? Felder is only other mfg that uses something similar, but uses different knives. This adds a shear direction on straight knives, and if you believe marketing literature - handles figured grain better without cost of segmented carbide cutters.

Different mfg, use different sources of shelix heads. Best tend to use Byrd, many use a Byrd clone made in Taiwan, cheapest use spiral head with segmented cutters straight to cut line made in China. They all work, and are called segmented helical heads. Have to very carefully study the head design to see difference. The Bryd style heads cut with a shear angle, using a curved edge carbide, and tend to leave a circular scoop on deep cut soft woods. The straight edge spiral heads leave a divot scoop with straight side walls with deep cuts softwoods. Which, When, and Where each is better; has much debate in various forums.

Other key difference between PM and others is quality of components. PM prefers to use only major components made my US OEM. This does not mean the Baldor motor in planer was made in US, just that it is Baldor motor, made in Baldor factory somewhere cheap in Asia. The same applies for magnetic motor starters. PM tends to use starters made by US based Westinghouse, even if the real mfg is TEC in Taiwan. The cheaper folks can used same brand controls, but they are usually made in China with lessor cabinets and heft.

One other comment on planer motors. Some of the cheaper straight blade machines use smaller motor. Some straight blade 20" have only 3HP, while the helical head models need more power and use 5HP+ motors. This easy to see in machine specifications, but is often over looked in value/performance discussions people bring up online?

While the 20" use the same castings most of time, another thing that gets missed with PM is quality of cabinets? They spend extra to provide the curved, and stylish looking cabinets. The ones I have seen, typically use slightly thicker steel. For example; have not seen/heard of a broken motor mount weld with PM, like have on some other older Grizzly/Jet labeled 15" machines?

Whether you think it is a good idea to give PM a lot more money for these better components, and the longer warranty is debatable topic. I have seen cheap Chinese motor/starters still working after 30 years, and others failing in 3 years. The lifetime of a tool is based on usage. So if you tend to use tools every day to make a living, and don't want to be wasting time working on tools; then buying better quality is usually best idea?

Something to think about: 20" planer is a heavy hunk of cast iron?
The 20" machines are physically much heavier than 15". Most 15" four post planers are less than 450lb. The 20" planers are over 800lbs. Have mine mounted on All Terrain Mobile base, like many other tools. It is at limit of what the 1000lb rated mobile base can handle. Don't enjoy moving it around shop, and prefer to keep it in one location as much as possible. Plus if you want to make major repairs; need an overhead crane, or engine lift to pull parts on 20", where I can work solo on 15" if needed.

Hope this helps.
Best Luck on decision!

 

Hope this helps.
Best Luck on decision!

Not sure it helps on the 15 vs 20 but it definitely helps explain the price difference. My upgrade path usually goes like this. I had a delta benchtop jointer I got used, but I outgrew it and upgraded to a used PM50 6" which was lovely but I outgrew that too. The short beds just didn't meet most of my project needs. Finally I settled on the PM 8" Parallelogram with Helical and really I'm quite impressed by the machine. This is one of the reasons I was looking at the PM for a replacement planer. That history is: Delta lunchbox → DW735 → ? but I'll still keep the 735 around its a nice machine when paired with a wixey gauge. Very accurate.

 

Not sure it helps on the 15 vs 20
- DavidG95

What is your debate on size?

The difference is crystal clear to me:
- Do you need 15" or 20" capability?
- Do you have space/power to support larger 5HP 800-900lb 20" machine?
- Can you afford a larger machine?

Everything else about the job they perform in a wood shop is identical. The operation and design is identical. The setup and blade changes are identical. If you want accuracy/repeatability, all need to install a Wixey too.

Other notes FWIW:

Four post planners typically spin cutter head at 8-10K rpm. The induction motors make less noise than universal AC motor on DW735, but are not quiet tools. A shelix head tends to make less noise, but you still need to wear hearing protection, especially while surfacing hard/brittle hardwoods like hickory or dense exotics. Running my planner is only time my neighbors claim they can hear my wood working tools.

Another thing about making your four post planner upgrade; they are high volume industrial tools, intended to run 8hr day, 7 days a week. They can devour a massive amount of wood between blade changes (unlike DW735). They have enough power, the biggest issue with slightly dull blades is more noise, and rougher surface.

There is drawback to owning four post planer: more difficult and lengthy setup/maintenance. Industrial planers have many more adjustments on feed roller heights, roller pressure, chip breaker height, head leveling, etc; that are not required on lunch box planer. They require weekly oiling of feed roller bearing points, and yearly gear box oil changes. If you want learn more, download a users manual.
While the larger planers don't require adjustment very often in a home hobby shop, it takes several hours the 1st few times you do it. If all you know before owning 15/20" is smaller lunch box planer with minimal adjustments; they can be intimidating or even frustrating if you are not mechanically inclined. So having one may not great for everyone?
I am not sorry I dumped my lunch box planer(s) for larger cast iron bed planer. One of best decisions a serious wood worker can make, IMHO. If you are tired of dealing with fragile DW735 knives, you will be even more glad you upgraded.

YMMV

 

- Do you need 15" or 20" capability?

Need is a relative term. Either would be a nice upgrade.

- Do you have space/power to support larger 5HP 800-900lb 20" machine?

My shop is about 800sq feet but everything is on wheels, so while space is at a premium I roll things around and make due. If the 20" is significantly better choice then I'd sacrifice some space for its ability. Power is no issue.

- Can you afford a larger machine?

yes.

but you still need to wear hearing protection

I am never without PPE. Safety squints don't save eyes.

more difficult and lengthy setup/maintenance.

I'm pretty obsessive about first time setup, leveling, etc. I got my 19/38 so it doesn't leave a line when sanding wider than the open end. Any new large tool which comes in the shop I hours tweaking because I fully believe that first time setup pays off. Then over time I recheck, re-level, wax tables, etc. The normal gig. Is why I chose the parallelogram jointer, to ease precision adjustments if (when) the tables need it.