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Making Router Templates

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SuburbanDon

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi, I am curious about methods people use to make router templates, particularly ones with small irregular curves.

What is the best way to get a nice smooth curve without too much hand sanding ? A spokeshave ?

Is hardboard the best thing to use ?

I really fall down when it comes to curved edges. I end up sanding too much and the result still looks like a bad high school project.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I draw all my shapes on the computer, print off page tiles and spray adhesive them down onto 6mm mdf before cutting on the outside of the line with a jigsaw using a blade made for curves.
Clean up is minimal though some sanding remains, for inside curves I have a small set of drums used in a power drill, outside curves get a quick buzz with a 1/4 sheet palm sander.
It's not let me down yet.
 
#3 ·
I've used 1/8" hardboard on the few (small) templates that I've made. For sanding I use my Dremel as a small spindle sander - chuck in the 1/2" diameter sanding drum, load the Dremel into its router base, and clamp it in the bench vise with the drum pointing up. The router base gives me a small table, and sanding to the line is usually pretty quick and easy.
 
#4 ·
Hardboard or 1/4" ply (I use MDF core ply for stability). Big trick for templates is to be sure that the offset for the guides is considered in the design of the template. Making "fair" curves can be best done (designed) using FAIRING STICK. It is just a thin board that can be bent to the curve desired and held in place by string. Google it. There are also those available made from a bendable material that will
hold the desired curve for tracing onto the workpiece. I just prefer to make my own.
I often hold the template to the workpiece with double sided tape when routing.
Bill
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
I use 1/4" polycarbonite (plexiglass) for my templates. I bought a 4X8 sheet a while back when I needed to make a bunch of drawer dividers and the left over has kept me in router templates for a while.

As far as getting good curved lines, it is a function of using the right tools. If you are hand drawing them, a compass works well. I usually draw on large plotter paper and then glue it with 3M spray 90 adhesive right to the plexi for cutting. I sometimes will print a complex pattern from AutoCAD and glue that to the plexiglass.

After transferring your pattern, it is about being carefull when cutting and sanding the template. You can afford to spend some extra time here so the resulting pattern will be near perfect and can be used many times over.
 
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#6 ·
The only template I've made is for 1/2" dovetails for the router. I used some 3/8" thick Lexan( don't ask where it came from) and drilled out and bandsawed to shape.
 
#9 ·
Lately I've been using 1/4" mdf melamine. If the curve is to complicated to draw directly on the mdf I'll draw it in CAD, print it out, and spray adhesive to the board. Then I trim on the bandsaw the best I can and start sanding. First I use the drill press drum and then go to work by hand. Lastnight when making one I used a thin (ie flexible) piece of stock to back my sand paper which helped a lot with smoothing. Previously I've used router collars but I'm going to try a pattern bit tonight which I expect to work fine and not have to deal with the offset issue.
 
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#10 ·
+1 on the fairing stick. Those French curve thingys from the office supply are also helpful for us that can't draw. I cut close to the line with a bandsaw and then sand to the line with the oscillating spindle sander.
 
#12 ·
The first teplate i make will be mdf or masonite. Then if it something im going to use alot I will take it to the macine shop and have it ade of of alum. If it something that get moderate use I make it of of 1/4 plexi. I cut them out on the bs and get close to the line then file and/or snd til it id perfect.
 
#13 ·
Just to add, with a few of my templates where positioning is critical, I draw up the template in corel draw and send it to my acrylic supplier and have them laser cut a 1/4" template with etched center lines for me. Works great as long as you remember to set the depth correctly and not gouge your brand new template.

It only happened once…
 
#14 ·
High-Density white, polyethelyne panels. "Puckboard" Comes in 1/8, 1/4 , 1/2 thickness. Can ce cut easily with saws, planes very well.
Can be purchased at local farm supply stores (Used a lot in the farm industry)
 
#15 ·
Hardboard or 1/4" MDF, here. Cut to within 1/8" of the pattern line (I use a band saw or scroll saw) then clean up with a Rigid oscillating drum/belt sander. Most of my patterns are used on an over arm pin router so offset isn't a concern. If using a collar, you need to figure the offset when making the paper pattern
 
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#17 ·
I just purchased a 3D printer. I now design my templates in a CAD software and then print out the template on my printer. I'm open for business if anyone wants me to print them a custom template. My print bed is 10" x 10". Just e-mail me at NSA.Puppets.Rex@yousq.net.

Thanks!
 
#20 ·
Old thread but a good question!

I'll use 1/4" hardboard if that is all I need, thinner is better for easier shaping. If I need something thicker, depending on the use I'll go for BB plywood or MDF and use the thin template to route out the thick one.

Basically you should only need to make a thin template and use that.

For shaping, I'll use a bandsaw saber saw, or jig saw to cut "close to the line" and then shape with rasps, files, and finally sandpaper. If there is a set radius curve, I'll use Forstner bits for the holes, then cut the adjacent blending curves and fitness the contours.
 
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