tilting shelves, is this a good idea?

Loren

12,617 posts · Joined 2008

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#2 · May 25, 2018 (Edited by Moderator)

I would add diagonal gussets on either side of
the legs and make the feet at least 16" long,
maybe longer. Sometimes this is done with
a plywood triangle.

Sandpaper adhered to the mating surfaces will
provide an enhanced grip. All you need for
threaded rod is something like wingnuts or
knobs for the ends and some fender washers
to suppress denting of the wood when they
are tightened hard. Another way to do
it involves a sort of trunnion with a pivot pin
on one side and a curved slot on the other
for the rod or bolt to pass through. This way
when clamped down the ends are supported
at two points instead of one.

 

F

fuigb

539 posts · Joined 2010

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#3 · May 26, 2018

@OP, you want tilting shelves, not tilted shelves? Why do you need the variability that comes with shelves that are not fixed? Permanent instead of variable will be easier to construct.

 

John Smith_inFL

5,804 posts · Joined 2017

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#4 · May 26, 2018 (Edited by Moderator)

a tilting shelf sounds like a good idea.
what will you be putting on the shelves in your "studio" ??

I would use the T-Nut to anchor into the wood.

Edit:
I just remembered that I have a similar project you may be interested in.
it is a rolling stand for a plotter made with 1×4 oak lumber.
it has been in open storage for several years and the finish is gone,
all dusty and dirty with some water stains. after some cleaning, sanding
and refinishing, it will be put back into service.
this idea could be adapted to accommodate shelves and castors if you wanted them.
the bottom base stand is 1×4x26" and quite steady and will support a 30 pound plotter with ease.
(the top shelf that holds the plotter will be 14" deep and 28" long).
[I won't be using the castors, as once the plotter is in place, it is hardly ever moved from that spot].

this is what the modern store-bought version looks like (all metal).

.

 

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LesB

3,286 posts · Joined 2008

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#5 · May 26, 2018

A little more info would be helpful. Will the pricy stuff be heavy? Not knowing what sort of items you intend to display have you come up with a way to stop them from sliding off then the shelf is tilted?

I would definitely use a threaded insert as indicated in the above answer.

I have some concern about the shelf not being held firmly with only a single point of support. So I would suggest adding an additional support in the form of an adjustable angle brace as indicated with the red lines in the pict below.
The alternative would be some sort of ratchet socket built into the rotation point that would lock in at preset stops.

 

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MNgary

314 posts · Joined 2011

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#6 · May 27, 2018

I would make the feet longer than the shelf depth. 2×4 could be adequate for the feet. Just a suggestion, but I would attach a thin (quarter inch) 3 inch wide by 1 and 1/2 inch deep pad under front and back ends of the feet. This will minimize rocking if on an uneven floor.

 

wormil

11,255 posts · Joined 2011

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#7 · May 27, 2018

I think you need to up size the sides from 2×4 to 1×6 or 2×6 depending on the weight, maybe even 1×8. Not because 2×4 aren't strong enough but I think you'll need additional friction and support. Be picky about the lumber because you don't want it warping in a few months and dumping the shelf contents. On the whole, if the stuff is valuable, I think this a bad idea unless you know what you're doing.

 

wichman3

388 posts · Joined 2016

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#8 · May 27, 2018

If I were doing this I would;
1. use a half circle of plywood to support each shelf and brace the legs.
a. using half circle on each shelf and the legs would keep the visual elements the same.
b. on the adjustable tilt shelf I would cut a semi circular slot near the curved edge, then add another threaded bolt to the leg at the slot, this would allow a clamping mechanism with greater leverage than just the one at the pivot point.
c. the half circle would be flat side up on the selves and flat side down on the legs.
d. additional designs could be cut into each half circle to enhance the appearance of the unit. (spokes, scrollwork, routed figures, etc.
e. to maximize structural strength on the legs, use a single piece to brace the legs, fasten the brace to the cross members then to the leg.
f. If you plan the length of the slot, you could use it as a limiter of just how much tilt the shelf can have.
For a 36" wide shelf I would use no less than a 24" half circle with the slot 2" in from the curved edge.