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drilling in REALLY tight space: 4 inches

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OxfordChipper

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Again, thanks again in advance for your help.

I am attempting to repair an oak child's rocker that my father made for my children when they were young. The chair is constructed almost entirely with dowels. The dowels holding the first seat slat have broken.

My problem: In order to repair the chair I need to be able to drill out the remnants of the dowels in the body of the chair (to use dowels) or be able to drill pilot holes (using screws and plugs). In either case I only have 4 inches between the body of the chair and the arm.

I know that a right angle drill or attachment is what is needed. I have an attachment but it's too big. I've searched online and haven't found anything that can hold a drill bit or doesn't cost hundreds of dollars.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Hopefully this picture will make it clear what I am dealing with.

Image


Thanks!!!
 
#2 ·
#4 ·
Here is a small right angle attachment

www.homedepot.com

DEWALT MAXFIT Right Angle Magnetic Attachment DWARA60 - The Home Depot

Grab a resourceful and versatile addition to your jobsite with the selection of this extra ordinary DEWALT MAXFIT Right Angle Magnetic Attachment.
www.homedepot.com

or a flexible attachment such as

www.homedepot.com

RYOBI 11 in. Flexible Shaft Bit Holder A10FB1G - The Home Depot

Give a sturdy look to your dwelling by choosing this RYOBI Flexible Shaft Bit Holder. Magnetic bit holder keeps fasteners and bits secure while driving.
www.homedepot.com
 
#6 ·
If you don't want to buy an adapter you'll use once, you might try a tap handle and a drill bit. While slow, you might be able to hog out enough material that you can get the hole clean enough to insert new dowels. I suggest a tap handle because you get a t shaped handle rather than trying to turn a bit with a pair of pliers. Some auger bits already have a square shaft, but will probably be too long for the task. If a round bit spins, you could try a bit with a hex shaft like those designed for an impact driver.

Good luck! Please let us know what you end up doing and if you are successful.
 
#8 ·
Good suggestions above, but here is an alternative in case you already have the parts on hand:

My partner's Dremel tool came with an accessory flexible shaft. If you have something like that, then you can use it to drill the pilot holes. If you have a rotary tool like that, you can find accessory flexible shafts for it. Make sure you have a chuck or collet for it to hold the drill bits.

P.S. I would use it with some kind of drill guide to make sure the drill bits run straight and true. You might make drill guides from scrapwood (they wear quickly) or use a metal one.
 
#13 ·
I'd use a right angle drilladapter.
But NOT a Ryobi drill bit, or any other cheap drill. And not a long one.
Ryobi bits are from my experience brittle with more snap than a dry forest twig.
If the bit breaks in the process you've introduced another far more serious problem.
Same with those combined countersink bits.
You don't have easy access so any sideways force could spell disaster.

I would use a suitably long wood screw with a square head. Think they're Robertson screw over your way.
You might then find it easier to drill in. Personally I have trouble using posidrive, philips head screws.
The weight is straight down so it's not load bearing.
But something obviously made it give way.
Did it get lifted by the front slat?
Obviously need to plug the hole in the slat or make new slat. Might have trouble matching finish with latter.
Plug would need to be next size up or cut a square recess and matching plug about ½ depth of slat.
Would an exposed screw head trouble you?

Other alternative, make matching piece predrilled, clamp in place and drill out the dowel in the base piece and reinsert a new dowel.
Not much room to play with and that mayn't work?
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
All,

I didn't know about stubby quick change drill bits and low profile right angle adapters. They were a perfect solution. I purchased both (see below) and I was in business.

The slat itself wasn't broken, only the dowels, and there were stubs of the dowels left in the chair body. I was able to punch out the dowels from the slat, use the stubs to orient the slat, and use the slat as a guide to drill out the body. Easy peasy.

FWIW, I purchased a Milwaukee Shock Wave right angle adapter 48-32-2390 and Neiko quick change stubby brad point drill bits, both from Amazon.

Milwaukee adapter ($25)

Neiko stubby drill bits ($13)

Thanks again!!!
 
#19 ·
Hmmm, the 2 options I have on hand...
Image

Angled drill at one time, was for drilling rivet holes in WW2 Bombers..and the Hammerhead is set up for drywall in tight spots...
Image

Jacobs Chuck with an 0 chuck key....
Image

From back of the head to the tip of the bit? 4"

I seem to recall that DeWalt also made a version of the Cordless "Hammerhead" drill/driver...
 
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