LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

PLEDGE the problems with

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

roman

· Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi

I hope that some out there have an answer for my problem. ..........PLEDGE. The furniture polish in a spray can that every one seems to love, including my significant other. Personally I have banned it from my home and anything I do for any one else, I put a disclaimer on my product, that in the event they use pledge, the the warrenty on the finish is null and void.

It's a great polish but, everyu single piece of furniture that I have stripped and tried to re-finish….&^%$@#%$3, I curse it. Fish eye every where. In an open grainwood like oak, ash etc…......if I know pledge has been used I wont even bother trying. yes, scuff it, soak it with mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, take it down to the raw wood….............FISH EYE every where.

Does any one have a solution to this? I've tried eveything in my arsenol to no avail. tried scuffing and putting ayrlic water based paint…....it fish eyes, water based acryilic urathane…..fish eye, shellac…..fish eye,....varnish…....fish eye

How do you get, what ever chemical compound thats in Pledge, out and off the wood?.............I assume its silicone that is causing the problem?

Thanks you in advance
 
#5 ·
How about a drastic approach? A propane torch and then re-sanding? That should burn everything out.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#7 ·
Roman I pulled the MSDS on Pledge and it contains 1-5 parts silicone in mineral oil etc..
That's a finishers nightmare.
The mineral oil will wick it right down into the wood wherever the surface is exposed.

Bob
 
#8 ·
roman,
sounds like silicon is the problem. I have had this same problem with Automotive finishes when Armor All is used. Go to an automotive paint dealer, I think they will have a solvent to get rid of it.

It is a royal pain the the ardvark.

Dave
 
#10 ·
pledge is furniture poison.

If the wood was finished correctly the first time, it would not have soaked in… If not.. good luck. You may need to use a silicone remover first… hard to say..
 
#11 ·
From what I have seen, washing it with a "GOOD" degreaser will remove it. Then from there I will strip the furniture down to bare. Wash with TSP then let it dry. After this I will use a sealer and then onto the stain or other finish. So far I have not had anyproblem with fish eye's showing up.
 
#12 ·
Agreed with the above. The silicone is your nemesis, Two easy solutions: Silicone remover from an auto paint supplier as stated above, or give a can of non-chloronated brake cleaner (Crappy tire) a shot. It seems to remove all traces of oil and silicone, costs about 5 bucks a can, eveaporates almost instantly and will not affect the wood whatsoever. It's used to clean brake rotors of the greasy/oily/silicone laden fingerprints of the mechanics after beiing installed. It's one of those wonder chemicals that I've made a stock item in my shop. Also works great to remove oil stains from fabric/upholstery ;)

Ryan
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#13 ·
Are you trying to do a topcoat finish, like a lacquer or a straight poly?

What if you tried using an oil-based finish that didn't give a top coat, like a few thinner coats of BLO/thinner/poly (satin)? It isn't a finish that sits on top of the wood, so it wouldn't really give the opportunity for the fish eyes to pop out…
 
#15 ·
Silicone… that would explain why a little overspray on the floor is deadly for stockinged feet! (or for someone who unknowingly had their stairs "cleaned and dusted" with it.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well, I thank each and everyone for their input. Seems like "silicone" is the consesus on the problem.

Not all lacquers are chemically compatable with each other, not are all lacquer thinners are compatable with all lacquers, I suppose the chemists must do their majic to keep all employed.

For info only. This particular piece of furniture is mine, made for me, by me,....... soooo. It was stained, and lacquered with enough coats of lacquer (+ one) to make absolutly sure that it was finished right the first time, to seal ALL the wood …..........I never cheap out on coats required to "cover" the wood. That said, I want to sell it and the knotty pine looks "dated". I knew that my other half used pledge but regardless this rather nice armoir has to go…..............so I thought I would paint the whole thing black, be it paint, glaze, tint, NGR and then take the black off all the corners/edges leaving a small 1/16" line of natural wood and I digress…..whatever but small tests of various methods showed otherwise…..........fish eye.

I copied and pasted the ideas above, into a file on "finsihing". Tomorrow I can use (and thank you) the idea of the "automotive paint shops" because they are most likely the same folk who run into the same problems and in all likelyhood, they just might have a chemical solution to the chemical problem.

I did try today, with reasonably good success, of sanding and scuffing the living &%$#@ out of the armoir, washing it down with lacquer thinners and wiping it down immediatly with dry, clean rags and, let it dry. Followed by spraying it with acrylic outdoor (watered down 50%) latex paint…......dry…..top coat with indoor water based poly acrylic varnsih. I stress 'limited" success because all it really takes is one single stinking &^%$#@&% "fish eye" to ruin it.

I think the automotive finishing industry and the furniture finishing industry are similar in many ways thus my tendency to hope they might have an answer

Once again…................thank you for the ideas, if there are more then bring them on
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Naptha…........thanks, another one that slipped by my fading memory. I've had succss with it too in the past.

It worked on an antigue wooden boat where the hull had to be painted but the oil from 50+ years of inboard motor prevented adhesion. One guy sprayed a heavy coat of Naptha, the next guy follwed slightly behind. The naptha pushed away the oil, long enough for the paint to bond.
 
#20 ·
roman

It is in fact the silicone in Pledge that is causing your problem. You have a couple options. I would first try getting as much of the silicone up & out of the surface by wiping it down with either mineral spirits or naptha using a clean cloth. Let that dry and do it again with a different clean cloth. Do this several times, each time with a new clean cloth. The idea is to try to wick up as much of the silicone as you can. When you are done, now I would recommend sealing the surface with white dewaxed shellac. Let that dry and then do whatever finish layers, etc. that you want on top of that.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
About this Discussion
26 Replies
19 Participants
Last post:
roman
LumberJocks Woodworking Forum
posts
2.5M
members
128K
Since
2006
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Blogs Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories Woodworking Skill Share Off Topic Coffee Lounge Hand Tools