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JustLikeJames

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I am interested in a precision straight edge for machine setups and reference. I can't justify the expense of a Starrett brand. Fwiw, I have a Johnson 48" long alum ruler that is so straight I can't imagine much difference. The problem is it doesn't stand on edge very well. I happened to find this item on ebay for just $45, guaranteed straight within .005" over the 50" length. Compared to Starrett prices, it seems too good to be true. Has anyone ever use one of these?

Any advice?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Sorry about that. The first link was from a pc. I added one that was for mobile devices. Thanks for letting me know.

I tried to follow the link but it just shows shaving stuff.
Alot of woodworkers including me have the lee valley steel straight edges.http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56676&cat=1,240,45313,56676
See if this link works.

Aj

- Aj2
I tried to follow the link but it just shows shaving stuff.
Alot of woodworkers including me have the lee valley steel straight edges.http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56676&cat=1,240,45313,56676
See if this link works.

Aj

- Aj2
I tried to follow the link but it just shows shaving stuff.
Alot of woodworkers including me have the lee valley steel straight edges.http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56676&cat=1,240,45313,56676
See if this link works.

Aj

- Aj2
 
I have used other instruments from Taylor and PEC. Very high quality material. I have not purchased a straight edge from them however. I have purchased a combination square and a machinist precision square. Both are excellent.
 
Taylor Toolworks is a distributor and doesn't manufacture any of the stuff they sell. They have great customer service and stand behind what they sell. They state a tolerance on the straightedge so, if it doesn't meet that spec, I have no doubt they'll replace it or issue a refund. No experience with any aluminum straightedge but, for occasional use, it should be more than sufficient. However, if you're going to use it regularly on steel and cast iron, don't expect it to last forever because eventually it'll start to wear.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks. I would use this for reference only, not frequently, and I'd treat it with kid gloves.

Taylor Toolworks is a distributor and doesn t manufacture any of the stuff they sell. They have great customer service and stand behind what they sell. They state a tolerance on the straightedge so, if it doesn t meet that spec, I have no doubt they ll replace it or issue a refund. No experience with any aluminum straightedge but, for occasional use, it should be more than sufficient. However, if you re going to use it regularly on steel and cast iron, don t expect it to last forever because eventually it ll start to wear.

- HokieKen
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I have used a small spring clamp at each end to stand it up also. That's how I set up my table saw but I didn't get it perfect. I was just interested in having a true "master" (so to speak) straight edge that I could really trust for when I get ambitious and try to tune it a little better. Also, I use it all the time and it's inevitable that I'll drop it at some point. I've been given a couple options here that are all much more affordable than Starrett. I've even learned that Empire levels are milled to pretty good precision. Not spec'd as accurate as these other options, but in a pinch it could work.

If you like what you have why don t you just cut a slot in two pieces of wood that the rule will sit in. So the rule will be on its edge and the wood will hold it up edge.

- diverlloyd
 
FWIW, levels are too thick to be used as true straight edges. They can hide areas where light would show through on a narrower surface. Not saying they aren't good enough for what you may need it for, just something to consider.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
That is a good point. That's why I don't use my level like that, because the light doesn't get under very well. I am surprised at how straight Empire grinds them though.

FWIW, levels are too thick to be used as true straight edges. They can hide areas where light would show through on a narrower surface. Not saying they aren t good enough for what you may need it for, just something to consider.

- HokieKen
 
HK is correct about levels, but I ve used them successfully with backlighting and feeler gauges.

- rwe2156
That works really well, the highest precision hand scraped camel back cast iron straight edges are wide like levels. The Starrett steel ones are thin and not meant to be stood up on edge.
A really good Starrett straight edge should probably not be used for everything as it will get beat up, but one can be used to check lesser straight edges. Most often an aluminum straight edge can be corrected with a fine tooth file if one has a known good edge to compare.
I have a Starrett 36" straight edge that has some rust spots and company name engraved, ugly but straight I found for $45. I went used and slightly abused.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the replies. Given my low budget, I think I may just use a good level with backlight. I need one anyways.
Believe it or not, I have a piece of old melamine shelving that I use for reference of how true my regular straitedges are. It's kinda silly, but I swear it's darn near perfect. I use it as a guide for edge jointing with my router too. It's just too awkward to use for machine setup.
It would really be interesting to take one of the high dollar straightedges and see how good the melamine really is.
But I digress…
 
No spitting.
I bought a cheap Harbor Freight 48 straight edge and could not find any deviation with my feeler gauges ( 0.003" minimum).
I tried it in the store aligning several of them to the one I chose on both sides and it worked all good. More than enough for any woodworking stuff.
 
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