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A new look for an old workhorse.........!!

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33K views 28 replies 20 participants last post by  gleasoncraftworks  
#1 ·
A new look for an old workhorse.........!!

Greetings all:
I've had this old Sears contractor saw for 26 years, and it served me well, and still serving me well. After about a week of having it, I knew it was time for a new make-over then. So I took off the old "diamond" wings, (I hated them things..pinched my fingers everytime I used the saw), removed the crappy fence, and went on a "search and destroy" mission. After checking around for the best fence that would fit the saw, I settled on a Delta Precision SawGuide w/ 30" rip capacity. After getting the new fence, it was time to build left and right outfeed tables. The left table was standard… 12" x 27 ".... The right was 25 1/2" x27". Both were MDF and laminated. These old saws didn't have any left of the sawblade cutting back then, so this was perfect. The onlt thing I didn't change was the old crappy metal legs that came with it (I wish I had of then).
This sucker was dead-on accurate for all that time, and still is today…... But, after 26 years it was time to update. So last July I bought a new '09 5 h.p. Delta Unisaw w/ 52" r.c…. this sucker's a beast. All the while I was still using my old Sears for dados and rabbits. Works great… When I finally got caught up this winter on some customer projects, I looked at the saw and said" it's time for a make-over. So I took everything off, stripped it down to nothing but the saw body, and started…. First thing I did was design a set of cabinets, and how they would fit. One thing I had to keep in mind was that the saw couldn't be any higher than the outfeed table for my new saw, since it's backed up to it to use that table. After much calculations and head-scratching, and knowing it had to be at least 1/4-- 1/2" LOWER than the o.f. table, I went to work.
I built 3 seperate cabinets, all out of 3/4" B.B ply. They had to be the same height and depth as the saw body.
Two of the cabinets are the same.. the left and middle, but the right one was bigger to handle the o.f. table.
Ovewr-all dimensions are 20" deep, and 60" long. The first thing I built was a roll-around support platform w/ 3"
locking casters, w/ a support grid underneath to support the weight of the saw, only…. Cabinets are 19 1/2" high x 20" deep. The middle cabinet is for dust collection. I cut a hole the same size as the opening in the sawbody to let the sawdust fall into a pull-out drawer, and left a wide lip to mount the sawbody onto. No dust collection hook-up for this one….. All drawers have full extention slides, except the sawdust collection drawer
(it has a false front on top), and I just pull the drawer out, empty it, and slide it back in….. works good.
The back is completely enclosed to contain sawdust since I don't tilt it for anything. All the wood trim is maple, and has 3 coats of Tung oil finish….. I had needing to do this for a long time, and finally got around to it during the winter. Didn't mean to drag this out so long, but wanted to give a good explanation of how it's built…..
Thanks for looking, and if you feel the need to build one of these, go for it…....... If you have any questions, just PM me, and I'll try to answer them…...

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#8 ·
Greetings Marc5:....... Thanks, Marc for the comment….. I kinda like it too…...
I certainly don't mind at all. Use some or all of it if you like.
I got the idea from a couple of different sources myself, so it's not original.
One pixs I didn't post was of the support base…I forgot to show it.
It has a torsion box construction which gives it good support of the sawbody.
That's really the only real weight on the base….... therefore no sag or give….
If you build one, I think you'll be real happy with it… I know I am…......
 
#9 ·
One thing I like is lots of photos from all angles and you delivered my friend. I like the toe kick being under the saw so you can get close when you want. I usually dance around the after market rollers and rails I put on mine. That's a great do it yourself project…..
 
#10 ·
Brilliant blog. I'm a firm believer that old faithfulls should be reworked in this fashion. Its served you well now you've done the same for the saw. Well done on the project.

Martyn
 
#11 ·
Greetings Martyn:.... Thanks….. I guess I just like to talk too much, but I also think that blogs and projects need some good description, along with pixs, and a good explanation of how the work was done… that leaves nothing to be desired from the reader…... I say give them the works…. lol.. I want to see it all when I read about something I like… These one-liners don't cut it for me: " Ok, here's my project" just ain't gonna get it…..
 
#13 ·
Greetings all,
A little update on something that happened last night….. I was watching the Cardinals play the Padres last night, the phone rang, but I didn't answer it, cause I let the answering machine kick in. The message said" I would like to buy your tablesaw station if you would be interested in selling it. I saw it on Lumberjocks, and since you have two, thought maybe you'd sell that one". When I looked at the number, there was none….
It said "not provided", and all zeros for the number….. very strange, indeed. I figured they had to be a LJ, but the call puzzled me. So…. I am wondering if any of you guys (or gals) called, and if so why didn't you give a name and number so I could call you back? I've never had a call like that before…. very very strange, indeed.
 
#16 ·
I am curious about the fixtures on the base to secure it to the floor while using the saw. I couldn't make it out too well in the photos as to how they work. Can you direct me to a catalog source? I'm designing a similar kind of rolling cabinet and wanted to be able to secure it to the floor during use.

Very nice shop cabinet. I love it when someone builds nice shop fixtures.
 
#19 ·
Just found this and wish I had seen it sooner, made a cabinet for similar use for my Cman saw. Looking at yours I see some improvements I could retrofit. But I wish I had made mine not quite as deep as it currently is, I have to reach far to raise and lower blade, as I set it around 10 inches back from front face of cabinet. Will definitely be bracing underneath with levelers like you did as soon as in can get to it, was a weak point in my design, possible sag over time. And I made a ramp with a dust collection port in Middle section, which isnt very effective, so i may go in and try the drawer idea, possibly leaving the chute to pull some of the dust out.
 
#21 ·
Hi Rick, I know this post is old to you but I just stumbled across it. I have this saw, model 113.299315, with the original XL-2412 fence, purchased new some years ago, was about to list it, as I just replaced it with a new-to-me Delta 10" right tilt cabinet saw with a Unifence. Now you have me rethinking getting rid of my old Sears saw! I had grown very unhappy with it, not realizing it had just been too long since I'd given it a thorough tune up. This setup looks absolutely fantastic though, & I might have to give this a second thought. Perhaps I should be cursing you instead, my shop space is so small; I'm trying to redesign it all now.
And thank you for your detail, I so much appreciate it!
Mark Baker
 
#22 ·
Rick,

Great work! I intend to make one just like it this weekend, and I'm currently gathering my materials. I have one question: how did you attach the table tops to the saw? I've been looking closely at the pictures, but there isn't a good view.

Any thoughts from others with this kind of experience, as well?

Thanks,
Jared
 
#23 ·
Jared,

I sent you a PM, but you can see how i assembled the tops to the saw body….Just Maple frames, and bolted the frame and tops to the saw, once I got the holes lined up…...I did this make-over back in the 90's, so I had to remember how I did it…..!!!
 
W
#24 ·
I recently bought a home and with it came an old table saw and I've since acquired a few other woodworking tools. I'm a novice but I am really learning a lot and am getting into it and have already started making things for family members. I've posting because the saw I have is an old Craftsman and I'd really like to do this exact project. My question is how do I go about finding a new fence. The one I have has the wings missing and your project is exactly what I want to do versus buying a new saw. What info do I need to find the correct fence and those tracks on the side to lock it down. I'm sure there's a name for them but I'm that new! Any response would be greatly appreciated!
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#26 ·
Whopua,

I am in the same boat as you are. I'm building this table to use with an 1960's Craftsman table saw, and only last night I found a decent fence for it. The rails (the tracks on the side) should be sold together with most fences, although some, like high-end Biesemeyer's, sell the rails and fences separately so you can get the length you need.

I found a posting on Craigslist locally where a guy was selling the fence and rails straight out of the box of his brand new cabinet saw. He already had an aftermarket fence system that he was going to continue using on his new saw. I paid $100 for it still wrapped in plastic. I had been looking for a long time before I found that deal.

As for matching the rails to your saw…you may need to drill holes unless you find a Craftsman fence system. As far as I know, all C-man fence systems will fit all C-man saws, but, be warned, the cheaper saws come with some really crappy fences/rails. The higher level saws come with decent ones, though. Most people seem to stand by the Delta T2 fence as being the best bang for buck, and until I bought this one last night, that was going to be my choice as well. Alternatively, the fences/rails from Ridgid saws are really good as well, and they may directly mount to your C-man without modification.

For reference, here is an Instructables page detailing how to install the Delta:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Retrofitting-A-Delta-T2-Fence-to-a-Craftsman-Table/?ALLSTEPS

Good luck!
Jared
 
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