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Marine Corps Naval cannon project

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Blog series by Trapper brandenburger updated 07-28-2016 08:11 PM 7 parts 10113 reads 29 comments total

Part 1: Cannon project information and getting started.

06-23-2016 10:25 PM by Trapper brandenburger | 11 comments »

I’ve received an exciting project recently that I will update as it gets completed. The cannon was made in 1844 by Daniel Treadwell, and is property of the US Navy and will be place in front of the Marine HQ building on base here at the Yorktown Naval Weapons Station. My job will be to prep and paint the cannon and build a carriage for it to sit on. The carriage needs to match the company emblem so it won’t be historically correct. With that said my wood choices are unlimited. ...

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Part 2: The Brass

07-14-2016 03:03 PM by Trapper brandenburger | 3 comments »

I’ve received the brass hardware back from blasting and polishing. Now I can start cutting and laying out pieces for the carriage! I’ve spoken to several retired navy sailors and found out that people would take spent shells and or parts from decommission ships and cast them into other parts. So WM.C. Capehart was probably the person that made the cast pattern and the U.S.S. Vulcan was a repair ship that served beginning in the 1940’s and was scrapped in 2006. Here is the Wi...

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Part 3: Cannon prep

07-21-2016 04:59 PM by Trapper brandenburger | 4 comments »

Well still not a whole lot of woodworking yet. I spent two days removing old paint and loose rust with a needler and wire wheel. After that I coated the surface with ospho to convert the rust to clean metal. Then I put the cannon in a mock up cradle and took some more measurements. Finally I hung the cannon up for primer and paint. !https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/Paint removal. Cleaned up and putting ospho on. Fresh coat of ospho. Cured ospho and placed in moc...

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Part 4: Trunnion mounts

07-22-2016 10:37 PM by Trapper brandenburger | 4 comments »

Finally getting to some wood working today. I was able to cut out the radius where the trunion mounts will set. I cut lots of slits up to the radius line on our big band saw and then removed the excess with a jig saw that had a ten inch blade on it. Then smoothed it all out with a rasp and drum sander attached to a drill. Once the brass hardware fit the way I wanted it to I marked the holes and drilled them out part way on the drill press as it only plunges 6 inches. I went the rest of the wa...

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Part 5: Fitting hardware and mortising out crossmembers.

07-25-2016 08:21 PM by Trapper brandenburger | 3 comments »

It doesn’t seem like it but I put in a long day and got a lot done. I put the main runners together and fit the hardware. Then measured again and did some layout work. I was then able to cut the cross members. Once I had that done I started to cut out the main runners to accept the crossmembers. These will be all threaded as well as glued. Any members have any tips for boring thru main runners and cross members? The paint turned out really nice.

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Part 6: Another boring adventure.

07-26-2016 08:57 PM by Trapper brandenburger | 3 comments »

Today I finished up mortising the crossmember in and bored them for all thread. (Thanks for the tip tblank). I also routered a groove in the elevation platform for the elevation wedge to slide on. Then I did a dry fit of everything. I have a few other things to do on this project but I should be able to start glueing tomorrow! Elevation platform and wedge. Here I am marking the main runners for boring be taping this all thread thru my crossmember. Time to test fit! Front Rear

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Part 7: Glue up and test fit.

07-28-2016 08:11 PM by Trapper brandenburger | 1 comment »

Yesterday and today were big days. Our shop welder made some steel plates and tapped & died some holes to receive the 1/2” all thread. I mortised out an area for them to go on the bottom of the top main runner. Then I glued the main runners together and let them cook over night. Today I put everything together and test fit the cannon in the carriage. Fit like a glove! I did have to notch out the elevation plate so it would sit lower. I also cut down the elevation wedge to make the c...

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