Laguna 8" Parallelogram Jointer co-planer table adjustments

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Blog entry by whope posted 04-10-2020 12:20 PM 492 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I’ve had my Laguna 8” parallelogram jointer for 3 1/2 years and decided that I should see if it needed adjusting. I’ve been mostly happy with the performance (my review), even though I man-handled it getting it off the pallet. I ordered a Veritas 38” straightedge. The 50” would have been nicer, but for more than double the price for an extra 12” (and I just spent a lot of $ on ordering a new table saw), I decided 38” would be fine. I also picked up a feeler gauge set.

The Baileigh manual that came with my tool mentions which nuts are for table adjustments and that there are some lock screws. And that’s it. The Laguna manual that I found online made no mention of any adjustment to the table heights. I took a look at the manual for their 12” tool and it basically made the same comment as the Baileigh manual I had.

Time to search YouTube. Laguna will produce extensive videos for some of their machines, but apparently not on the ‘commodity’ tools. I did find a video for the Grizzly and a friend forwarded one for the Powermatic.

I also contacted Laguna and a day later, one of their service reps called me and he answered a couple of remaining questions.

I found the Grizzly video to be the best. I left the fence in place and only removed the cutter guard by loosening the two bolts that hold the steel mounting plate to the in-feed table with a 14mm open box wrench. Then the mounting plate lifts up and off the bolts. The set screws on the Laguna are under the black plastic caps recessed into the top of the tables. I used a knife to dig them out. The best way was to nick a piece of the plastic up and using that to pull the caps out of the hole. They come out fairly easily.

On the Laguna, there isn’t a lock screw on top of the set screw. There’s only one (two were mentioned in the Grizzly video). I loosened the set screw with a 5/32 hex wrench.

I started off by leveling the out-feed table to the cutter head. The best place I found was behind the knives.

I found that I just needed to lower the front edge a little bit. I then raised the out-feed table so that the straightedge would clear the cutter head. I had a 5-pound weight that I used to anchor the straightedge out over the in-feed table.

I used an adjustable wrench on the big adjustment bolts that are directly under the set screws. There’s only about a 1/8” of adjustment range. After about 45 minutes to an hour of adjusting the in-feed table height and each adjustment bolt, I got things about as good as it was going to get. I tightened all the set screws and put the plastic caps back in the holes. Perhaps next time, I’ll glue a bit of steel inside the caps to be able to pull them out with a magnet. It should work.

I adjusted the height of the out-feed table to the top of the knives such that they scrape the bottom of the straightedge as you turn the cutter, but didn’t move it.

I had a wide piece of Walnut to face joint so I decided to joint it while I had the guard off. The board caught on the out-feed table, so I had to lower it just a bit.

I adjusted the in-feed table so that it was 0.016” (about 1/64) lower than the out-feed. I may change it after making some cuts. Finally, I squared the fence and put the cutter guard mount back on.

-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an axe.

3 comments so far

View Reefwoodworks's profile


7 posts in 96 days

#1 posted 04-13-2020 03:20 PM

This is great! Thanks for taking the time to document and post pictures of this. Laguna should hire you to provide customers with GOOD instructions!

View Reefwoodworks's profile


7 posts in 96 days

#2 posted 04-22-2020 08:15 PM

Thanks again for providing great instructions on set-up of the planer Whop. Here’s a quick little trick I used to get the black plastic caps out to access the set screws.

All you need is a shop vac and a piece of cloth. I don’t recommend using blue shop towels because they can tear and you loose the caps into your shop vac.

Wrap the cloth around the shop vac hose and press it in a little to make a concave “catch”

Hold onto the cloth tightly and turn on the shop vac.

Simply place the end of the hose with the cloth over the black caps and they should just come right out and get caught in the cloth.

That’s it that’s all. I hope this helps!

View whope's profile


182 posts in 3182 days

#3 posted 05-02-2020 06:51 PM

Awesome idea!

-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an axe.

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