Forum topic by mcg1990 | posted 05-25-2015 06:53 PM | 1533 views | 0 times favorited | 21 replies | ![]() |
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05-25-2015 06:53 PM |
The title says most of it, but the context is a round pedestal table. The client wants a rustic, dark stain, similar to projects I’ve completed with Pine. However, they want the durability of a hardwood and we’ve settled on hard Maple as the most likely candidate for the top. So, my question is, is there a wood similar in appearance that I can use for the pedestal? I can use Maple if I have to, but would rather save some bucks if I can. Secondly, if there are one or two options, I’d sure appreciate it if you’d let me know of any prep that would be crucial to the success of the matching. I don’t usually use staining conditioners, or a pre-coat of shellac, due to the rustic nature of the work that I do, but I will do it here if it’s a must. Thanks |
21 replies so far
#1 posted 05-25-2015 07:03 PM |
It will depend on where you live, but here I can generally get yellow birch for a bit cheaper than sugar maple (not that sugar maple is that expensive, but I live in eastern Canada). Yellow birch is as strong as maple, but slightly softer. It very closely resembles maple, although I find it a bit easier to work. Around here they traditionally did hardwood floors out of a mixture of maple and yellow birch. I almost never stain wood, so can’t be much help to you on that. As an aside, it almost sounds like you’re going to use a different wood and then tell your clients it’s maple. But I assume that’s not the case. -- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests |
#2 posted 05-25-2015 07:07 PM |
Thos. Moser recommends yellow birch. In How to Build Shaker Furniture, he writes: -- "Join the chorus if you can. It'll make of you an honest man." - I. Anderson |
#3 posted 05-25-2015 07:36 PM |
How about a thick veneer of hard maple, say 1/4 or even 3/8”? |
#4 posted 05-25-2015 07:42 PM |
Am I naive in saying that soft maple may also be a candidate? All the hard and soft maple I’ve used have similar grain patterns. Left natural, there are differences in color. However when stained, one would think they are similar? -- paxorion |
#5 posted 05-26-2015 05:08 AM |
If the customer asks for, and believes they are paying for, hard maple, substituting something else without their consent is unethical. If that is not your intention, then disregard. I wouldn’t worry about saving money, just pass along the cost to the customer. That said, around here hard maple is pretty darn cheap compared to most hardwoods. -- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/ |
#6 posted 05-26-2015 06:24 AM |
Do your research on staining maple. Maple is notorious for badly blotching. Most will recommend a dye instead of a penetrating stain. Also check into Charles Neil blotch control. I have not use it but it get very good reviews. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Staining_and_Blending_Difficult_Woods.html -- Alaskan's for Global warming! |
#7 posted 05-26-2015 06:47 AM |
I agree with you completely. Now let me play “the devil’s advocate”. Why does the little guy working out of his garage have to be different than everybody else? Have ever looked at the hype on most furniture store furniture. An advertised piece of solid cherry furniture may turn out to be poplar with a cherry finish. Finish manufacture can sell tung oil with no tung oil in it. -- Alaskan's for Global warming! |
#8 posted 05-26-2015 12:06 PM |
AlaskaGuy is right on. Hard maple does not stain well. Use a dye. Here in the U.P. I work with both yellow birch and curly maple. On the maple, a dye will really make the curl “pop” out in a most beautiful manner. Yellow birch (actually the wood is rather white) is a great wood to work with. I like to use a cherry stain. -- "Heaven is North of the Bridge" |
#9 posted 05-26-2015 01:27 PM |
..Because, if consumers don’t already know, we should make it no secret that commercial furniture dealers are notorious deceivers and their word should not be trusted. That’s why their furniture is so inexpensive .. it’s cheap. We serious woodworkers are better than that. We should make that well known and we should live up to our collective expectations. I say, show the customer some finished hard maple and some finished soft maple and/or birch and ask if it will OK. Please don’t spring it on him or her. |
#10 posted 05-26-2015 06:47 PM |
Folks, the reason we don’t act the furniture stores or anyone else who uses deceit to sell a product is called “integrity.” What they do does not dictate what we should do. Just do the right thing. Most of us know what is right. Our problem is sometimes that we think we deserve special consideration from doing what’s right. It they want maple, give ‘em maple and charge them accordingly. Put it on the estimate. If they balk, give them cheaper alternatives. -- --Dale Page |
#11 posted 05-26-2015 07:15 PM |
Amen to that -- paxorion |
#12 posted 05-26-2015 07:54 PM |
Just a question…how much is the maple that you’re using that it’s not affordable (could you find it more affordably?) -- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground. |
#13 posted 05-28-2015 06:06 AM |
I understand your point but ultimately it’s about my ethics. -- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/ |
#14 posted 05-28-2015 03:59 PM |
Funny how turns into a question about ethics and people acting like he’s doing a bait and switch rather than reading the entire question and just answering it. If you read his post he says that maple is the MOST LIKELY candidate, and then also said for the top. Then he asks for similar woods for the base. Sometimes it’s just easier to answer the question than go on a witch hunt. |
#15 posted 05-28-2015 04:28 PM |
Question was read and answered. Apply your reading skills to the whole thread before your knee kicks in gear. And if you have an issue with something I posted, address me directly. -- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/ |
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