Wet wood glue?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by greg48 posted 04-29-2015 05:17 AM 4918 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View greg48's profile


628 posts in 3640 days

04-29-2015 05:17 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question glue

A quick question for my fellow LJ’ers, I’m trying to glue up some fresh sawn Incense Cedar. Titebond III failed to set up satisfactorily (I assume from to much moisture content of the wood). Do you think that a polyurethane (ie., Gorilla Glue) would perform since it is moisture activated or would I still have the same problem?
Your response is greatly appreciated.

-- Greg, No. Cal. - "Gaudete in Domino Semper"

12 replies so far

View altendky's profile


169 posts in 3093 days

#1 posted 04-29-2015 11:03 AM

I think the problem with Gorilla glue is that it foams and expands and drives the joint apart. I’m sure others with actual experience will be able to provide more confident guidance though.

View Wildwood's profile


2899 posts in 3017 days

#2 posted 04-29-2015 11:48 AM

Polyurethane glues (gorilla and other brands) need some moisture to cure and clamping. Poly glues may also fail for the same reason Titedbond III failed too wet and oily cedar wood! I would prefer an epoxy glue over poly!

Wiping area’s to glue with acetone before gluing may help whatever glue you use!

-- Bill

View benchbuilder's profile


285 posts in 3333 days

#3 posted 04-29-2015 01:14 PM

I agree with the acetone but dont use it if your using epoxy, they dont mix well. Very bad.. use acetone and then titebond 3. Let it set for about 15 mins after using the acetone and then wipe dry. Let set another 15 mins then glue. Read the label on the acetone before for me, good for treated wood also. Search Chris schwarzs article on using acetone.

View Ghidrah's profile


667 posts in 2105 days

#4 posted 04-29-2015 02:54 PM

I use Gorilla glue for outside projects especially if they’re going to be within a mile of the ocean. When I glue objects together I clamp them, whether they’re glued with titebond, elmers, gorilla glue white or poly or epoxy. Never in all cases of using gorilla poly have any of my joints opened up.

Gorilla poly is like freezing water it seeks the path of least resistance that’s why it expands out the joint. In your case I’d think different and let the lumber dry out a bit. Glue it up when swollen will cause gnashing of teeth when it all dries out and shrinks big time. The glue joint is stronger than the wood.

-- I meant to do that!

View Mykos's profile


103 posts in 2677 days

#5 posted 04-30-2015 05:21 AM

I too would question the wisdom of gluing wet wood. Nothing good can come of that even if you succeed. Why are you attempting this without drying it first ?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6502 posts in 3376 days

#6 posted 04-30-2015 12:07 PM

One more vote for drying it out some, it’s just likely to not work very well otherwise.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Wildwood's profile


2899 posts in 3017 days

#7 posted 04-30-2015 12:19 PM

Only experience with poly is gluing brass tube to pen blanks and stave construction turned box. Only problem with it has been shelf life. Over at IAP (pen turning), was sent to different test sites where poly receive poor marks. I prefer epoxy & poly glues over CA glue for pen tube glue up!

I agree with not trying to glue wet wood, since don’t know wood MC would expect that and cedar oil a problem too! Unless dealing with freshly cut cedar tree, cedar dries fast and normally defect free. So letting the boards hang out for a week or two to reach EMC won’t hurt.

I still recommend wiping down glue edge with acetone regardless of the glue going to use!

-- Bill

View conifur's profile


954 posts in 2034 days

#8 posted 04-30-2015 12:45 PM

From what I have read, the oils in Incense Cedar and many oily Exotics need to have the gluing surfaces de-oiled prior to glue ups, Acetone, Naphtha, Denatured Alcohol can all be used for this.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View greg48's profile


628 posts in 3640 days

#9 posted 04-30-2015 06:54 PM

I thank you all for your responses. Perhaps a little more explanation is required here to explain the situation. My grand daughter ask if “we” could build a fairy house for Mom’s Day. The picture she had showed curved walls and roof line with little skewed windows and doors. YiaYia called it “whimsical”. Not wanting to set up for laminations or kerf cuts on the inside surfaces, I had hoped to glue up some blocks then cut the curves on the band saw. Since it was an outdoor project I opted for cedar and not wanting to buy the scant sawn fencing boards offered by Home Dump, I procured some full sawn fence boards from a local small mill, but they are fresh sawn, I mean that I can “feel” the moisture in my face when ripping the boards.

Time is getting short, so I will plane another board to get a clean surface, wipe the surfaces with acetone, and try another Titebond III glue up. If that works satisfactorily I’ll post the project. If not, there’s always plan “B”, whatever that may be.

Again, thank you all for your responses.

-- Greg, No. Cal. - "Gaudete in Domino Semper"

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 3252 days

#10 posted 04-30-2015 07:39 PM

Another vote for letting it dry, or buying dry wood. Your nice, flat wood, with smooth curves, could end up being the exact opposite once it dries.

I’m not familiar with Incense Cedar, but if it is anything like Eastern Red Cedar (a.k.a. Aromatic Cedar), TBIII works good on it when it is dry. My ERC cedar chest top is a few years going strong with no ill effects.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View TheFridge's profile


10861 posts in 2368 days

#11 posted 04-30-2015 09:01 PM

Let it dry. Even if you glue it, it will probably fail.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View bigblockyeti's profile


6786 posts in 2603 days

#12 posted 04-30-2015 09:35 PM

I’ve had polyurethane glue fail from lack of penetration due to excessive moisture. It only needs very little to begin curing and too much will cause it to cure before achieving any real penetration. Yet another vote for letting it dry more or purchasing some that’s already dry if you’re in a real time crunch.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics