Squaring the blade on an 8" Craftsman Table Saw Model #113.24280

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Forum topic by HarvMade2 posted 02-21-2015 06:40 PM 1536 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 1607 days

02-21-2015 06:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: craftsman table saw 8 parallel square tilt miter slot rip cut cross cut sled fence trunnion adjust adjusting blade question trick tip jig resource tablesaw milling refurbishing

I have a “new-to-me” 1965 Craftsman 8” table saw model# 113.24280

I am having difficulty getting the blade parallel to the miter slot, because of how the trunnion assembly is attached to the bottom of the cast iron table top.

I am familiar with Delta Uni Saws where the table top is independent of the blade and trunnion assembly.

On my Craftsman, the trunnion assembly bolts directly to the bottom side of the cast iron table top. It is basically a three piece assembly. The arbor is the center section that raises and lowers the blade (no problem here). I’m having difficulty with the two outer assembles (see link below), because not only do they control the tilt of the blade, but this is how you get the blade parallel to the miter slot. Even with the lock down nut tightened, there is some “play” in this assembly. Where it bolts to the bottom of the cast iron table top, they are shaped like the main bearing caps on an engine block.

Long-story-short, I want to be able to make “spot-on” rip cuts and cross cuts. I’m thinking about using the following method:

1. Tighten the lock nut down. Permanently. Some blue Locktight should do the trick.

2. Try my best to the the blade parallel to the miter slot and perpendicular to the table top using the combination square method for parallel and perpendicular (I do not own a dial indicator, nor can I afford one at the moment).

3. Never ever use the tilt on the blade. This is where the “play” (or slop in the assembly) comes into action.

I hope to be able to use the original fence for rip cuts and build a crosscut sled for crosscuts. If I need to cut an angle or a bevel, I will build a jig. It is so difficult to get the blade parallel to the miter slot on this saw, that I never want to have to adjust it again.

Any suggestions, advice, or input would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a link that shows the exploded assembly with what I’m talking about:

Part #16 in the exploded assembly drawing is what I’m referring to as the “outer assemblies” in the above paragraph.

Thank you in advance for your help.


-- HarvMade

1 reply so far

View Ghidrah's profile


667 posts in 1638 days

#1 posted 02-22-2015 04:19 AM

Just guessing but you’ll probably have to flip the saw loosen the arbor nuts then flip it up right. I’d guess you’ll probably need a couple extensions to connect up to your ratchet and socket to tighten it down once you line it up.

Or maybe you can remove the elevator handle then remove the side cover to get at the arbor bolts.

-- I meant to do that!

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