Basement bar build

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Forum topic by jdieter posted 10-11-2014 02:52 PM 1707 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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5 posts in 1687 days

10-11-2014 02:52 PM

First post, please pardon my ignorance if I’m posting in the wrong forum. Just finished a 1600sq.ft basement remodel and starting the design for a bar. It will be shaped like a “J” the outer radius of the hook is 46” with a 24” wide bar top. The outside of the lower bar cabinet face will be finished with cultured stone to match a wood stove hearth. The cultured stone is 3” deep nominally and the bar top will overhang 9” past the stone face. My initial plan is 2 sheets of 3/4” plywood for the top. With an overhang of 12” to the bar base cabinet, because the stone provides no support. Will my plan be strong enough for the bar top or will there be a significant amount of flex in the double 3/4” plywood bar top with a 12” unsupported overhang. The straight long section is 88” and the straight short section is 41”. I would prefer not to add corbels under the top for support.

6 replies so far

View mudflap4869's profile


1925 posts in 1822 days

#1 posted 10-11-2014 06:25 PM

Welcome to Lumberjocks. If they are well glued together? That would make a single 1.5” sheet that you could probably park an elephant on. The question is, will the frame work be strong enough to support that much leverage. Off the shelf cabinetry is not constructed in a manner that lends itself to stresses of that nature. Weight applied to the unsupported side will be directly transferred to the opposite side of the counter as upward force. Will the framework joinery withstand that force without failing? Just my two cents worth of physics.

-- Still trying to master kindling making

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5 posts in 1687 days

#2 posted 10-11-2014 06:54 PM

Yep I agree about the cabinet construction. My plan is to build 2x lumber rectangular frames with lap joints at all four corners and plywood set into rabbets on both sides of the frame. The frames would be anchored to concrete floor with expanding anchors though angle plates. I haven’t worked out the frame spacing yet, but the maximum would be 16”. I may also reinforce the frame interior corners with metal corner braces.

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3208 posts in 2620 days

#3 posted 10-11-2014 10:55 PM

Buy some 3/8” steel strap and drill 2-3 holes in one end over your 2x. Screw the steel strap to the 2x, lay the plywood on top and mark where the steel strap is, then rout out a depression for the steel strap. Finally, drill a few additional holes in the steel and screw the steel to the plywood. The steel does the job of corbels and doesn’t show unless you happen to be on the floor.

-- Art

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14940 posts in 3053 days

#4 posted 10-12-2014 12:36 AM

I had the same exact thought as Art! But he types faster!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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5 posts in 1687 days

#5 posted 10-12-2014 12:36 PM

I like the 3/8” steel strap plan. See any flaws in my plan for the cabinet structure. the frames described above would be tied together with horizontal 2x’s pocket-screw joined to the verticals. Each cavity would have a plywood floor above the toe kick, a mid-height plywood shelf and 2x’s at the top of the frames. Will use 1x’s to build a face frame for the inside bar so I could add doors/drawers at a later date after we live with it for awhile to decide what will work.

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5 posts in 1687 days

#6 posted 04-10-2016 11:42 AM

I’m building the bar in my workshop and have designed it to separate into 3 pieces for re-assembling in the basement. I have the base and frames assembled and I’m getting close to the building the face frames. The frames and doors will be painted to match the existing basement kitchen cabinets, a gray shade with glaze giving them an antiqued look. I’m considering 3/8” WackyWood(that’s what it’s called around here), a bendable plywood, and cold laminating 2 pieces to make the face frames for the curved 20” radius section. Will this bendable plywood hold its shape after cold laminating? I’m using Dap Weldwood plastic resin do to it’s longer working time and ability to resist creep. My other thought besides the Wackywood was cold laminating 1/8” or 1/4” luan plywood for the curved frames

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