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searching for 2/4 walnut.

3K views 21 replies 16 participants last post by  bhacksaw 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm trying to make the Rogowski jewelry box for a friend's wedding, but I can find 2/4 walnut boards that I want to make it out of. The only thing I've found that comes close is the 2/4 board they sell in the little hobby bags at Woodcraft, but I'd have to buy too many bags to make it worth it. I could buy some 4/4 board I've seen for sale on craigslist, but I only have a benchtop bandsaw which I did NOT pay an arm and leg for, so I'm not sure if resawing would be a good idea. Also, I don't have a planer to even it out afterwards. Any ideas?

I'm a relatively new woodworker, and the only walnut I've worked with was from that woodcraft grab-bag. I like the dark color, but the walnut I've seen on craigslist is much lighter. Should I be looking for a specific type of walnut to get that naturally dark color?
 
#2 ·
Maybe you should try searching for black walnut. You might have to go with a veneer. Sometimes, places like Woodworkers Source has samples pieces that might work for you. You might even find a place that will plane it for you. Not sure if WoodCraft or WWSource does that, but you might call them and ask.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Try contacting the folks at Bell Forest and see if they can fix you up. I did see a 5/8 board there, but I would guess not as dark as you want. (They have actual photos of there products.) I think danish dark walnut oil or min-wax dark walnut stain is what you may need to use in the end. By the way, American black walnut will darken with age, while the European walnuts may become paler with exposure. Walnut grows all over the U.S. so you can probably find it at a local small saw mill and get it surfaced to the thickness you want. The issue is that will not be as dark as you want. So you'll have to stain/oil it. (Apparently the only parts of the U.S. it does not grow are: the southern tip of Florida, the southern tip of Texas, Costal California, and the northern portion of the central high plains.) You can also probably take a 4/4 board to the high school shop or a local commercial wood shop or and have it re-sawn and/or re-surfaced down to the thickness you want.
 
#6 ·
I might have some that I can send you. Sometimes I end up with boards that are scant, i.e., thinner than the target thickness, and will not plane out to 3/4". So, let me see if I have some that I could ship to you in a USPS flat rate box. What are your critical dimensions? What your length and width requirements?
 
#7 ·
As for making the walnut dark brown, I have had great success with this method.

Summary:
1. Use a darker dye (I used Transtint Dyes, Dark Walnut)
2. Seal the wood with a light coat of sanding sealer or shellac (I used Bullseye sealcoat)
3. Apply an oil-based stain on top of the sealer. Wipe it on, wipe it off. (I used General Finishes Spiced Walnut)

I was trying to get it particularly dark, so you may want to adjust the dye and stain colors if you're wanting it a little lighter.
Table Wood Drawer Rectangle Desk
 

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#12 ·
Walnut gets quite a bit darker when finish is applied. Whatever you do, try it out first on some scrap before you do it on the final workpiece.

Alternatively, try going to a cabinet shop or something and ask them if they can plane it for you for some money.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
I had some 1" planed and straight stock that I was able to resaw and after planning out the saw marks, worked out to just a little under 7/16". This I used to make a tool box for my son for Christmas and when finished with rattle can lacquer, ended up looking great. The real question is whether it will stand the test of time as he has a tendency to be a bit rough on things at times.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for all the great tips, everyone! So much to respond to:

Bill: Veneer is out as the box will feature proud, slightly chamfered finger joints. I posted to the WW's page (he's who gave me the idea to build this) but no response so far.

CharlesA: that is a beautiful bench!

Bruce: I got a curt "No" when I asked at my Woodcraft. Some of the guys who work there are Grade A human beings, some of them are humps. Apparently the latter answered the phone.

Brian T.: great tip. Lots of wood, but nothing that fit exactly.

Brad: I would love that Rockler discount code, please.

Danny, that would be great! Here's what I basically need (all size are final dimensions, so go a little bigger, please):

(2) 2.25×12.125 front/back
(2) 2.25×12.125 sides
top piece is 12×12, so either (3) 4×12 or (4) 3×12
(2) 2×12.125 to breadboard the top
and some 1/8" thick scrap for floating tenons.

I tried looking up how much those flat rate boxes, but I couldn't nail down anything solid. Let me know if you find it. I think there's a box they refer to as "board game" sized which is the only one I could see that would fit the board lengths.
I might have some that I can send you. Sometimes I end up with boards that are scant, i.e., thinner than the target thickness, and will not plane out to 3/4". So, let me see if I have some that I could ship to you in a USPS flat rate box. What are your critical dimensions? What your length and width requirements?

- WDHLT15
 
#15 ·
I had some 1" planed and straight stock that I was able to resaw and after planning out the saw marks, worked out to just a little under 7/16". This I used to make a tool box for my son for Christmas and when finished with rattle can lacquer, ended up looking great. The real question is whether it will stand the test of time as he has a tendency to be a bit rough on things at times.

- bigblockyeti
He is a Boy what do you expect. :)
 
#18 ·
If Danny doesn't have any, I probably do. I have air dried over in our storage shed. 2 years drying and it is 5/4. I can resaw and plane to your specks.
To fill the box you might get a lot of other kinds of wood though!
 
#19 ·
I buy wood for Intarsia from Ocooch Hardwood and they have quite a few different thickness of Walnut in various width and length. I have used them a number of times for various scroll saw projects but they should have what you need. They ship very quickly and reasonably.
 
#20 ·
Don't write off that bench top bandsaw too quickly. I've done excellent re-sawing on mine up to the max height of 3" on my 9" Sears model. It just takes the biggest, coarsest blade that can be had and a proper tune-up.
 
#22 ·
I have a wrong measurement. The front/back pieces should be 16.125" long, not 12.125"

Thanks for all the great tips, everyone! So much to respond to:

Bill: Veneer is out as the box will feature proud, slightly chamfered finger joints. I posted to the WW s page (he s who gave me the idea to build this) but no response so far.

CharlesA: that is a beautiful bench!

Bruce: I got a curt "No" when I asked at my Woodcraft. Some of the guys who work there are Grade A human beings, some of them are humps. Apparently the latter answered the phone.

Brian T.: great tip. Lots of wood, but nothing that fit exactly.

Brad: I would love that Rockler discount code, please.

Danny, that would be great! Here s what I basically need (all size are final dimensions, so go a little bigger, please):

(2) 2.25×12.125 front/back
(2) 2.25×12.125 sides
top piece is 12×12, so either (3) 4×12 or (4) 3×12
(2) 2×12.125 to breadboard the top
and some 1/8" thick scrap for floating tenons.

I tried looking up how much those flat rate boxes, but I couldn t nail down anything solid. Let me know if you find it. I think there s a box they refer to as "board game" sized which is the only one I could see that would fit the board lengths.

I might have some that I can send you. Sometimes I end up with boards that are scant, i.e., thinner than the target thickness, and will not plane out to 3/4". So, let me see if I have some that I could ship to you in a USPS flat rate box. What are your critical dimensions? What your length and width requirements?

- WDHLT15

- bhacksaw
 
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