Stickley rocking chair....Question about ray fleck lifting

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Forum topic by mrlandon posted 09-03-2014 03:04 AM 1523 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 1812 days

09-03-2014 03:04 AM

Hello Everybody
So I have spent the better part of a year slowly working on a Stickley style rocking chair for my wife because we are expecting our first child. I am a carpenter by trade but this is my first time tackling fine finishing/joinery. I have learned a lot and am happy with how it has turned out so far. I just got the chair back from the upholster. I searched a long time to find someone who would do an authentic spring style seat and it turned out great.!!

Now to the issue. I am now at the point where I am using a cabinet scraper to get it flat and smooth and I plan on doing a dye/clear/gel/clear process to try and get the ray fleck to pop as much as possible. I bookmatched the arms and the result was some of the ray fleck lifting in a couple spots.

So what do you guys suggest I do. Im thinking i could try and lift up some of the hollow sections and try and put some glue in and clamp it? Assuming that could work then how could I fill the depression left. I have looked into burning in but im not sure i could get a color match. I am not planning on using a grain filler. Would my polyeurothane top coat fill in that void and still show the consistent color and grain through it?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am new to this and am trying to research and self teach as much as possible.

6 replies so far

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 3421 days

#1 posted 09-03-2014 08:07 AM

Try a hypodermic to inject glue into the llifted spots, then cover with thick polyethelene plastic and clamp.
I’d then make a filler from fine dust from final sanding of this rocker mixed with shellac or glue.

View AandCstyle's profile


3216 posts in 2707 days

#2 posted 09-04-2014 12:46 AM

I would just put a dab of yellow glue under the raised spots using a sliver (even a feeler gauge) and clamp it gently. You might be able to use your shop vac to suck the glue deeper into the check. Once the glue has cured, sand lightly. The glue line will be very small and unnoticeable. Larger checks will require glue and dust as Michael suggested. Try this first on samples to see if you are okay with the results. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

-- Art

View mrlandon's profile


3 posts in 1812 days

#3 posted 09-06-2014 01:29 AM

Thank you both for your input. I will give it a shot on a sample first and see how it goes!

View AnonymousRequest's profile


861 posts in 1999 days

#4 posted 09-06-2014 04:15 AM

Looks like you’re a carpenter/woodworker by trade now. Nice job on the chair.

View mrlandon's profile


3 posts in 1812 days

#5 posted 09-14-2014 04:25 PM

Thanks! I have a lot of irons in the fire at the moment but I spend an hour or so sanding and scraping each night. Im going to try and source an hypo big enough to inject glue.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4098 days

#6 posted 09-14-2014 05:44 PM

cyanoacrylate glue and accelerator is how I deal
with such issues when building guitars. I’ve
used other glues too, taping or clamping down
but the super glue works the best, imo. I run
out of the stuff because it goes bad. You can
get the accelerator at model airplane hobby
stores. It disappears in the bottle when

I keep fish glue around now. It stays viable for
years and has a fast tack. It’s not the instant
adhesion miracle super glue with accelerator
is but it works okay and doesn’t mess with
finishing by plugging the pores the way PVA
glues can.

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