Upgrade to 8" Jointer

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Forum topic by Bsmith posted 08-30-2014 06:53 PM 2297 views 1 time favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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330 posts in 3584 days

08-30-2014 06:53 PM

I’m thinking of getting rid of my 6” Jointer and 12” lunch box planner and replace it with an 8” jointer. Looked at the Grizzly’s with the spiral head. My only issue (besides money) is most of them are 220 and I only have 110 in the garage. Any recommendations for an 8” jointer running on 110? Thanks, Bryan

-- Bryan

20 replies so far

View firefighterontheside's profile


21268 posts in 2770 days

#1 posted 08-30-2014 07:06 PM

I have no idea, but it’s interesting that the 6” machines have either I or 1 1/2 hp, but the 8” goes up to 3 hp. Seems like 3 hp is overkill. You could probably put a 2 hp motor on the machine and be just as well powered as the 6”. Might me more cost effective to upgrade the garage electrical.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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21268 posts in 2770 days

#2 posted 08-30-2014 07:11 PM

View Loren's profile


10784 posts in 4561 days

#3 posted 08-30-2014 07:59 PM

Putting in 220 is rather straightforward really
but I understand the reluctance to get into
electrical stuff. A neighbor who was an electrical
engineer showed me how to run 220 lines
and ever since I’ve become more and more
confident, getting into 3 phase machinery
and so forth.

There’s a thing called a duplex breaker. You
pull out 2 of your 110v breakers and put
2 duplex breakers in. To one side of each
you put your 110v wire back in and for the
other side of each you pull one leg for a 220v
line. It’s basically a 110v line doubled up
and sometimes you can use existing 110v
wiring, turning the white “neutral” wire into
a live wire. Do check the wire gauges though.

It may be the insert heads need more HP. I never
thought about it.

1.5hp motors can often be set up for either
voltage. If you look for a used 1.5hp jointer
chances are you can switch it over. It’s
a simple thing to do with a diagram on the
motor plate usually.

View Minorhero's profile


373 posts in 3518 days

#4 posted 08-30-2014 08:27 PM

I hope you are not planing on not owning a planer. You cannot reliably face joint 2 sides of a board on a jointer without making a trapezoid.

View CharlesA's profile


3458 posts in 2711 days

#5 posted 08-30-2014 08:43 PM

I’m in a similar position re: 220. Sometimes when you get the big machines that will run on 220v or 110v, the 110v configuration requires 30 amp feed.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Manitario's profile


2816 posts in 3796 days

#6 posted 08-30-2014 08:48 PM

I could live without my jointer; it’s easy enough to joint boards by hand, but planing by hand….no thanks!
If you’re going to put the $$ in for a new jointer, why not upgrade to 240V too?

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

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3458 posts in 2711 days

#7 posted 08-30-2014 08:52 PM

I agree with Manitario—thickness planer is indispensable. Bigger jointer doesn’t replace that function.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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Rick Dennington

7041 posts in 4108 days

#8 posted 08-30-2014 10:34 PM

I sold my 6” jointer to my neighbor about 3 years ago, in hopes of upgrading to an 8”....Well, that hasn’t happened yet, I’m still w/o one, and haven’t really missed needing it….The one that Bill M. posted was the one I’m after, but I’m afraid to buy one since they are no longer made here…..I guess those days are gone….I’ve got a couple of straight line blades that put a smooooth edge on the boards, or I’ll use pocket holes, if necessary….

-- " There's a better way.....find it"...... Thomas Edison.

View jonah's profile


2133 posts in 4212 days

#9 posted 08-31-2014 01:10 AM

Keep the planer. As others mention, a jointer is incapable of making two parallel sides, which is essential to making flat, square stock. You can’t replicate what a planer does with anything other than a hand plane or (with a crap-ton of work) a router.

View MoshupTrail's profile


304 posts in 3394 days

#10 posted 08-31-2014 01:36 AM

Besides, there are several tricks for jointing boards wider than 6” on a 6” jointer. Unless you are doing it a lot, an 8” jointer isn’t worth the extra expense.

-- Some problems are best solved with an optimistic approach. Optimism shines a light on alternatives that are otherwise not visible.

View Bsmith's profile


330 posts in 3584 days

#11 posted 08-31-2014 02:21 AM

Lot of great input. Thanks. Minorhero, I was thinking of going with but now having second thoughts. My lunchbox planer (Ryobi) has much to be desired. Plus I’m working out of half a two car garage. I considered one of those planer/jointer machines but not too keen on the multi tool idea. Thanks again for the input.

-- Bryan

View CharlesA's profile


3458 posts in 2711 days

#12 posted 08-31-2014 02:24 AM

It is dang confusing that there are jointer/planers and then there are combination Jointer/planers (or is it reversed?).


-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View a1Jim's profile


118144 posts in 4490 days

#13 posted 08-31-2014 03:58 AM

A wide jointer is a real pleasure to have (I have a 12”) but as mentioned earlier there are tricks to using a smaller jointer to get wide boards jointed and planed . I would consider upgrading your planner before you upgrade your jointer, because you won’t get parallel sides on your wood by just jointing both sides.


View camps764's profile


867 posts in 3273 days

#14 posted 08-31-2014 11:48 AM

I’d echo others and encourage you to upgrade the planer first. I’d rather have a nice 15” planer and get by with my 6” jointer. You can build a super simple sled to “joint” rough lumber in your planer.

-- Steve

View BoardSMITH's profile


124 posts in 3177 days

#15 posted 08-31-2014 12:22 PM

The Delta DJ-20 pictured above is the same jointer as the Grizzly G0490X in different colors, different switch placement and more powerful motor. I have the Grizzly and can recommend it 100%.

Comparing 110v to 220v is easy. With 220v you have twice the power using half the amps and this makes the machines work easier with less operating costs. The spiral heads are a major plus, they cut as smooth, with less effort, make less noise and make blade changing almost effortless and troublesome. If you don’t feel confident running a 220v circuit, hire a licensed electrician and let a pro do it. it may be a little pricy but at least it will be done correctly and you will have someone to fall back on if something goes wrong.

With a parallelogram jointer the tables do not require shims in the ways to keep them level to each other. I had a Powermatic 54A and after a couple of years the ways needed to be shimmed again and again and again. (That jointer had a curious habit of allowing chips to enter the start contact of the motor requiring it to be removed, cleaned and reinstalled. That is a MAJOR chore and is why that jointer was disposed of.)

Stick with a single purpose machine. Yes you can purchase a combination machine but you will find, and the reviews here on LJ will prove this out, that neither function is as good as a single function machine.

You will find an 8” jointer is more useful in the long run and with a 15” surface planer you can prepare stock easily. No you can’t plane stock to a thickness with a jointer which is why a surface planer is essential. Simply stated, a planer will follow twists in stock. Face jointing isn’t a procedure a planer was designed and meant to do.

-- David

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