Shop floor - RAW CONCRETE

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Forum topic by Shawn posted 07-09-2014 05:28 PM 2023 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Shawn's profile


51 posts in 2237 days

07-09-2014 05:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question shop floor concrete

My shop floor is raw concrete and is about 9 months old with just a trowel finish (semi-rough). Do I NEED to seal it, paint it or anything? Will moisture work its way up through the concrete into my shop? I really hate painting and frankly I don’t want to have to move everything out. If leaving the shop floor in it’s raw form and there’s no harm then that’s what I prefer, BUT if not…. Please let me know. Thanks.

-- -Shawn

19 replies so far

View bandit571's profile


24700 posts in 3325 days

#1 posted 07-09-2014 05:47 PM

There IS a sealer for concrete. 5 gal. buckets. Foam paint roller and a long handle.

Or a garden sprayer. Paint roller will put on a better coating.

Yes, unless there was a sheet of plastic laid down UNDER the concrete, there WILL be moisture coming up through the concrete. It is just about the same as a hard sponge.

There is a latex paint made FOR concrete floors, again a paint roller apply.

As for a trowel finish, it is for the surface to be non-slippery. Slick finish is nice, but also very slick.

One can just roller paint what shows, Then when something gets moved, you would have to paint the empty spot.

Just a sealer will do. IF, however, cars and such will be parked on it, roadsalt WILL eat your floor. Right through the sealer. Proof? Look at the local highway that are concrete. Sealer would be a yearly maintainence issue. Look at your sidewalks.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Rugman01's profile


13 posts in 2080 days

#2 posted 07-09-2014 06:03 PM

What about apoxy floor coating like for a garage. I have the same issue and it has been working good for me so far

-- The meek shall inherit the earth, when the bold are done with it.

View ajosephg's profile


1882 posts in 4203 days

#3 posted 07-09-2014 06:08 PM

I’d use an epoxy coating. It’s durable (most likely never have to be recoated) and if you spill something on the floor, you have a better chance of cleaning it up. Spill something on concrete and it most likely will leave an unremovable stain.

-- Joe

View Todd's profile


420 posts in 2319 days

#4 posted 07-09-2014 06:36 PM

I used a gray epoxy seal coat. The nice thing about that is that it makes it easy to find stuff if you drop it. Of course when I put mine on I had just built my shop and not put the tools in.

-- Todd, Huntsville, AL

View higtron's profile


253 posts in 3319 days

#5 posted 07-09-2014 06:38 PM

To test whether moisture is coming through the concrete tape a small piece of clear plastic sheeting to the concrete come back in a day or so if the plastic has condensation between the floor and the plastic than moisture is wicking through. Was there a vapor barrier laid down before the concrete was poured (plastic sheeting laid on the sub grade before the concrete)? This will stop wicking but if it wasn’t than sealing is your only option

-- A friend will help you move, a good friend will help you move a body

View ex-member's profile


186 posts in 2417 days

#6 posted 07-09-2014 06:45 PM

Higtrom, there will always be condensation if you do that unless you live in the Mojave. Concrete is porous, damp will find it’s way. The thing is ventilation and levels of humidity. Can you cope with the amount of moisture? are there windows, vents? air movement?

View bigblockyeti's profile


6284 posts in 2363 days

#7 posted 07-09-2014 06:52 PM

Can you find out if a vapor barrier was laid down before the concrete was poured? If it’s only 9 months old and was made to code (in most areas) it should have been done.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View Knothead62's profile


2600 posts in 3603 days

#8 posted 07-09-2014 07:26 PM

Hopefully there was a vapor barrier of thick plastic put down before the concrete was poured. As mentioned, check on it.

View Shawn's profile


51 posts in 2237 days

#9 posted 07-09-2014 07:29 PM

There is a plastic vapor barrier that was laid down after termite treatment and before concrete was poured. So, do I still need a sealer or paint?

-- -Shawn

View ChefHDAN's profile


1533 posts in 3492 days

#10 posted 07-09-2014 07:49 PM

Shawn, If the MS in your location means your in Mississippi then I don’t think the floor will be your issue, the water will walk into the shop with the wind as humidity, Houston TX was almost as bad. For myself, I’d like to put a treatment on my floor, but trying to move everything and get all of the spill/stain crap off is just too much of a pain in the ass, next shop though, I’ll do the floor before the moving truck arrives..

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View bandit571's profile


24700 posts in 3325 days

#11 posted 07-09-2014 08:10 PM

Sealer,,THEN the paint. The epoxy paint is better.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5252 posts in 4603 days

#12 posted 07-09-2014 08:16 PM

Put down CVT flooring. Not expensive, and will last giving you an easily broomed/vac surface.
CVT=composite vinyl tile. 12”X12”. Usually about $.80/sq. ft.
I’ve used it on three shop floors without regret.

-- [email protected]

View Shawn's profile


51 posts in 2237 days

#13 posted 07-11-2014 01:17 PM

ChefHDAN: Mississippi is in fact where I live.

I think for now since we’ve established that having a plastic vapor barrier will block moisture I will just leave the raw concrete. Sometime soon I will seal and paint at the very least Or maybe do what Bill suggest.

Thanks guys!

-- -Shawn

View bigblockyeti's profile


6284 posts in 2363 days

#14 posted 07-11-2014 01:52 PM

My shop was converted to a gym by the second owner, compete with glued down astro turf. I (the third owner) pulled up all the turf and reverted the space back into a shop. I wanted to put down an epoxy floor like one of my co-workers did in his garage. I changed my mind when his car slid in the garage into the far wall and almost into the kitchen (he didn’t put any sand in the mix for traction). The turf glue that I couldn’t figure out how to get up has actually proved to be a decent covering for the floor, providing traction and protection for the concrete.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View Quanter50's profile


278 posts in 2938 days

#15 posted 07-11-2014 03:12 PM

Sealer! No question. Vapor barrier or no vapor barrier. I sealed mine after we poured it. This was 25 years ago. Stuff sweeps up easily and spills clean up easily. Read the directions on the 5 gallon can. You’ll be glad you did it.

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