Not sure how to cut a chamfer. HELP !!!

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Forum topic by johnhutchinson posted 05-23-2014 06:48 PM 3690 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1243 posts in 2015 days

05-23-2014 06:48 PM

Topic tags/keywords: chamfer jig shaping

I have a round disk that’s 1” thick x 5-3/4” diameter, and I need to cut a 60-degree x 1/2” high chamfer around the perimeter. I can think of two DANGEROUS ways of doing it, but I’m looking for a non-911 solution.

I don’t care if there’s a center hole because I’ll plug it.

I also need to drill 36 equally-spaced holes, centered on the face of the chamfer, but I know how to safely and accurately jig that.

-- John - Central Ohio - "too much is never enough"

37 replies so far

View Marcus's profile


1165 posts in 2406 days

#1 posted 05-23-2014 06:53 PM

I would head to the bandsaw for this…tilt the fence, hole in the middle of the piece to pivot around (just like cutting a circle).

If you dont want a hole showing, just plug it with a dowel. Better safe and have a dowel showing than cut off a finger.

View JAAune's profile


1864 posts in 2703 days

#2 posted 05-23-2014 06:53 PM

You didn’t mention if you had a lathe or not because that’s precisely the sort of work a lathe does well.

Outside of that I’d consider a radius jig that can be presented to a stationary sander at an angle.

-- See my work at and

View longgone's profile


5688 posts in 3694 days

#3 posted 05-23-2014 06:59 PM

I have done something very similar before with a 45 degree chamfer. I used a chamfer bit on a router table and used a starting pin to do it freehand.
Use an Incra Protractor to lay out the markings for the holes (every 10 degrees for 36 holes) and drill them prior to doing the chamfer

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20283 posts in 2242 days

#4 posted 05-23-2014 07:05 PM

I think you’d be safe with the router. Either with a hand held router with the piece sort of anchored so it won’t move. You may want to make a few passes. Other way is on the table freehand. I do this frequently when making quilt stands. The pieces are oddly shaped, but I need to round over all the edges. Use something to pivot the piece into the bit then maneuver it all the way around. Again you may need to make several passes. I understand though that when something feels unsafe, it may make it unsafe. Be sure that you are not making a climb cut, that would be unsafe and could pull your hands into the bit. Take care.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View NoThanks's profile


798 posts in 1915 days

#5 posted 05-23-2014 07:21 PM

I would make a jig for my table saw something like this. I would start at the corner and make several passes moving the fence in a little each time until I reached the desired depth. I would place the circle into the guide and raise the blade into it while turning the circle backwards to let the blade cut into the material.

The drawing is for the conceptual idea only, you should improvise the idea to make it work safely for you.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

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Craftsman on the lake

2974 posts in 3824 days

#6 posted 05-23-2014 07:40 PM

Okay, here’s an odd idea. Mount the disk with a bolt and nut in the center hole. Put it in a drill press. Glue some 60 grit sandpaper on an angle block and clamp it to the table. Bear down on the drill press handle till the correct depth chamfer is reached.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

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4290 posts in 2153 days

#7 posted 05-23-2014 07:40 PM

+ JAAune


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13 posts in 1869 days

#8 posted 05-23-2014 07:47 PM

I would use a 12 inch disk sander with mitergauge slot perpendicularly arranged to the surface of the disk (Delta has a combination disk / belt sander with this capability but you can easily use a temporary table with the aforementioned slot clamped on to the table of a benchtop 12 inch disc sander). A small moving block that includes a small pin pricking the center of the workpiece is moved in the miter gauge slot toward the spinning disk to produce the chamfer ( i.e., the table is obviously tilted). A stop block can be affixed in the miter gauge slot to ensure that the desired diameter is maintained. A preliminary planing to remove most of the material will reduce the sanding required. See the following:

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Arlin Eastman

4259 posts in 2947 days

#9 posted 05-23-2014 07:51 PM

Wood Lathe


-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View Fettler's profile


200 posts in 2383 days

#10 posted 05-23-2014 07:59 PM

Like you inferred that’s extremely dangerous to do on a table saw. The blade’s forward momentum is going to try to chuck the work piece at you. Any lateral movement can cause the blade to bind.

You could do this with safely with a hand router w/ a guide bearing, pinned piece + table router, a jig for a bandsaw, a lathe or possibly a custom shooting board.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5205 posts in 4346 days

#11 posted 05-23-2014 08:09 PM

Router table if ya have one.

-- [email protected]

View TerryDowning's profile


1117 posts in 2503 days

#12 posted 05-23-2014 08:14 PM

Wow, this discussion really highlights the creativity, and versatility of wood workers.

Rarely is there one and only one way to perform an operation.

So much depends on available tools/machining capability.

Great ideas and suggestions.

Good to see that the OP is asking a question to keep himself safe.

I Really like this site for this reason. (among others) Great Job everyone.

-- - Terry

View stefang's profile


16705 posts in 3720 days

#13 posted 05-23-2014 08:32 PM

A lathe would be the easiest and safest tool for this job and if the lathe has an indexing system the holes could be marked with that and if the holes are 90deg. to the bottom they could also be drilled while still mounted on the lathe using a Jacobs chuck to hold the bit.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View bigblockyeti's profile


5742 posts in 2107 days

#14 posted 05-23-2014 08:57 PM

I would be inclined to make a jig for the bandsaw where you would first tilt the table to 45 degrees and have the jig designed to add 15 more degrees for the total 60 required. While it would leave a rough finish, you could use the same jig on a disc sander, again, tilted to 45 degrees and finish the surface to the final dimension. You could then tilt the drill press table 15 degrees the other way to register the 36 holes that need to be bored perpendicular to the chamfer face. Getting all 36 holes evenly spaced could be done after cutting and sanding, with a protractor, sharp pencil and patience while laying out. A brad point bit would help keep the holes dead on your mark.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

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Steve Kreins

358 posts in 2017 days

#15 posted 05-23-2014 09:04 PM


-- I thank God for everything, especially all of you!

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