New Grizzly G1023 setup review and questions.

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by skatefriday posted 05-06-2014 05:28 PM 2837 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View skatefriday's profile


455 posts in 2338 days

05-06-2014 05:28 PM

I took delivery of a new Grizzly G1023RLW a few days ago. This is my
first real table saw.

It arrived from UPS freight very beat up. I took pictures, marked the invoice,
and called Grizzly. They immediately offered to send me another one. Pretty
nice. I choose to unpack the machine as I’d waited for over a month on
backorder and was anxious to start building it out. As it turned out despite
two very large protrusions into the box on both sides (I think they were
played forklift joust with it) the only visible damage was to the motor cover
door were it was bent by a clear mishandling of the package.
Grizzly shipped a new one to me yesterday.

It comes in two boxes, the main saw and the fence. The instructions
consist of three books, one each for the saw, the fence and the router
extension wing. After spending a very large amount of time cleaning
the main table of all the rust preventive junk, following the instructions
I attached the left wing and the fence. The front fence rail’s bolt holes
were misaligned by about 1/16” to the mounting holes on the front fence’s
support tube. Drilling them out slightly larger allowed me to mount the
tube but I would have expected better accuracy there.

After attaching all the miscellaneous stuff (power switch, motor cover,
fence storage hooks, etc) the instructions said to move to the router
extension table manual and mount it. I quickly discovered there were
two problems here. 1) there was no way to support the table with
a helper because the fence rails didn’t allow your hands to get where
they needed to be to hold the very, very heavy extension in place. and
2) the ends of fence rails impinged ever so slightly into the ends of the
extension table, so even if you could find some way to support it, you
couldn’t lower it into place as it was blocked by the fence rails.

The instructions specifically said to install the fence rails before the
extension table, but I found this impossible. I took off the back rail
and my helper still had great difficulty holding it into place given the
awkward nature of not having a great place to hold the front side.

Grizzly should improve that part of the instruction booklets.

Both extensions needed to be shimmed on bottom with masking tape.
My helper was not happy to discover that with the router table extension
when we took it back off.

The blade, once installed, was aligned within about 4/1000” from the
factory. I did not move the table top to align it further. Do I care?
I don’t know, I think I’ll have to build a few things and see how square
they come out.

The fence was also quite accurate out of the box and is easily adjusted
with the set screws.

The saw sounds awesome when you turn it on. A nice low pitched
growl. Cuts quite well. The first thing I did was run some plywood
through it for legs and stretchers for an outfeed table. I can confirm
that it makes sawdust. I put CMT’s industrial melamine blade on it
and with the stock blade insert I get fantastic cuts with no chipout.
Amazing what a good saw and blade can do.

The router extension table is still giving me a bit of a problem. I
was unable to get it dead flush and if you run your finger along the
seam you can feel a 1/64” or 1/32” ridge along the length. And
I think the ridge is not the same along the length as if the extension
may not by dead flat.

Is this something that I care about? I’ve been watching The Wood
Whisperer on YouTube and that guy is very particular about stuff being
dead flat. Will this affect the accuracy of my cuts? While this saw
is orders of magnitude better than anything I’ve ever cut with before
I don’t want to find I can’t get the accuracy I’d like because of a
defect in the saw’s table.

4 replies so far

View Kaa162's profile


75 posts in 2506 days

#1 posted 05-12-2014 06:25 PM

what made you choose the 1023 over the 6090? I am trying to decide. I am buying on Saturday.

-- Blessed to have a wife who supports my addiction...Hobbies!

View MT_Stringer's profile


3183 posts in 4087 days

#2 posted 05-12-2014 06:53 PM

Love my 1023. Use it to see if the problems are minor or something that needs to be adjusted.

If I remember correctly, I installed both extensions first, then the fence rails.

Note: I chose the 1023 over the 690 because it was on sale. :-)

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View tme4tls's profile


21 posts in 3479 days

#3 posted 05-12-2014 07:03 PM

Removing the blade guard to change the blade requires a contortionist to get to the clamp lever. I believe you might need to remove the router table to get to the clamp.
Dust collection through the silly little hose is very poor because it clogs easily where it connects to the blade shroud. I removed the shroud and hose and opened up the dust port in the back of the cabinet. Made dust collection more efficient.
The clamp which holds the blade guard on needs to be adjusted a little tighter. The guard on my 1023 was completely removed off by a kick back which left 25 plus tooth marks on the splitter.

View skatefriday's profile


455 posts in 2338 days

#4 posted 05-12-2014 08:39 PM

I have the router table and don’t find it that difficult to get to the clamp, but a design that allowed easier access through the top would have been nice.

I chose the 1023 for the router table extension. I have limited shop space.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics