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Humidor Question

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Forum topic by majeagle1 posted 01-13-2009 07:50 AM 2713 views 2 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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majeagle1

1426 posts in 4105 days


01-13-2009 07:50 AM

Topic tags/keywords: box humidor spanish cedar

I have seen some great humidors on this site and read some very informative blogs but still have a couple of questions I would like help with.

I typically use “kerf” hinges for my jewelry boxes….........do you think that this type of hinge is strong enough for a humidor? The humidor will be 13×9 x 5

I am lining it with spanish cedar and i need to know:
Should I cut the spanish cedar sides and “pressure fit” them into the outer box?
Should I glue/laminate the cedar onto the sides of the outer box?

I was going to actually make the bottom of the “humidor” from spanish cedar and for the top of the humidor I was going to include a thin piece of cedar in the “groove” along with the top inset piece for the humidor. That would mean all I would have to do would be to fit in the inside cedar sides and the dividers. Any opinions?

Thanks for any and all opinions / help

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/


10 replies so far

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4054 posts in 4673 days


#1 posted 01-13-2009 09:47 AM

I’d think it might be easiest, if the box will be of a mitered design, to laminate the sides prior to assembly. I’m not sure about the kerfed hinges. I would recommend a humidor lock, which draws the lid down tight when locked. This one is from Lee Valley.

If it’s a high end gift or commission I’d probably used Brusso stopped hinges or a quadrant hinge.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over two decades.

View Tom Adamski's profile

Tom Adamski

306 posts in 4380 days


#2 posted 01-13-2009 05:27 PM

Gene,
Kerf hinges are ok… But I would reccomend a higher quality hinge and hardware for a better overall look and quality. Nothing screams louder than cheap hardware on a nice box. This is not to mean you have to break the bank and put $200 worth of hardware on a $20 box. If you are looking to upgrade to a Brusso hinge, IM me and I’ll tell you where to get them a little cheaper. And, as Doug mentioned above, use a better lock. Half mortise are ok, but with a little practice and patience you could set a nice full mortise lock and it will look even better. Watch out for “gold plated” locks. They claim to be better suited for the moisture in a humidor, but they are very expensive for what you get and the gold looks a little cheap. I would suggest a “Viola” mortise lock. They are made in Spain of high quality brass and are very high quality locks that look great. If you want them to patina, just let them be. If you want to keep them bright, put a light coat of lacquer on them before the final fitting…

Hope this helps,

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

View majeagle1's profile

majeagle1

1426 posts in 4105 days


#3 posted 01-13-2009 07:19 PM

Tom & Douglas…....... Thanks for the tips/info, I actually hadn’t thought of a lock and the purpose of keeping the lid down tight. I will go ahead and do that. I’ll probably practice on a scrap first…..........

I will look at the better hardware, not only for presentation, but for strength. This is going to be a new adventure !

Douglas, I agree on laminating the cedar to the sides prior to assembly, but what about finishing? Can I just tape off the edges of the cedar to keep the finish off of it? I am afraid of the cedar trying to act as a wick and soak up some of the finish from outside box. I will be using an oil & varnish finish.

Tks again…........

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

View Tom Adamski's profile

Tom Adamski

306 posts in 4380 days


#4 posted 01-13-2009 07:44 PM

Gene,
Most of the high end humidors I’ve seen have a cedar lattice grate in the bottom and interlocking sides that are not attached to the box itself. I would assume this is to keep the dissimilar cedar expansion from affecting the main wood of the box.

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

View majeagle1's profile

majeagle1

1426 posts in 4105 days


#5 posted 01-13-2009 07:55 PM

Good thought Tom, I hadn’t thought of the difference between the cedar and outer material regarding expansion. Maybe I will go with the mitered pressure fit for the sides, tks…...........

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

View TheCaver's profile

TheCaver

288 posts in 4448 days


#6 posted 01-14-2009 03:29 PM

Pressure fit is def the way to go. Make sure to leave a lip that mates with the lid as this is what will give you a good seal. You should get a whoosh rather than a bang when you let your lid fall. I would go with a quadrant hinge or at least some higher end hardware as Tom suggests.

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4054 posts in 4673 days


#7 posted 01-14-2009 04:30 PM

Gene,
Since I am lukewarm on the mitered corner I have assembled the liner post-construction. But having also done laminated construction with Spanish Cedar, I haven’t seen the sort of forces that would cause trouble vis-a-vis cross-grain expansion over stock of the modest dimensions encountered in small box construction, at least with Cherry as the outside wood. Ditto to difficulties with cupping when the cedar is unfinished in the show face, but coated with Gorilla Glue on the laminated side.

Be sure and be very cautious with the oil finishes. Getting a drop on the cedar will cause a punt situation.

Click for details

Shellac might be a good choice to avoid the possibility of stinking up the stoogies. One would have to be a bit cautious with dripping when charging the humidifier. Industrial Velcro is a good way to go in attaching the humidifier to the lid.

My version of a humidor, was done with liner assembly after “carcase” construction with box joints, and designed it with the lip TheCaver mentions. Just be sure of your diagonals when gluing up.

Click for details

I have a good source for inexpensive quads, Beall Tools as well as the Hinge Wizard that makes routing the mortises nearly painless.

Good luck with the box. Now I have to bug Tom for that link to the Brussos!

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over two decades.

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majeagle1

1426 posts in 4105 days


#8 posted 01-15-2009 10:13 PM

Doug, thanks for the additional info/tips….......
I am struggleing with a decision and maybe it is just me…........
I think that Brusso hardware is by far the best quality out there, and is truely beautiful…....... However…...
Sometimes when I open up a box with Brusso ( and some others ) , the first thing my eye goes to is this
overpowering of “BRASS” and then, you see the qualities of the inside of the box. I like it the other way around. Am I crazy?

In the past I never have been fond of “exterior” hinges, but seeing the humidor that Doug put up in this post, they seem to do a very nice job, probably would be sturdier than kerf hinges and there is a minimal amount of “BRASS” showing on the inside…....... They look very nice !

Would like any further opinions / advice….......... Tks

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4054 posts in 4673 days


#9 posted 01-16-2009 03:49 PM

Gene,
Those are Brusso back-mount stop hinges

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over two decades.

View majeagle1's profile

majeagle1

1426 posts in 4105 days


#10 posted 01-17-2009 08:31 PM

Thanks Doug, they look really nice….........

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

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