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Forum topic by z29 posted 03-30-2014 10:50 PM 1776 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View z29's profile


7 posts in 1992 days

03-30-2014 10:50 PM

Bought the TS3660 for $300 off GL, after searching the reviews on comparable saws it seemed like this one rated pretty well. So, I could use some advice on accessories and any mods to it, as this is my first saw of this size and ability to do work on a new level. Thanks in advance.

-- Stan

9 replies so far

View hoosier0311's profile


706 posts in 2472 days

#1 posted 03-31-2014 12:16 AM

I have had that saw now for a tad more than 5 years. I had to put bearings and an arbor shaft in it, (cost 40 bucks) I have no problems with the fence. The miter gauge is a little weak. Id upgrade that. Make some zero tolerance inserts and I think you will be good to go. rigid says it’s 1.5 HP, not sure how accurate that is, but good blades are a must.

-- atta boy Clarence!

View Minorhero's profile


373 posts in 3052 days

#2 posted 03-31-2014 12:38 AM

My first saw was the 3650 which is essentially identical to your saw. It was a good saw and I only got rid of it because I found a used unisaw for cheap.

You should buy a featherboard for safer cuts. I use a Grip-tite magnetic featherboard for almost every cut and I highly recommend it.

I would definitely make sure you have a good saw blade. If you go with a thin kerf blade make sure you buy some blade stiffeners to go with it. Otherwise buy a full kerf blade. I would recommend saw blades from Forrest or Tenryu Gold Series. These will be relatively expensive. Expect to pay 100+ per saw blade. But if you get lousy cuts, what was the point?

The mobile base on this saw is still my favorite of any tool I have ever owned.

View toolie's profile


2163 posts in 3075 days

#3 posted 03-31-2014 01:47 AM

in this order:

blade (re-thought after scott’s post)


incra v27 miter gauge

outfeed table

crosscut sled

convert to 220v is your shop has limited power like mine

that’s a great TS. with care, it could very well be a forever saw. WOOD magazine uses a 3650 for many of their shop projects. a cabinet saw isn’t mandatory for fine woodworking.

also, if you don’t mind losing the functionality of the tape on the front rail, the front and rear rails can be slid to the right for 6 to 12” more rip capacity to the right of the blade.

NOTE: where’s the spreader rod that goes between the front and rear rails to the right of the right side extension table? that rod, and the provided shims, prevents the front and rear rails from pinching together when the fence is clamped down to the right of the CI table and it’s extensions. it’s a pretty important part of the fence system.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile


8300 posts in 3822 days

#4 posted 03-31-2014 01:49 AM

That’s a well proven contractor saw…you did well. Get it aligned, and buy a good blade or two for it. You shouldn’t need blade stiffeners unless there’s a problem.

Current saw blade bargains

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Greg In Maryland's profile

Greg In Maryland

553 posts in 3445 days

#5 posted 03-31-2014 02:11 AM

As others said, you did well.

I have the 3650 and built an outfeed table similar to the one described here: Rigid Forum. Ok, identical to this one. The only thing I might have done different would be to construct a folding out feed table. It takes up a fair amount of real estate in my basement that I could otherwise use.

I also got rid of the stock dust “collection” and replaced it with a home made chute and dust port. I also needed to cover up the back end of the saw to improve dust collection. I used 1/4ths MDF and small magnets for that. Rockler, Woodcraft, Grizzly, etc. all sell adapters that could easily be modified for use on your saw.

Dust collection under the table is pretty good. On the top of the table, it is pretty much non-existent. I am thinking of making an articulated/cantilevered arm-type arrangement to take care of that issue. Something on the lines of this from Wood Magazine

I also replaced the stock miter gauge with the Incra V27 miter gauge and made a cross cut (panel) sled. Both work like a charm and make life that much easier.

I have been very pleased with my 3650 and from the looks of it, you scored a nice saw.

Have fun!


View NiteWalker's profile


2739 posts in 3024 days

#6 posted 03-31-2014 03:45 AM

Here’s what I wold do:

- Align it. Goes without saying.
- Outfeed table. There’s a lot of nice designs for that saw. Search “TS3650 folding outfeed table”.
- Right side extension table. It would eliminate the need for the bar between the front and rear rails. Keep it simple; a simple piece of 1/2” or 3/4” plywood or MDF with formica on it on a frame of hardwood with a few cross braces to keep it flat.
- ZCI’s. Here's a great article on making them. I’m using 1/4” baltic birch plywood for the inner layers instead of hardboard.
- Crosscut sled. Definitely a must.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View z29's profile


7 posts in 1992 days

#7 posted 04-01-2014 09:53 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions, I now have a lot to ponder. Am thinking dust collection as well.

-- Stan

View cutworm's profile


1075 posts in 3240 days

#8 posted 04-01-2014 11:56 PM

Sweet! I bought mine about 4 years ago and really like it. I can’t imagine needing something better.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View toolie's profile


2163 posts in 3075 days

#9 posted 04-03-2014 01:12 AM

The only thing I might have done different would be to construct a folding out feed table.

just curious. bob d’s model for a 3650 outfeed table is a folding table. or am i missing something?

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

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