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Forum topic by niki | posted 06-29-2007 07:42 AM | 3067 views | 0 times favorited | 14 replies | ![]() |
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06-29-2007 07:42 AM |
Good day As you noticed, I made my router table fence with a T so it will be set parallel the the table edge and I said that it’s very important for me… On this post you will see why it’s so important for me… You can measure the distance with the same set-up using ruler but I prefer the caliper even though it requires some calculation. The calculation is very simple…lets say that I want to meke a slot of 3/8” (with 3/8” bit) that will start 5/8” trom the fence. It’s very easy to modify the caliper…takes some 5 min, some 3 pieces from the scrap box and a few drops of CA…(I have a step-by-step pics and will post separately). Best regards |
14 replies so far
#1 posted 06-29-2007 07:50 AM |
Niki - First, I always enjoy your postings! Incredible detail. I love your engineering. Second, I need to read this several times – much to learn! |
#2 posted 06-29-2007 09:19 AM |
Thank you David Not much “engineering” there, I just wanted a “reference line” of each bit diameter or as I say…I want to see where “the bit will hit”. You can see it as a template for each bit. That way, I can set the fence even by using a pencil or knife mark on the workpiece and the locator will “tell” me where the cut is going to be Yes, it’s a little bit extra work to make the T-fence and the locators but I have to make it…only ones and later, the fence bit distance setting is so easy and accurate for me. niki |
#3 posted 07-01-2007 03:14 AM |
Niki, You are a great innovator! Super ideas for promoting quick accuracy. I notice that you like to use “flooring” for your jigs. Is there a reason why you prefer that material, or is it that you had some left over from a floor job and you’re just using it up? -- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28 |
#4 posted 07-01-2007 03:28 AM |
Interesting setup for finding your router line. -- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected] † |
#5 posted 07-01-2007 08:13 AM |
Thank you Tom and Karson Tom I used them instead of plywood or MDF because they are tough (HDF), covered with Plastic laminate from both sides, very consistent in thickness, very flat and glue very good and fast with CA (super glue). I use them also as “Runners” for the TS sled because they are very slippery (my runners are usually narrower that the miter slot width). The runner (tongue) that you see on the pics above, is also a piece of 8mm (5/16”) Floor panel, I made the slot with 8mm bit and the floor panel fits like a glove. niki |
#6 posted 07-01-2007 03:01 PM |
Niki, If people walk on it for decades and it stands up to that kind of abuse, it should last for a long time as a router table or “runners” for the TS. It is pretty near “indestructible” material – and the “slipperiness” is a real benefit. Thanks for sharing your great ideas with us. -- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28 |
#7 posted 07-01-2007 10:57 PM |
Tom, I’m using it almost for anything that requires 5/16” plates and even as a router bases, Circular saw bases and Circular saw guide (they come in 50” or 100” long), and even TS sleds. One small advise…When you drill a hole in the Floor Panel and counter-sink it, if you want to re-enforce the hole, spread some CA on the counter-sink and the hole itself and let it dry (actually, penetrate) for some 10 minutes…the hole becomes “Iron”...I did it on my router table for the router mounting holes…of course you can use this method to re-enforce holes in MDF, plywood or Melamine. All kind of glues are coming off very easy except the CA (super glue) that is “welding” the Plastic laminate. Regards |
#8 posted 07-02-2007 03:30 AM |
Niki, -- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28 |
#9 posted 07-02-2007 05:59 AM |
Tom Long time ago, I was in the “Radio controlled Flying Models” hobby, the first “subject” that you learn in this hobby is “how to use CA”...The models are made of Balsa wood that is very soft (and light) and we used this “patent” to re-enforce holes and the threaded hole (i.e. the hole that the screw thread is going in), a drop of CA, turned the Balsa to be stronger than Oak. I’m using this “patent” also to re-enforce the threaded hole of Jigs or anything that I have to screw/un-screw many times especially on Plywood MDF or Melamine (chipboard). After screwing the screw first time, I take it out, fill the hole with CA and let it dry for 15~20 minutes, the threaded hole will never loose it’s threads again Regards |
#10 posted 07-02-2007 05:05 PM |
Niki, I guess I’ll have to get some now that I have some good uses for it, and maybe, if I follow your instructions here, I can have it more than a couple of weeks before it dries up on me. -- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28 |
#11 posted 07-02-2007 05:38 PM |
Niki, another great display of ingenuity! I look forward to your posts! -- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato) |
#12 posted 07-04-2007 03:24 AM |
Niki, Thanks again for you post. I enjoy your picture documentation of your inventive and creative jigs. I also learned from your dialog with Tom. -- John |
#13 posted 07-04-2007 10:19 PM |
Thank you so much for your kind replies Today I worked all day in…....Yes, laying “Floor panels” in relative’s house… All my body pains (I’m not used to such a hard work) but…I got many left overs for my jigs and fixtures. niki |
#14 posted 07-05-2007 01:09 AM |
i went over what you wrote real quik and i have no idea what you are talking about. haha, it looks like to much work for me. -- i can do all things through christ who strengthens me |
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