Woodmaster Products ??

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Forum topic by AnonymousRequest posted 03-09-2014 04:43 AM 1945 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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861 posts in 2840 days

03-09-2014 04:43 AM

I just received my info packet from Woodmaster Machinery today. The company is based out of Kansas City, Mo, which is really not to far from me. My whole shop is vintage Delta and other USA made machines. I am certainly not trying to start a debate, but buying USA, is important to me personally. I requested info on the planer/moulder and also received info on their whole product line. My lunchbox Delta is approx. 18 years old and I am looking for an upgrade and possibly wider capabilities. They also sent info on their drum sanders, something I am in dire need of. The prices are more than reasonable and way less than I expected. Does anyone own or have experience with their products? Quality machines? Noisy, being on steel bases? Customer service?
Any info would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.

10 replies so far

View Loren's profile (online now)


11325 posts in 4939 days

#1 posted 03-09-2014 05:44 AM

Woodmaster makes a good planer at the weight
class. They feed with rubber rollers and have
variable speed gearmotors for the feed, which
makes them versatile planers and they can make
straight and curved moudings too. In terms of
drum sanding the drum on the planer/moulders
is smaller diameter than the ones used on most
drum sanders and it can build up heat a little more
readily. Sandpaper wraps are shorter than
with larger drums and so assuming the wraps
last you’ll need to change more often, but in
real life wraps often get damaged and need
replacement before the grit is worn down, and
there the smaller drum saves some money
by using shorter wraps.

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861 posts in 2840 days

#2 posted 03-09-2014 10:13 PM

Thanks Loren, I appreciate the info.

View rrww's profile


263 posts in 3405 days

#3 posted 03-09-2014 10:28 PM

I have two of their planers and a dedicated drum sander from them.

Like Loren said they are about the best you can get before you step up to larger industrial sized stuff. I have had a lot of use with very few problems. Parts if you need them are easy to get, and customer service has been good to me the couple of times I needed it. In my opinion at the price & being made in America I would give them a A on quality. Customer service A. As far as being louder or not, they compare to the same noise level as other machines I have had on cast bases.

I think the sandpaper is around $75 a roll for the dedicated sander.

I have never used the stander drum on the planer. I think its a 3” drum. The dedicated sander is a 6” drum. While you will save a couple bucks by using the smaller drum, remember that it will generate much more heat, the paper dosn’t cool off as much. Its much easier to burn the paper, and if burnt too badly it will melt the hook & loop under the paper. Drum sanders can be nice, however they can be a PITA. You can still easily burn with the 6” drum on the dedicated sander. Thats what the big wide belts (timesavers) used in shops have big – i.e. 75” belts – to keep the heat down. If you going to use the sanding function quite a bit – then go for the dedicated sander.

I use the gang rip function quite a bit – works pretty good, and sure is nice when your making a lot of something the same width.

I have only played with the molding head a couple times, it worked fine for a few test profiles I made. I don’t have much experience with it to comment any further.

Make sure you have a decent dust collector if your looking at the 18” or larger machines. Very important on the sander.

I wound’t have a problem buying from them again, in fact I plan on a couple more of the 18” machines this year. And don’t worry they are always on some kind of sale.

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861 posts in 2840 days

#4 posted 03-09-2014 10:34 PM

Thanks rrww. I would love to have a wide belt, but it is quite a price jump.

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263 posts in 3405 days

#5 posted 03-09-2014 10:42 PM

Wide belts can be had pretty cheap, but its the dust collector, power, and repairs that gets a guy$$. Good luck.

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276 posts in 3898 days

#6 posted 03-10-2014 12:32 AM

My father has their sander and I have their 18” molder planer. As for the sander it does the job but I personally do not like sanders that use hook and loop attachment, it can remove more early wood than late wood leaving a not flat surface. As for the molder planer I upgraded to the 7hp leeson motor and ran custom trim for custom builders for 4 years until the bottom fell out of that market. The machine was great for that work. I would set up gang rip blades and cut all of my blanks then set up to mill the trim. The only parts I have had to replace were v belts and a new rubber feed roller. If you want to mill trim I would recommend their 2 knife cutter head that takes corrugated knife stock, it is allot easier to set up

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861 posts in 2840 days

#7 posted 03-10-2014 12:57 AM

Thanks guys, I could certainly use the gang rip.

View Loren's profile (online now)


11325 posts in 4939 days

#8 posted 03-10-2014 01:05 AM

I configured a Woodmaster 12” sander for precision work by
removing the hook and loop backing and using tape to apply
the rolls. It’s just the 12” planer with a 4” sanding head only.

I had to add washers to the feed rollers tension bolts in order
to make them apply appropriate tension with the 1/8” thick
felt h&l backing removed. It took me all day to figure it out
and otherwise get the machine dialed in the way I wanted,
but it does accurate work now. I did it mostly because I
had rolls of unbacked paper I bought for a Performax sander
and didn’t want to buy H&L just to try out the Woodmaster.

View buildingmonkey's profile


242 posts in 2839 days

#9 posted 03-10-2014 01:23 AM

I had a Woodmaster 718, used it for a thicknesser, and made some trim. It is a great molder, but kind of a slow thicknesser. I bought a Grizzly 15” planer, because the feed speed is much faster. The dust collection works better on the Grizzly too. Do not have the drum sander, but have read that the dedicated drum sanders are far better than the performax, jet etc.

-- Jim from Kansas

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2387 posts in 4838 days

#10 posted 03-10-2014 01:56 AM

Hey, finally a subject I have some insight for :)

However, looks like all the bases are already covered. I also have 2 Woodmaster planers. One is a 12” planer with 5 hp leeson and the other is a 25” with a 7.5 hp Leeson. As for their prices, they are very fair, however I could not even have afforded their new prices no matter how fair the value so we opted for 2 very nicely kept used machines from CL.

Currently we use our 12” for molding. We use the 25” for planing.

My experience, the 25” seemed to have more chatter issues when cutting molding, probably something that could have been dealt with through mods.

The 12” seems to shine at cutting molding as it seems to run with less vibration/chatter.

The 25” does not seem to back down to anything, the thing is a ruler of it’s domain, or at least of it’s class when it comes to planing tasks.

One thing I would like to mention, and this is not meant as any knock against Woodmaster, or any current planers, but their planer is made from stamped metal. Sure things have cheapened over the years. I say this because we also own an 18” PM 180 (it is waiting in the wings biting at the bit to get into service). The PM180, weighing in at around 1200 lbs makes our 25” woodmaster look like a lightweight. I just think it would be better if woodmaster would build a heavier body similar to the one on our PM180.

It is cool you commented because you have experience with the gang rip feature. Honestly I am looking to set up our 25” as a dedicated gang rip for FF material and the occasional set of doors we might build (we mostly out source our doors). We plan on setting up the PM180 to handle all planing tasks and keep our 12” cutting molding. I played with the gang rip feature on the 25” a long time ago and the one thing that stood out to me was accuracy and the fact that there were no saw blade marks left on the boards. On a table saw, even with some of the sharpest blades, we tend to see saw blade marks that in the end need to be sanded off. The absence of these marks should benefit us on the sanding table.

-- .

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