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3K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  Kryptic 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Should you fill open grain woods before glue-up or after? Also do you typically grain fill non visible pieces of wood such as the inside frame of a side table?

I'm planning on either using Aquacoat, Seal-A-Cell, or a oil slurry to grain fill. I'll be experimenting on scrap wood first. Any suggestions?

I'm building a Mahogany bedside table and plan on filling the grain. My current plan which may change based on the results of the scrap wood or your feedback is:
1. Light coat of amber shellac
2. Grain fill (either Aquacoat, Seal-A-Cell, or oil slurry) - Any tips on what type of oil to use with the slurry?
3. Sand smooth - does anyone plane instead?
4. Apply Arm R Seal Satin - I'm hoping this won't give me a plastic look

Thanks,
Jonathan
 
#2 ·
Jonathan

I believe you typically fill the grain before staining. I would guess that if you are staining before glue-up, do it then (with the glue faces protected) otherwise do it after.

Unfortunately, as for the rest of your question, I am probably less aware of the correct answer than you are. Best of luck with your project, and I hope to see it in your projects when you're done.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Do the glue up first, then I sand to 180 and fill grain with Timbermate Grain Filler. Then finish sanding with finer grits.

I would not fill the grain on the hidden surfaces.

Filling grain by sanding with oil or various finishes is a much messier and time consuming process. Timbermate has been my friend!
 
#5 ·
i've had ok luck with timbermate. One thing you have to watch out for is mold/fungi growing on the timbermate. I do wood working in my basement and in the summer it can be pretty humid. I built an end table where i ended up with purple, pen ink colored, fungi/mold stains.

I've been experimenting shellac with pumice as a filler (french polish).

Glue first for sure.
 
#6 ·
Speaking off the record, I am not a fan of "filler" as my observations of using it, have cost me a tad too much money and have become a fan of "ZERO" tolerance for it

its evil, and within ones own lifetime, will rear its ugly head

when necessary, I would prefer to leave the head, of a hand forged rectangular nail proud, then add filler

i hate filler and have argued the merits of adding it, at the cost of keeping my job : )

at some point of the learning curve, it isnt needed
 
#10 ·
Kryptic, you don't have to fill open grain woods. This is my second project and first project with an open grain. I figured I would try filling. I may just fill the top because I want it smooth. When you say the steel wool is an element of oxidation, what does that mean? I take it that it's a good thing?
 
#12 ·
for me, filler is the irrevocable cause of alarm bells going off at a million miles an hour of a mistake made eons ago

and will argue the merits of using it, till the sun rises and sets a bizillion times

as the rewards of using it, brings the onslaught of opinions who are young
 
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