Should you fill open grain woods before glue-up or after? Also do you typically grain fill non visible pieces of wood such as the inside frame of a side table?
I'm planning on either using Aquacoat, Seal-A-Cell, or a oil slurry to grain fill. I'll be experimenting on scrap wood first. Any suggestions?
I'm building a Mahogany bedside table and plan on filling the grain. My current plan which may change based on the results of the scrap wood or your feedback is:
1. Light coat of amber shellac
2. Grain fill (either Aquacoat, Seal-A-Cell, or oil slurry) - Any tips on what type of oil to use with the slurry?
3. Sand smooth - does anyone plane instead?
4. Apply Arm R Seal Satin - I'm hoping this won't give me a plastic look
I believe you typically fill the grain before staining. I would guess that if you are staining before glue-up, do it then (with the glue faces protected) otherwise do it after.
Unfortunately, as for the rest of your question, I am probably less aware of the correct answer than you are. Best of luck with your project, and I hope to see it in your projects when you're done.
As to the rest of your questions, every project is done as an individual for me. It's based on the look I am trying to achieve. That's why we learn on every project we do.
i've had ok luck with timbermate. One thing you have to watch out for is mold/fungi growing on the timbermate. I do wood working in my basement and in the summer it can be pretty humid. I built an end table where i ended up with purple, pen ink colored, fungi/mold stains.
I've been experimenting shellac with pumice as a filler (french polish).
Speaking off the record, I am not a fan of "filler" as my observations of using it, have cost me a tad too much money and have become a fan of "ZERO" tolerance for it
its evil, and within ones own lifetime, will rear its ugly head
when necessary, I would prefer to leave the head, of a hand forged rectangular nail proud, then add filler
i hate filler and have argued the merits of adding it, at the cost of keeping my job : )
at some point of the learning curve, it isnt needed
When I use it I sand to 180/220 grit glue it up, then stain it, then apply the filler, then use #0000 steel wool to remove the excess after it hazes over then add my topcoat
Kryptic, you don't have to fill open grain woods. This is my second project and first project with an open grain. I figured I would try filling. I may just fill the top because I want it smooth. When you say the steel wool is an element of oxidation, what does that mean? I take it that it's a good thing?
for me, filler is the irrevocable cause of alarm bells going off at a million miles an hour of a mistake made eons ago
and will argue the merits of using it, till the sun rises and sets a bizillion times
as the rewards of using it, brings the onslaught of opinions who are young
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
LumberJocks Woodworking Forum
2.5M posts
96K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!