How to make this Snapp cutting board

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Forum topic by SPalm posted 01-02-2014 02:09 PM 2572 views 7 times favorited 40 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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5338 posts in 5222 days

01-02-2014 02:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: snapp cutting board

Here is a board that I found that has a taper in it to help with scraping off the cuttings. Kind of clever, not sure if useful, but unique none the less. The taper on the reverse side doubles as a hand hold. Here are pics from the manufacture.




This is how I tried to make it. I made a matching set of 30/60 degree angles. Clamped that to a 90 degree reference and slid it through the table saw with the blade at max height and a slight tilt. Then flipped the board and used the other set of angles for the other side of the board. I guess it worked, but the blade only goes 3.5 inches high. Then I glued on the side strips. This was only on scrap cherry, so it is kind of ugly. Thicker board might help too.




How would you do it?

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

40 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile


8653 posts in 4989 days

#1 posted 01-02-2014 02:22 PM

very cool.

Steve, I think your method is as safe and easy as can be that I wouldn’t think twice about an alternative way to do this.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View lew's profile


13488 posts in 5096 days

#2 posted 01-02-2014 02:29 PM

+1 for what Sharon said!

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View SPalm's profile


5338 posts in 5222 days

#3 posted 01-02-2014 02:33 PM

But the cut does really not go ‘wide’ (tall) enough. 3.5 inches is pretty small. Maybe I should get a table saw with a 12 inch blade :)

Or drag the cut across the jointer a couple of times to widen it. Kind of a scary thought.


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View stefang's profile


17040 posts in 4675 days

#4 posted 01-02-2014 02:33 PM

You did this in a great way Steve. If I wanted a solid board I would probably just use a sharp chisel, a cabinet scraper and some sandpaper. That said there aren’t too many boards that wide readily available, so I think your method would probably be the most effective method for most of us.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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Jim Jakosh

27258 posts in 4446 days

#5 posted 01-02-2014 02:44 PM

Hi Steve. I would probably mount it on the wierd angle on a fixture in my mill vise and cut it with a 1 1.2” router bit in the mill/.

I think it can be cone on a router table with a similar set up to make that corner low and just keep passing it over and moving the fence.

I’ll bet Izzy Swan might have a table saw fixture to do it already!! He can make a bowling ball on the table saw….Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Woodwrecker's profile


4240 posts in 4916 days

#6 posted 01-02-2014 03:26 PM

I think you have the right way to go there Steve.
Thanks for showing us.

View KnotCurser's profile


2040 posts in 4409 days

#7 posted 01-02-2014 03:35 PM

Ever thought of using your CNC Router for this?

That’s the first idea that came to my mind….........


-- Robert Rhoades WoodWorks / Email: [email protected] /

View SPalm's profile


5338 posts in 5222 days

#8 posted 01-02-2014 03:40 PM

I have thought about the CNC, router table, drum sander, etc. The problem is with them is that the board really is up in the air and kind of unwieldy. And I believe it would not fit.

Of course there is always hand tools.


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View rance's profile


4281 posts in 4501 days

#9 posted 01-02-2014 03:50 PM


If I were doing multiples, I would opt to put it on a sled and run it through the planer. No other good way IMO. I’d prop it up on three corners & fasten with double sided tape and the front corner that is the lowest, I’d clamp that down with a wooden clamp & a brass screw. Also have a cleat in the rear to prevent shearing tendencies of the tape. That tape is REALLY strong if you get the thick stuff.

2nd choice would be fasten it down and run a hand-router over it like folks do with that router trough.

For only one, I would strongly consider just sanding it down with a 6×48 belt sander. Mark the outline and then sand down to it. 1st choice 36 grit, 2nd choice 80 grit.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Paul Miller's profile

Paul Miller

33 posts in 4794 days

#10 posted 01-02-2014 03:55 PM

I’m not really a big hand tool guy, but I think I’d just use a hand plane.


View PurpLev's profile


8653 posts in 4989 days

#11 posted 01-02-2014 04:08 PM

If you want wider, you can also do the same cut – with same setup, but on the bandsaw and either tilt the BS table, or create the bevel in the sliding fixture. in which case you will only be limited by the capacity of your saw (mine can do up to 13” for reference).

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View shipwright's profile


8781 posts in 4138 days

#12 posted 01-02-2014 04:11 PM

I almost hate to say this Steve, but my go to tool would be the bandsaw with a simple angle brace
.............. but I do several things that I would not recommend to anyone else. In boat building I’ve often freehand sculpted things that way but I think yours is the right way.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View GOOD LUCK TO ALL's profile


418 posts in 3068 days

#13 posted 01-02-2014 04:29 PM

Surprised no one has mentioned the RAS with a dado blade. Propped up right, I think it could be done very safely, with just a little clean up afterwards. You wouldn’t be limited to the size of your blade for the height.

View a1Jim's profile


118309 posts in 4917 days

#14 posted 01-02-2014 04:41 PM

I haven’t seen this design before ,Thanks for sharing the idea and your process.


View Nicky's profile


718 posts in 5432 days

#15 posted 01-02-2014 04:45 PM

That is a very cool design. I think your method is sound, I’d be curious to see what others may suggest.

-- Nicky

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