Making my own veneer questions

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Forum topic by AandCstyle posted 12-30-2013 02:44 AM 1651 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View AandCstyle's profile


3295 posts in 3273 days

12-30-2013 02:44 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw blade sander veneering

I am certain these questions have been answered previously, but I couldn’t find the answers tonight. I intend to resaw some bubinga to make my own veneer. The process, as I understand it, is to resaw it to a reasonable thickness, say about 1/8”, then run it through the drum sander on a sled to get it down to the final thickness. What is the desirable final thickness?

I have a 14” Jet BS. What blade would you suggest for this process? 1/2” 3tpi? WoodSlicer or Timberwolf?

What is the cutting procedure to achieve a 4 way bookmatch?

Thanks for any guidance.

-- Art

12 replies so far

View jumbojack's profile


1691 posts in 3640 days

#1 posted 12-30-2013 02:48 AM

The thickness is entirely up to you. WOODSLICER!!! Ive tried both; Woodslicer hands down.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View Loren's profile


11038 posts in 4664 days

#2 posted 12-30-2013 02:56 AM

To get a 4-way bookmatch, make sure you get 4 sequential
pieces from a given source board. Bookmatching will
be easy.

In terms of final thickness, thicker veneer will work
more like solid wood, so I’d say go thicker if you
can unless the wood really needs to be stretched
to make the piece you want.

I suggest trying it out with 4” wide boards first. I know
there’s the whole “more is better” thing with resawing,
but the reality is the setups get real finicky and
errors of fence face parallelism to the blade path
through the width of the board (not “leading”, which
is another factor which is not hard to solve) get
magnified the wider you go.

Woodslicers are good but expensive. The important
things in resawing are a low TPI and very sharp teeth.
I solder up my own blades from coil stock and it is
very cost effective.

View oldnovice's profile


7700 posts in 4384 days

#3 posted 12-30-2013 03:03 AM

I have watched David Marks make veneer and he typically cut 1/8” and then drum sanded to the desired finish/thickness.

I don’t have a BS but I have cut 1/8” thick narrow strips on my TS.

-- "It's fine in practise but it will never work in theory"

View BArnold's profile


175 posts in 2849 days

#4 posted 12-30-2013 03:33 AM

I’ve resawn veneers to 1/8” with a 1/2” Woodslicer with no problem. Next, I run them through my drum sander to 1/16”. I originally bought a Timberwolf on advice from other forum members, but was not satisfied with the results. The Woodslicer made me happy! My Woodslicer was starting to get in need of sharpening, so I tried a very similar blade I had bought from Ellis, a 1/2”, 3tpi, and it is performing every bit as good as the Woodslicer at a lower cost.

-- Bill, Thomasville, GA

View alohafromberkeley's profile


257 posts in 3421 days

#5 posted 12-30-2013 03:43 AM

+1 what Loren said- the thicker the veneer, the more it behaves like solid wood. 1/16 ” shouldn’t give you problems. I would veneer the other side with a backer veneer to balance the glue up.

-- "After a year of doing general farmwork, it was quite clear to me that chickens and I were not compatible"-George Nakashima

View Nicky's profile


710 posts in 5108 days

#6 posted 12-30-2013 04:12 AM

Hi Art,

I just did some resawing over the weekend. I had a cocobola board about 1” x 5” x 36”. I’ve been using Woodworkers supply house brand for a while and I really like these blades. I use a 1/2” 4tpi. My process starts by jointing 1 face flat, take my first cut, then joint the next face. I do take really light cuts, not looking to dress the face, just keeping the next surface flat to ride against a tall fence for the BS. I have a delta with a 1/2hp motor, and it does the job (slow and steady.)

I run these thin rips through the drum sander, no sled. Again, slow feed rate and really light cuts. My 1” thick board (just a bit over) yielded 4 board @3/16”

Take a look at for the 4 way bookmatch.

-- Nicky

View jmartel's profile


9161 posts in 3166 days

#7 posted 12-30-2013 04:27 AM

I got an Olson 1/2” 3tpi blade from Rockler and it has so far performed quite well. Got a 1/16” piece that was consistent thickness on the first try.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View oldnovice's profile


7700 posts in 4384 days

#8 posted 12-30-2013 04:32 AM

jmartel, in my opinion that is very good looking coming right off the BS!

-- "It's fine in practise but it will never work in theory"

View AandCstyle's profile


3295 posts in 3273 days

#9 posted 12-31-2013 02:00 AM

Thanks for the input. I think I am set on this for the time being, but I reserve the right to ask follow up questions, if needed, when I get seriously involved with the project. :D

-- Art

View Foegk's profile


29 posts in 3316 days

#10 posted 05-08-2014 11:58 PM

I have found a superb way of making your own veneer. Choose a nice clean and straight base board, I use a piece 8 inches wide and 2 inches thick.
Cut down to 3/8 thick the particular piece of wood that you wish to make into a veneer. Then use double sided tape and fix the 3/8 thick piece to the base board, run the two through your planer and it is possible to get the thickness down to tissue paper thickness.
Once the desired thickness is achieved, carefuly peel the newly made venneer off the base board.

-- Bryan

View AandCstyle's profile


3295 posts in 3273 days

#11 posted 05-10-2014 12:20 AM

Bryan, this sounds like a good technique. I will try it next time. Thank you!

-- Art

View doordude's profile


1085 posts in 3999 days

#12 posted 05-10-2014 06:58 PM

a and c , you need to purchase ” david marks” dvd on bandsaw set up. it shows how to set up, the right blade, the flat fence. all these little things make a huge difference in the end. He recommends working with 3/32” thick veneer. Flatten face on jointer, bandsaw, run thru thickness sander, and apply for veneering or marquetry.
Good luck!

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