Bandsaw Set Up Issues

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Forum topic by JayG46 posted 12-05-2013 12:38 AM 6454 views 2 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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139 posts in 2274 days

12-05-2013 12:38 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw set up laguna 1412 customer service blades

I share a shop with my uncle and we recently went half and half on a Laguna 1412 bandsaw along with the 3/4” resaw king blade. After reading nothing but great reviews, we were excited to get the machine up and running. However…

There were issues right from the gate. The saw labored through some pretty mundane tasks like resawing 4” of white oak, which the 14” Grizzly it was supplanting was able to do with relative ease. We messed with the guides, the blade tension, the fence alignment, the table squareness, and where the blade was tracking on the wheel but nothing seemed to fix the problem.

On the phone with the guy from Laguna, I casually suggested that it was behaving like the blade was dull, a possibility I had dismissed out of hand since the blade was brand new (and costs $150). Surprisingly, he suggested that the teeth may not have the proper set or the blade may have not been sharpened correctly, an issue they had encountered recently. The offered to send us a complementary 1/2” blade to test out that theory.

Well, it took the blade a week to arrive and once it did, it was 125” instead of 115”, thereby rendering it useless. They apologized and offered to send us a new RK blade, along with a 1/2” blade, provided that we send the other two back.

A week later, the blades had not arrived so I called to ask when I could expect them. I was informed that they had not been shipped at all since they were out of the material to make the RK blades but no one had bothered to let me know. I followed up a couple of days later and miraculously they had found some material and the blades were on their way. Another week of waiting (they apparently still didn’t want to spring for FedEx air) and finally we had our two blades.

We’ve put the RK blade to use but still can’t seem to resaw anything over 3 or 4” using the fence with predictable results. I followed the instructions for setting the fence for drift, but it seems to vary significantly between the 1” test piece and the wider stock we are trying to resaw. As you get deeper into the cut, the workpiece separates from the fence past the blade. Some minor fence adjustments haven’t corrected the problem.

It would make sense that the pressure on the blade would increase while resawing and make the blade want to drift more, but this seems pretty extreme. Laguna is fond of sawing that good bandsaws should hardly drift at all.

I cut a bunch of 1/8” thick pieces from 2” stock with decent results but there were still quite a few tooth marks that had to be removed with the drum sander. And again, this is something that our 14” Grizzly could also do without issue.

The guides are slightly worn from testing the saw out with an improperly sharpened blade but it doesn’t seem like it should allow it to drift so much. The tension on the saw is as high as they recommend it to be, and there is a school of thought that says that you shouldn’t need to over-tension a bandsaw to get it to track straight.

Is there another aspect of the set up that could be causing this problem that we are neglecting to address? Is it possible that the blade wasn’t the problem in the first place and there is something else wrong?

I really want to love this thing. I really need to use it as soon as possible but something just isn’t right.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts/help.

-- Jay Gargiulo, Naples, FL "Once you understand the way broadly, you can see it in all things."- Miyamoto Musashi

10 replies so far

View JustJoe's profile


1554 posts in 2454 days

#1 posted 12-05-2013 12:46 AM

There’s a video on you-tube by Snodgrass that has everything you need to know to set up the bandsaw perfectly. I can’t find the link right now.

Is there no place else you can get a new 115” blade from fairly quickly? Even a cheap one should be able to make a few cuts in 4” oak before going bad. Unfortunately, despite the great reviews for the saw you might find some negative reviews for Laguna’s customer service.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View JayG46's profile


139 posts in 2274 days

#2 posted 12-05-2013 12:58 AM

Thanks, Joe.

Is this the video you are talking about?

We could have easily ordered a wood slicer blade from Highland, but we got strung along at every junction and assured that the fix was right around the corner. If we had know it was going to take close to a month for the blades to arrive, we would have certainly gone in another direction.

I had heard mixed reviews of their customer service, but had high hopes.They obviously make good stuff and when you talk to them on the phone, it’s great. It’s what happened after we hung up that was the problem.

-- Jay Gargiulo, Naples, FL "Once you understand the way broadly, you can see it in all things."- Miyamoto Musashi

View JustJoe's profile


1554 posts in 2454 days

#3 posted 12-05-2013 01:04 AM

That’s the video – lots of good info in it, lots of things to do to tweak the saw but at least you only need to do it once.

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View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2863 days

#4 posted 12-05-2013 01:44 AM

I have a feeling your problem is still the blade,unless the reason for labouring is the belt slipping or the saw is wired for 220V (although unlikely but worth checking out),I would install a totally different brand of blade,and like Joe said even a cheaply made blade should cut nicely for the first few cuts.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View skipj's profile


97 posts in 2689 days

#5 posted 12-05-2013 02:36 PM

I also think it is unlikely the saw is wired 220 pluged into 110 but I would check it.

View Phil53's profile


90 posts in 4038 days

#6 posted 12-05-2013 03:05 PM

You need to wire if for 220 (230 in the manual). This will give you full power. My brother had a table saw that had the same problem once he wired it for 220 it worked great.

Laguna says it is wired from the factory for 115. These dual motors almost always run better with the higher voltage and they will actually use less electricity.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5210 posts in 4377 days

#7 posted 12-05-2013 03:39 PM

230 volt tools using LESS electricity??? I don’t think so.

-- [email protected]

View toolie's profile


2158 posts in 3045 days

#8 posted 12-05-2013 11:08 PM

and they will actually use less electricity.

suggested reading:

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View sakle2k's profile


22 posts in 2445 days

#9 posted 12-17-2013 11:33 PM

From Inspectapedia – So what advantages do we get from running an electric motor at 240V rather than 120V?

Electrical Energy Usage Measured in Watts

The watts consumed (and therefore the size of your electric bill) for running a water pump or other electric motors will be almost exactly the same regardless of whether you are running the pump wired at 120 Volts or 240Volts.

Using an imperfect “water pressure” analogy, sending water through a pipe to move a water wheel, if we double the pressure (volts) at which we are supplying water energy to push the wheel, the number of gallons per minute (amps) we need to do the same work is cut in half.

So if we keep our pipe and water wheel and all else the same, but send water through the pipe to push the wheel at 240 psi, we would need half as much water quantity (measured in gallons per minute or “amps”) to turn the wheel at the same rate as if we were pushing on the wheel at 120 psi.

Electrical motor voltages are similar in this regard. If we have an electric motor that is designed to run at either 120V or 240V (not all of them are) then the label on the motor will tell us that at 120V (pressure or potential) the pump motor will draw about twice as much amperage (current) as at 240V.

Our label (photo at left) shows that this 1/2 horsepower jet pump electric motor can run at either 115V at 10.8 Amps of current draw, or at 230V at 5.4 Amps of current draw.

With this example, if an electric pump motor draws 10.8 Amps when running on a 120V circuit, it draws 5.4 Amps when in use on a 240CV circuit.

10.8 Amps = ?Watts / 120 or doing the algebra, 120×10.8 = 1296 Watts when our pump motor is running at full load and wired on a 120 Volt electrical circuit.

05.4 Amps = ? Watts / 240 or doing the algebra: 240×5.4 = 1296 Watts when our pump motor is running at full load wired on a (nominal) 240 Volt electrical circuit.

The electric meter at a building measures electricity usage in kilowatt hours (KWH). If you run a 1000W electric heater for one hour, you’ve just used 1 KWH of electricity. So the pump is costing essentially exactly the same to run at either voltage level.

-- Les

View pmayer's profile


1048 posts in 3481 days

#10 posted 12-18-2013 03:38 AM

Hi Jay,

Ugh. Sorry to hear about the problem that you are having with the 14/12. I wrote the review that you referred to, and I am continuing to have a great experience with the saw. Over the weekend I sliced up a bunch of 11” walnut and it did it effortlessly. I’ve also sliced 6-8” maple without a problem. Today my dad was following a pattern and making some curved cuts on some 3.5” walnut using a 3/8” blade and he couldn’t believe how quickly and precisely it was cutting it up. 4” oak should be absolutely no problem. I agree with your hunch that the blade is dull, which is hard to imagine with that blade, but it is certainly plausible. Apparently the ceramic on the Laguna guides can dull a blade within one full rotation of the blade if the ceramic is in contact with the teeth.

I think that the 220 thing is unlikely, but I’d put an amp meter on the saw to see what’s happening anyway.

I would also try doing a free hand resaw or using a resaw pin to rule out a fence angle problem. I doubt that is the culprit either but it is worth trying. Mine needed no adjustments for drift. The 13” cherry resaw that you saw in the review was done without any drift compensation, or really any tweaking of the saw at all. I have since played with the drift adjustment a bit just to see how easy it was to adjust, and I found it quite easy to realign it properly to the drift angle.

I only had one other thought, and it is probably unlikely that you wouldn’t notice it on a resaw blade, but I actually was recently puzzled by a cutting problem on a band saw and then realized that the blade was installed backwards. My excuse is that it was a finer tooth blade and therefore less noticeable, but in reality I just wasn’t paying attention and it is super simple to do.

I’d stick with the support guys and make sure that they see you through this. I have spoken with two of the Laguna support guys and I was quite impressed with both of them.

-- PaulMayer,

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