Table Saw blade options, thin kerf blade or standard 1/8"

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Forum topic by CalgaryGeoff posted 11-03-2013 05:34 AM 18906 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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937 posts in 2876 days

11-03-2013 05:34 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw blade size more rip cross cut tablesaw joining finishing

I’m just curious as to what type of blades we use most on our table saws, tooth count, kerf size, rip blade, cross cut blades and the list goes on with options available for table saw blades. Most of my work is on solid wood pieces usually thicknesses between 1/4” to 2 1/2” and starting with rough cut boards. I have a 10” table saw 2 hp, general 185 left tilt, contractor mounted on large rolling base with router table.

I use CMT 1/8” kerf blades, my go to blades are a 10” Glue line rip blade, 30 tooth, as well as a 10” Compound mitre Cross cut 80 tooth blade. I change between these two blades as required and they have performed perfectly for me and my projects.

8” Dado stack is used and makes oh such nice smooth flat bottoms.

I did find a thin kerf blade in my collection but don’t recall knowingly using it.

So what do you use for your table saw go to or default blade/s ?

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

26 replies so far

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4042 days

#1 posted 11-03-2013 07:25 AM

Full kerf blades yield cleaner cuts. The only reasons I use
a thin kerf is with a 110v saw.

View knotscott's profile


8290 posts in 3770 days

#2 posted 11-03-2013 10:45 AM

My blade inventory is down to a measly 25 ready to go blades that I have on hand. I’m currently running a 3hp cabinet saw, and have gradually replaced my thin kerf blades with full kerf simply because there’s less incentive use TK blades now. When I had a 2hp contractor saw and 1-3/4hp hybrid, the saws had a noticeably easier time spinning a good TK blade. I tend to keep a good 40T Infinity Super General or 50T DeWalt ATB/R general purpose blade in the saw for convenience, but I’ll switch to a specialty blade when there’s a need…..60T Infinity Hi-ATB or 80T CMT Hi-ATB blade for more critical fine crosscuts and plywood, or a 20T Amana ripper if I have a lot of heavy ripping to do. I keep an 80T Leitz on my CMS.

There are pros and cons to each kerf width. I don’t believe you can make a valid absolute statement that all full kerf blades make cleaner cuts than all TK blades. There are good and poor examples of each, and it’s hard to tell the difference between the good ones…which is best is a matter of preference and circumstances. Both kerf widths will work with most saws, but a full kerf blade is typically 33% thicker than it’s TK counterpart, and requires more power to make the same cut. If all else is equal, a thicker blade will tend to be more stable than a thinner blade, but if the blade is well made, it generally requires some lateral pressure to make any blade deflect significantly. Sharpness and basic quality are key in either kerf width….keeping them clean, will yield better results and will keep them sharp longer. It’s especially important that your blade is at least as wide as your splitter or riving knife, or the work piece will bind.

Tips for picking saw blades
Current saw blade bargains

Current blade roster:
80T CMT 210.080.10 Hi-ATB
80T Leitz Pro TK Neg hook ATB
60T Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB
60T DeWalt DW7646 ATB
60T Leitz/Delta ATB
60T Onsrud TCG
50T Tenryu RS25550 ATB/R
50T Infinity Combomax Lite ATB/R
50T DeWalt DW7640 ATB/R
42T Onsrud ATB
40T Infinity Laser TK 010-046
40T Craftex Blue Tornado ATB
40T Infinity Super General 010-044 Hi-ATB
40T Forrest WWII TK ATB
40T Delta 35-7657 40T ATB
40T Oshlun ATB
30T Delta 35-7653 ATB ripper
24T Leitz/Irwin Woodworking series FTG TK ripper
20T Amana Tools RB1020 FTG ripper
10T Leitz/Delta FTG
Dado set – Infinity Dadonator

< 10”
60T Freud Diablo D0640 (6”)
24T CMT (8-1/4”)
24T Bosch CRB724 (7-1/4”)
20T PC Razor (7-1/4”)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Blackie_'s profile


4883 posts in 2907 days

#3 posted 11-03-2013 12:04 PM

I’m not one that likes to changes blades on the table saw, call me lazy :) I have an older Hitachi C10FL 10” Table Saw that’s no longer made that I purchased from Lowes many years ago, since I do a lot of box and finger joints, mitered splines and such I’ve been using the Forrest single grind 1/8” flat kerf blade and just use it for everything, in the miter saw I have a low end avanti 60 tooth finishing blade.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View HorizontalMike's profile


7789 posts in 3308 days

#4 posted 11-03-2013 12:38 PM

I hate math… and figuring with a full kerf 1/8in. blade in the mix, is a lot easier! ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View CharlieM1958's profile


16283 posts in 4612 days

#5 posted 11-03-2013 02:07 PM

I have a 1.5 HP contractor saw, so power is somewhat of an issue. For a long time, I used a Forrest WWII full kerf combination as my main blade, and I was very happy with it. (The reason I went with full-kerf at the time is that the thin-kerf blade that came with my saw had hang-up issues with the blade-guard/splitter assembly.)

After I ditched the OEM splitter for a Micro Jig splitter setup, I decided to see how a good quality thin-kerf would perform. I bought a Freud Fusion TK combo blade that I saw several folks recommend, and I run it with a blade stabilizer. The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest full-kerf, and the saw does not struggle at all now. It’s like a hot knife through butter. Needless to say, that’s the blade that stays on my saw now, unless I’m using my dado stack.

At 2 HP, I guess you might be sort of on the borderline. I think it would be worth your while to try a good thin-kerf blade. You might find enough improved performance to make you think about sticking with it.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View SamuraiSaw's profile


515 posts in 2359 days

#6 posted 11-03-2013 02:50 PM

2 things will dictate full kerf vs thin kerf; hp and depth of cut. Lower hp saws definitely benefit from thin kerf as they are take less muscle to spin through the wood. However, as the depth of cut increases the likelihood of blade warp increases exponentially. Stabilizers help, but also limit the depth of cut. When using a contractor style saw I typically use a thin kerf blade, but our cabinet saws are all full kerf.

If you’re getting good results with full kerf blades, there’s no reason to change. I doubt you’ll see any improvement and more likely will see degraded cuts.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas....

View lew's profile


12775 posts in 4149 days

#7 posted 11-03-2013 03:34 PM

a couple of standard Combo blades, an old thin kerf blade and a standard rip blade

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5206 posts in 4355 days

#8 posted 11-03-2013 03:39 PM

Full kerf combo, thin kerf ripper, thin 80 th. crosscut are the standards for my shop. I have multiples from Freud, Onsrud, and Infinity.

-- [email protected]

View GT350's profile


371 posts in 2376 days

#9 posted 11-03-2013 03:46 PM

I use a Forrest WWII full kerf on my 1 3/4 hp Sawstop. It has plenty of power to use a full kerf blade so I don’t see any reason for the thin kerf blade. I don’t like changing blades a lot either so unless I need to use my dado set I just leave the one blade on and it works good for me.

View luv2learn's profile


2944 posts in 2697 days

#10 posted 11-03-2013 04:14 PM

Geoff, I use a variety of 8” Skill saw blade configurations in my table saw unless I really have a thick piece to cut. Why, because they are cheaper. But that is just me. Currently I have an 8” thin kerf 40 tooth combination blade on my saw that has lasted for a long time.

-- Lee - Northern idaho~"If the women don't find you handsome, at least they ought to find you handy"~ Red Green

View bigblockyeti's profile


5746 posts in 2115 days

#11 posted 11-03-2013 04:25 PM

I usually have a Delta ATB combination blade mounted up as I have several on hand. If I’m cutting something that’s could damage or quickly dull the blade, I’ll use a thinner kerf Freud Diablo blade. If I’m making several cuts where minimum kerf is required and surface finish and speed aren’t high priorities, I’ll use a much smaller, very thin kerf blade for a cordless circular saw. This is only done when the bandsaw won’t work for what I’m trying to accomplish.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 3084 days

#12 posted 11-03-2013 04:34 PM

I use the 40 and 24 tooth Diablo blades in my 2 HP Grizzly and have been well pleased with them.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2318 days

#13 posted 11-03-2013 04:37 PM

knotscott good lord! lol I have a couple full kerf Forest blades, one for ripping one for cross cuts on a 3HP cabinet saw.

View amagineer's profile


1415 posts in 2991 days

#14 posted 11-03-2013 11:14 PM

I use a Forrest WWII thin kerf and a Freud Fusion TK combo blade.

-- Flaws are only in the eye of the artisan!

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 2504 days

#15 posted 11-03-2013 11:49 PM

My normal usage includes examples of Forrest WWII 40t, Chopmaster 80T, Freud 18, 24, and 30T rip blades, and a melamine blade, all full kerf. I have two of most, one is either unused or out for sharpening, the other is in use. A pair of 24T rips are married, and mated to spacers for dual blade tenoning.

I don’t keep track of the stack that I don’t use…

showing 1 through 15 of 26 replies

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