Bad Blade?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by RussellAP posted 08-30-2013 03:07 PM 1478 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View RussellAP's profile


3105 posts in 3370 days

08-30-2013 03:07 PM

I just put a riser kit on my bs and the blade that came with it was crap. I was down at a local hardwood store and picked up a couple from them to fit the new size, 105. Took it home and installed it, it’s a 1/4, got it on and tension-ed, put all new blocks in and cut some cedar with it.

It cuts so rough I have to sand everything. I’ve never seen such a bad cut. The blade is sharp, but you can see it has either a kink or a bend in it as it cuts.

I’m wondering if I got the wrong blade, or just a bad one.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

8 replies so far

View Paula Perry's profile

Paula Perry

127 posts in 2851 days

#1 posted 08-30-2013 03:35 PM

that happened to me once, i just adjusted the tension underneath the table and then the top ones and i didnt have any problem after that. i believe i got rough cut from the blade wanting to twist up a bit or wobble a little too. good luck.

-- Florida50

View lumberjoe's profile


2902 posts in 3331 days

#2 posted 08-30-2013 05:23 PM

Could be a bad blade, but since you changed 2 things at once, it’s hard to diagnose. Just make sure it is properly tensioned and your guides are set correctly, and as low as you can get to the piece.

Also how thick were you cutting? a 1/4” blade is pretty narrow. I use it for cutting curves. For ripping and resawing I use a 5/8” blade. The wider blade tracks a lot less when ripping and I can feed a lot faster. Resawing anything over 1” is almost pointless with any of my 1/4” blades on my saw.


View StumpyNubs's profile


7851 posts in 3884 days

#3 posted 08-30-2013 05:28 PM

A 1/4” blade should be pretty easy to tension, so that may not be the problem. The tooth style can make a big difference. Finer teeth give finer cuts, fewer teeth are better for thicker wood so the dust clears from the kerf. Hook tooth vs. Skip tooth makes a difference too.

Here's a link to a great guide to figure it all out.

Hope that helps!

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications:

View Vincent Nocito's profile

Vincent Nocito

485 posts in 4447 days

#4 posted 08-30-2013 05:50 PM

I don’t know what brand of blade you picked. I have run across some bs blades that have a bit of a burr on the back side of the blade or rough welds. I use a band saw tuning stone from Woodcraft (#49H09, about $14) to clean up the blade. After treatment the blade tracks better with much less jink and flutter.

View MrRon's profile


6023 posts in 4327 days

#5 posted 08-30-2013 05:51 PM

A band must have a weld that is so smooth you cant detect where it was joined plus it must be perfectly straight. A slight bump in the weld will mess up your guide blocks (knock them out of alignment) and give you a bad cut. I have been using Starrett bands and they are perfect. You cannot even see where it was joined. They don’t cost much more than other bands on the market. The smoother the band passes around the wheels and guides, the smoother will be the cut.

You didn’t say what the thickness of the wood was and the number of teeth on the band.

View RussellAP's profile


3105 posts in 3370 days

#6 posted 08-31-2013 03:22 AM

StumpyNubs, I have the blade tensioned properly. I think it has either a rough weld, or a kink. I haven’t had time to investigate, but I plan to remove it tomorrow and take it back. I’m going to stick with Timberwolf from now on. It takes longer to get them, but I haven’t had a bad one yet from them.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5350 posts in 5043 days

#7 posted 08-31-2013 02:16 PM

I kinda think that hardware store blades might not be the best.

-- [email protected]

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2881 posts in 4005 days

#8 posted 09-01-2013 11:51 PM

The only reason, that I know of, to get a riser is for re-sawing wide boards. That is why I got mine and I only use 5/8” carbide blades on it. I have a 105” x 1/4” blade that I have never installed. I use a scroll saw for any curvy cuts.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Lubbock Texas

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics