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Forum topic by steliart | posted 07-16-2013 02:17 PM | 15505 views | 3 times favorited | 35 replies | ![]() |
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07-16-2013 02:17 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: table saw cast iron rust removal prevention ts cast iron rust removal rust prevention Since I moved to my new shop, temperatures here are very very high and humid, I have a TS cast iron problem. It builds very easily rust on it and needs constant cleaning. Any advise especially form ppl who live in similar weather conditions will be appreciated. Thanks for the response. -- Stelios L.A. Stavrinides: - I am not so rich to buy cheap tools, but... necessity is the mother of inventions !!! |
35 replies so far
#1 posted 07-16-2013 02:32 PM |
Now I’m not saying that this is the right way, but it is my way. Whenever I remove the rust I wipe mine with a furniture polish called Johnson’s paste wax. I wipe that on times three every other week or so and it usually keeps the surface rust down to a minimum if not completely gone. I live in Oklahoma which has a humid summer And keeps me on my toes at making sure my tools are clean and free of rest. -- Drew -- "I cut it twice and it's still too short!"- Rock-n H Woodshop - Moore, OK |
#2 posted 07-16-2013 03:01 PM |
I used to apply the Johnson’s wax to prevent rust but that had to be done so often that I tired of doing it. I then mixed up some pure turpentine and bees wax and that is what I keep on it now. Only have to apply it about twice a year. |
#3 posted 07-16-2013 06:30 PM |
I also live in a very humid climate. I use pure Carnuba wax from Brazil. It has no silicon or other additives that can cause finish problems. I apply it; let it dry; then buff it to a shine. A treatment lasts about three months. Keep the top clean and that will help prevent rust from forming. Leaving a scrap of wood on the top traps moisture. |
#4 posted 07-16-2013 09:17 PM |
I have not tried it myself but have read somewhere shellac can be used to seal cast iron surfaces from rust and corrosion. Also works to protect wrought iron, brass, and copper. I would like to see others respond about their experience using shellac for this application -- Measure "at least" twice and cut once |
#5 posted 07-16-2013 11:45 PM |
< Johnsons Paste Wax is a favorite of mine. Once you get it cleaned, you could also use some BoeShield. http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-C20.aspx?gclid=CMetyP2YtbgCFWNgMgodcwUA9Q .. -- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. [email protected] |
#6 posted 07-17-2013 12:06 AM |
Taoist what parts do you mix for that turpentine mix? I’d be curious to try that as I use T-9 and have to apply about every month or two how often do you use your machines? -- Nick, “I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.” – Vincent Van Gogh |
#7 posted 07-17-2013 12:19 AM |
SHELLAC is the best thing I ever used iit will penetrate down deep and seal, a little rough at first but after you wear it off no more rust -- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country |
#8 posted 07-17-2013 12:25 AM |
I tried ething on my jointer one day I said what tha hell I sprayed shellac on it ,hell no more rust I mean its been around a billon years and by JOE no more rust, I waxed, polished, oiled, ten times and the tables kept rusting till I put on shellac NO MORE RUST PEROID end of story but the real truth will be this winter but I plan on adding a second coat just to be safe YOU ARE VERY RIGHT >>KDC68<< IT IS THE CATS MEOW -- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country |
#9 posted 07-17-2013 12:27 AM |
Straightbowed....I appreciate you sharing your experience with shellac as a rust preventative. I have been curious but apprehensive of using it myself…but now I will have to give it a try -- Measure "at least" twice and cut once |
#10 posted 07-17-2013 12:29 AM |
SHELLAC for me right now is a once a year treatment but I will find out this winter how it holds up for now as much as it has rained in KY and the humidity no rust for now and after you wear it down the table is so slick and smooth miracle I tell you its a miracle -- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country |
#11 posted 07-17-2013 12:46 AM |
UpstateNYdude…The mixture was 50-50 but I believe some of the turpentine has evaporated out but it is still soft. I put it on and then rubbed it in and the wiped off the excess. That was last summer and I have a few places starting to rust again so it needs more attention. If I make it again I will use less turpentine and will add carnuba wax to the bees wax |
#12 posted 07-17-2013 12:56 AM |
Stevo any particular brand spray on shellac your using I’m curious to see how well this works myself? Also what do you mean it’s a bit rough? Do I need to run over it with some fine steel wool for smoothness? -- Nick, “I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.” – Vincent Van Gogh |
#13 posted 07-17-2013 01:25 AM |
Upstate...great questions…I brought up the question a couple of posts ago and am curious as you are about this…I can assume the answer will be dewaxed shellac. I think Zinsser Bullseye has the dewaxed seal coat version in a rattle can -- Measure "at least" twice and cut once |
#14 posted 07-17-2013 02:38 AM |
I used Zinser spray on shellac from Lowes, the yellow can, just got really tired of waxing one day and sprayed it but its just like finishing, spray on let dry smooth down with steelwool or 320 420 and there you go, its worked so far but my shop is not heated or cooled so it gets all the worst that mother nature has to offer, I think what it does is penetrates the cast iron and seals it very well -- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country |
#15 posted 07-17-2013 02:41 AM |
Straightbowed..thanks again -- Measure "at least" twice and cut once |
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