Completely new to using Bandsaws

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Forum topic by steve54uk posted 07-04-2013 09:39 PM 3374 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View steve54uk's profile


11 posts in 2202 days

07-04-2013 09:39 PM

Sorry to be a pain guys, but having started my woodworking up again I’ve shifted to some power tools. Of which one is my acquisition of a Record BS10 Bandsaw, but when I cut any hardwood the cut is ridged!
What am I doing wrong? Have I not got it set up correctly? Any help would be appreciated as I don’t want to think this was a bad idea!

-- Steve, Aylesbury UK

10 replies so far

View nailbanger2's profile


1041 posts in 3536 days

#1 posted 07-04-2013 09:49 PM

Here’s a good place to start. And from your tagline, you probably aren’t celebrating the 4th of July like we are!

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View Straightbowed's profile


717 posts in 2691 days

#2 posted 07-05-2013 02:15 AM

better watch some videos lots of techniques and a few things to buy to saw good quality work or you can make some jigs

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 3083 days

#3 posted 07-05-2013 02:22 AM

You will never get as clean/smooth a cut with the bandsaw as the tablesaw but the right blade and tool set up will go a long ways in improving your cut.

Mark Dujinski’s Bandsaw Book is a great reference that helped me a lot when I first got a bandsaw.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View RussellAP's profile


3105 posts in 2679 days

#4 posted 07-05-2013 04:19 AM

I’d get a quality blade, set the blade guides with about 1/8 inch clearance on either side of the blade, set the bearing 1/8 inch back of the blade and let the blade cut, don’t push it too hard. Also I’d keep a tight blade with no more than a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch play from side to side.
A lot of BS cutting is experience. If you are cutting curves, it will take some practice to keep the wood aligned with the blade while you’re cutting. Go slow but keep moving, ridges happen when you stop or move the work right or left while cutting.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Chris208's profile


243 posts in 2663 days

#5 posted 07-05-2013 05:19 AM

Ridges will happen, it’s a bandsaw, for gods sake.

I use the set up technique shown in this video:

I have owned a harbor freight 14 inch bandsaw and currently own the classic 14 inch delta saw, and this technique worked brilliantly on both saws. No drift with a sharp blade.

Russell is giving you bad advice by telling you to keep your guides an eighth from the blade. What you want is for the side guides (bearings or blocks) to engage with any side to side play, and for the thrust bearings to engage as soon as wood hits the front of the blade.

Try it. You’ll be very pleased.

View Picken5's profile


277 posts in 3085 days

#6 posted 07-05-2013 05:58 AM

Steve—I also experienced ridges in my cuts with my bandsaw. I checked and double-checked my saw’s setup. I installed a quality blade (several times), but was still plagued by ridges. My “aha” moment came when I realized I was trying to cut too fast. When I started pushing the wood through the blade slower—and let the blade do the work—my cuts got way smoother. Like Russell, I keep my blade tight, but I do set the thrust bearing so its just barely touching the back of the blade. I also keep the blade guides closer to the blade than Russell does – but definitely not touching the blade. But I absolutely agree with Russell—don’t move the wood through the blade any faster than it can cut. Ridges also happen when the blade’s teeth can’t move the chips out of the cut fast enough.

-- Howard - "Time spent making sawdust is not deducted from one's lifetime." - old Scottish proverb

View MrUnix's profile


7388 posts in 2592 days

#7 posted 07-05-2013 06:27 AM

>> set the blade guides with about 1/8 inch clearance on either side of the blade, set the bearing 1/8 inch back of the blade <<

1/8” is WAY too far.. guide blocks should be as close as possible without actually touching. And the thrust bearing should be close enough that it doesn’t touch when you spin the blade, but makes contact with just the slightest amount of back pressure against the blade. One of the best videos you can watch is this “band saw clinic” session with Alex Snodgrass of Carter products (don’t worry, not a sales pitch, just great info for a perfect setup):


Edit: Whoops.. guess that is the same video and advice that Chris posted :) I guess great minds do think alike! And like Chris, I get great drift free cuts on my Delta using this method.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View flwoodie's profile


26 posts in 2224 days

#8 posted 07-05-2013 07:58 AM

That same video by Alex Snodgrass is the same one that I watched when I first got started. It is the best best video in my opinion.
Good Luck

View steve54uk's profile


11 posts in 2202 days

#9 posted 07-05-2013 11:08 AM

Guys, you have been great with all your suggestions and tips, but above all for boosting my confidence.
I have already started putting into practice one or two changes and then testing them and everything seems to be heading in the right direction.
Nailbanger, thanks for your youtube link and yes we Brits don’t celebrate 4th July! Not sure we celebrate anything??
Thanks again to everyone’s contribution.

-- Steve, Aylesbury UK

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 2468 days

#10 posted 07-05-2013 11:24 AM

+1 on the video Unix posted. That’s the one that helped me. I also had to increase my tension more than I expected to get rid of the ridges.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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