Quality table saw blades are EXPENSIVE! I understand the cost. If and when I get my table saw I will invest in one.
On the other hand good dado sets are even more expensive and some what prohibitive. There are lots of used ones on Craig's list and Ebay but I am very hesitant to purchase a used blade. One never knows what someone has done to it. Is it for sale because they decided after a project or two that wood working was not for them, and they are liquidating? Did they play Frisbee with it on a cement floor?
Is my concern about buying and using used blades unfounded?
If a blade has been dropped onto a hard floor it will probably
have chipped or missing teeth.
Say you get a 10" 80t Systimatic blade for $20 - you can send
it to Forrest and they'll sharpen it and replace a few damaged
teeth for about $40. That's a high-end industrial blade
that retailed for over $100, even on sale, so it's not
a stupid buy especially.
That said, you'll see opportunities to buy used blades that
haven't seen much use and don't need repair or sharpening.
Onsrud closes out new old stock saw blades on ebay all
the time and they are high quality pro German blades.
I've never felt the need to buy expensive blades. I've been using these since I started woodworking and never felt the need to spend more. Cuts are clean and accurate.
As for a dado set, I've been using this one a lot lately. It cuts flat bottoms and comes with a nice case. I'm happy with it.
I would be very wary about used dado sets. They are difficult to sharpen right. The outside blades may have been resharpened, but unless the chippers (all the chippers) have been ground, it will never cut properly.
Even though I've sold a lot of really good blades that were only used for a few test cuts, I think some caution is merited, because most people don't buy blades just to test them out. I'd have no reservastions if you found a slightly used blade from someone who's a recognized contributor here, who's purchased a new saw and no longer needs the old blades. I'm sure there are some very legitimate deals on some used blades out there, but overall, I'd be concerned why someone would be selling a really good blade. Believe or not, the premium $100+ blades don't always conform to spec 100% of the time, so it's possible to buy a very slightly used "misfit" if someone found it easier to resell it than to return it.
Good blades don't have to cost an arm and a leg if you're patient and do some research….there are dark horse sleepers that perform extremely well that aren't well marketed and sell for less than the more trendy blades. There are also closeouts, clearance items, inventory reduction sales, and just plain old genuine bargains if you're selective. You didn't mention what saw you have, but the Delta 35-7657 Industrial blade that NiteWalker mentioned is a bonafide bargain in a full kerf 40T ATB general purpose blade….made in the USA, and holds it's own against alot of blades that cost much more. His link offers it through Cripe Distribution, who also has some other good blades on closeout (ie: 80T Oldham Pro ...same as the DW3218PT. They also have a 24T Bosch Pro rip blade for $14, and a Delta 18T Industrial rip blade made in Germany for $21…they combine s/h to lower the overall cost). The Oshlun line is a surprisingly good bargain line….most of their 10" blades are full kerf. If your saw is smallish, and/or you prefer thin kerf blades, there are some pretty good lines that are generally affordable that perform surprisingly well for the pirce…ie: Freud Diablo, some Freud Industrial, Irwin Marples, DeWalt Precision Trim (not to be confused with their "Construction" series), CMT ITK Plus, some CMT Industrial, Tenryu Rapid Cut series, to name a few. Sears has (or had) some blades that were made in Italy that I suspect come from Freud or the same plant as the Freud blades.
"So out of the saw blades listed, are the dado sets as good?"
It's always a matter of opinion how good something is, but I don't think Cripe currently has any decent dado sets….the unmarked Irwin set they sell is pretty bad. I don't know of any closeout deals on dado sets going on right now, but you might find something on Ebay. The Delta/DW 7670 is the best set I'm aware in the $100 range….it gives a good taste of what the best sets offer at about half the price. $100 is still alot money, but it's a very good set that'll perform well and should last a good long time.
Expensive blades….Bah! got a pile of them in the corner.
I switched to the thin kerf Freud Diablos when they first came out and never bought another expensive blade again. I'm just a small shop running a Unisaw and a couple of mitre boxes, mind you.
I just don't believe a sharpened blade is as sharp and as good as a new blade. And a new 46.00 Diablo stays sharp just as long as the 120.00 Forrest. The difference is in the thickness of the carbide tooth so you can sharpen it several times. I'm sure the Forrest is a superior blade…...but so what? You plane all your finished edges anyway. Save your money. Work it in to the price of the job as supplies.
A thin kerf blade is faster and makes half? as much dust. Use it up and throw it away.
And dado blades….. If you do casework, you'll find that a good plunge router and a clamping straight edge is easier and faster to set up for dados and rabbets.
I have the delta set but I hardly use it. The Freud dado set had good reviews too.
I'm going to hear a lot of screams about what I have to say. But it is true.
I have a Hammer K3 sliding table saw that uses a 12" blade. I have a 10" blade that came with the saw that worked great, however the need for a 12 " blade arose for just one project. I didn't want to invest $120 - $140 in a new 12" blade for just one small project, so I bought a 96 tooth 12" blade from Harbor Freight for $36. As the Hammer is a European saw that has a slightly larger arbor hole and two locking pin holes in addition to the arbor hole, I sent it off to Forrest Blades to have it punched to the larger arbor size and for the locking pins for an additional $36. I saved about $60 in the process.
I intended to get through the project and then go back to my 10" blade, but the Harbor Freight blade cut so smoothly and quietly I kept it on the saw. Its been nearly a year now and I am still very happy with the Harbor Freight blade.
You just may want to give a harbor Freight blade a try.
Just one thing to add: As a rule I do not buy a used thin kerf blade because if you push them at all, when they dull, the body overheats and they get whee-hawed and will never be right again.
If I spot a used 1/8 kerf blade, known brand, ample carbide, not covered in pitch like a floozy's face in rouge, I'll usually pungle up for it if the price is reasonable.
Thank you, Knotscott, for the wonderful treatise on this subject. It has reframed my thinking about buying blades in general and provided me a specific site to explore.
I bought four Oshlun 40 tooth GM for under $100 from Carbide Processors just as a test against my Forrest WWll (over $100 for one). After using the first Oshlun for more than two months, can't tell any different between the blades. Most of my cuts are two inch oak, walnut and cherry for rocking chairs.
Quality blades don't have to be expensive. Like NiteWalker, I followed Knotscott's advice and got a Delta 35-7657 a couple years ago for my Unisaw. Great blade, especially for the price! Unless I'm doing a lot of thick hardwood ripping, fine finish crosscuts or ply/Melamine, that's the blade that's on the saw.
Also, I have a Delta 18t 35-611 for heavy ripping, again a Knotscott recommendation (where would we be without his blade expertise?!). It has a voracious appetite for hard maple and with it's 18 teeth makes an interesting sound while cutting it. It also has no tooth bevel so it will cut a flat-bottomed kerf if you want to use it for splines or 1/8" dados, though splintering would be a concern.
If I came across a used blade and it was very clean and still had all the lettering that is silk screened on the plate, I would take a chance with it. I would also know that even a brand new blade may not be perfectly set. Brand new blades are rarely perfect out of the box. They usually can be improved by an initial sharpening by an expert sharpening service. I do my own sharpening, but I understand Forrest does a top notch job.
bought lots of blades off ebay great prices and great blades bought a forrrest box joint set brand new for 25.00 + 11.00 shippin frued safety dado 20.00 + 11.00 shippin brand new ebay is the cats bark for me
yep the frued diablo is great blade I have 2 for ripping love them but I still like my forrest 20T but I will sacrafice the diablo on old lumber in case of nails
I do much of my work in reclaimed wood theses days. Pallets mostly, but other stuff as well. I have one good Ridge carbide blade and I really like it,,,,,,but,,,, I just cant bring my self to use a $100 + blade to rip down a pallet. It is just too easy to miss a nail or three. I have many old steeel blades that I will chuck up on the 3650 for this. I bought one of those Harbor frieght circ blade sharpeners just for them. Turns out that I can put a nice edge on any blade I have with it. I doubt I would use it on my Ridge carbide, but it's good for everything else. I dont see me ever buying another high dollar blade. I hit yard sales for cheap ones that I can sharpen up and make good use of. Many to be had for a buck apeice. That Habor freight unit works well on my 7 1/4 circ blades also.
30 bucks well spent.
I sell used blades on Ebay, I get most of them from estates because it sickens me when the kids or wife of a woodworker dumps this stuff for nothing. I see a lot of junk at estates but I run across a lot of high quality CMT, Freud, Delta and Forrest blades that are in great shape.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
LumberJocks Woodworking Forum
2.5M posts
96K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!