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Forum topic by Sirgreggins posted 06-17-2013 12:30 AM 2666 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Sirgreggins's profile


302 posts in 3520 days

06-17-2013 12:30 AM

Hey guys, so i just upgraded my table saw fence to a Vega and i was ready to start making my cutting boards but after dialing in my fence i made a corian zero clearance insert. But when i went to level it i noticed that the cast iron on the right side of the blade is 1/32” lowers than the left. It appears that the cast iron dips on the right side (the more important side). Since this is an early 90’s Craftsman Flex drive, there’s no way $300-$400 is worth paying to have the surface ground flat. Any ideas on what i can do to fix this? It’s only a small area between the blade and right side miter slot.

11 replies so far

View Shane's profile


294 posts in 3095 days

#1 posted 06-17-2013 12:44 AM

Can you reverse things and cut on the left?

View Sirgreggins's profile


302 posts in 3520 days

#2 posted 06-17-2013 01:01 AM

unfortunately not more that maybe 5-6 inches. for some things i can do that tho

View Loren's profile


11307 posts in 4932 days

#3 posted 06-17-2013 02:06 AM

Bondo. Seriously. You can glue plastic laminate to
it if you like.

Assess if there is really a dip – because it could be
a bump. You can file a bump out a lot easier.

Distortions in cast iron in non-professional (not faux
professional) grade machines are not uncommon.
The Powermatic reputation in part was built on
the aging of the iron castings prior to grinding –
which requires not only storing castings as they
season, but additional labor moving them around.

I recommend however that you look at the tolerances
of the cuts you can get, not the tolerances of the
saw. Accurate joinery can be cut on table saws
with as much a 1/32” screwiness in the table,
but keep in mind that in joinery cuts the work is balanced
over the miter slot often. If you press the work
down onto a zero clearance insert, the insert may
(will, in my experience) flex.

View Sirgreggins's profile


302 posts in 3520 days

#4 posted 06-17-2013 02:45 AM

I’ll have to run some stock through and check everything from there. The bondo idea was on that i had but wasnt sure if i was just crazy. I’ll have to get a good long straight edge instead of just an accurate combo square. It’d be nice if it was a hum instead of a dip. removing a smaller amount of material is much more favorable

View LokisTyro's profile


46 posts in 3147 days

#5 posted 06-17-2013 07:14 AM

Just an FYI there are a few different types of reinforced fillers out there. Being a car guy, Bondo makes me cringe, but mostly because of it’s improper use. Look into All Metal or check out this brief article on a few different fillers and ponder a bit.

-- -Andy ~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~

View knotscott's profile


8434 posts in 4660 days

#6 posted 06-17-2013 09:23 AM

It’s not likely that the deviation will effect the cuts….make some cuts, and check them. Could be no problem at all.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View MrRon's profile


6208 posts in 4528 days

#7 posted 06-17-2013 03:53 PM

JB WELD. Trawl it on and flatten with a belt sander and files. Roughen up the surface first.

View Sirgreggins's profile


302 posts in 3520 days

#8 posted 06-18-2013 01:24 AM

Someone mentioned that i could hammer it or use leverage to flatten it out. Has anyone ever hammered an area back to “flat”? i think this is too crude of a method but…...

View patcollins's profile


1687 posts in 4149 days

#9 posted 06-18-2013 01:39 AM

OMG dont hammer on your saw top

View BBF's profile


144 posts in 3123 days

#10 posted 06-18-2013 01:40 AM

If you want to crack your casting go a head and hammer on it. I would not do it though.

-- I've never been disappointed buying quality but I have been disappointed buying good enough.

View Sirgreggins's profile


302 posts in 3520 days

#11 posted 06-18-2013 02:17 AM

Thats what i thought. When i heard that i couldnt believe my ears. Hopefully i can get some good 90 degree cuts out of it. the reason why i was concerned is b/c this problem makes it difficult to tell when the blade is 90 degrees and leveling the insert is frustrating. Also, trying to cut 45 degree bevels is almost a joke.

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