can a hollow core door make a legit torsion box table?

The covering on a HC door is usually 1/8 or 3/16 thick. Just be careful not to place an object with some weight compared to its small footprint. Also how flat is the door currently. I have also seen cardboard used in HC doors as filler. Not saying it won’t work, but be careful.

I use one for larger assembly but as tooldad says do not put heavy items with a small foot print on it. If you puy it on saw horses I’d put as many under it that would fit there.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

I have a hollow core door as my workbench top. Before I set it up as a work top I glued 1/2 mdf to both sides then added a loose 1/4” tempered hardboard wear surface surrounded by a hard woodedge. They USUALLY are not very flat. If you can set it up flat before you glue the top & bottom on you’ll have a solid, flat surfase to work on. I used this method over 20 years ago & the benches are still in use.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/tpursell?ref=si_shop

I suppose I should have been clearer when I said I was thinking of skinning the door. Gluing 1/2” MDF to both sides is what I was talking about, hoping I could (1) give it extra strength, and (2) possibly straighten the door if necessary. However, Barry’s comment about using cardboard inside as the core does give me pause …

Thanks all for your inputs.

-- Dublin, OH

Nothing wrong with cardboard as a filler, it’s surprisingly strong.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

Cardboard indeed can be a strong filler – but it can also break down surprisingly fast with use and age. Much depends on the quality of the cardboard.

-- Derek, Bremerton WA --

If you do use it, set it up to check if there’s any twist, or warp in it.

You can do this with a couple of sighting boards. (winding sticks)

Once its straight, then glue on your MDF.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

I would say probably not… and I don’t think the MDF would help much because it only adds weight and not sheer strength. I suggest starting from scratch.

However, my “utility” work bench is made from two solid core doors glued and bolted together and “edgebanded” with 2×4s. It was cheap, fast and extremely strong and heavy. It may sag a little, I don’t rely on it for flatness. But in two years I haven’t noticed any sag. I even have a vice mounted on it.

I got the doors from a salvaged building supply warehouse for next to nothing.

-- Happy woodworking!

Blake’s bench is a much better way to go.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

whatever you decide if you make a new door dont forget like my friend did to reinfoce the handle lock section for motrticing as this is a good laugh when you try to mortice for a lock into asbestos type cardboard it doen’t work at all so with a new door construction make the frame steady and I would never emphasize never use this for an external door sorry but you did ask keep going bonny lad God Bless Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

Check your area for a Habitat for Humanity Restore shop. My area store had over 40 maple ply skinned solid core doors for $20 a piece. I wish I had gotten more during their 2fer sale.

-- Gary D.