A question about liquid hide glue

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Forum topic by JesseTutt posted 02-19-2013 01:34 AM 4692 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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854 posts in 2649 days

02-19-2013 01:34 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question hide glue

I recall reading somewhere that any liquid hide glue squeeze out can be washed off using warm water and it will not show in the finish. Is this true? I was hired to build a set of projects for a customer, while the clamps are on it is nearly impossible to reach in and remove any glue squeeze out. After the glue is dry and the clamps are removed I end up marring the wood when I use a chisel to remove the hardened glue.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

13 replies so far

View shipwright's profile


8399 posts in 3337 days

#1 posted 02-19-2013 05:02 AM

When the glue is fresh, you can carefully remove excess with COLD water. Try to avoid using more than necessary. When cured you can remove excess with HOT water, same cautionary note. Once cured liquid hide glue is similar to hot hide glue and will require both heat and moisture to soften or reverse it.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 2649 days

#2 posted 02-19-2013 02:36 PM

Will the cold / hot water sufficiently remove the glue so that it will not show through a finish?

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View rockom's profile


134 posts in 4410 days

#3 posted 02-19-2013 03:09 PM

Glue some scraps and test your results. Make sure you have some intentional squeeze out.


-- -> Malta, IL -<

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2787 days

#4 posted 02-19-2013 03:15 PM

I have never used liquid hide glue, but I use Hot hide glue almost exclusively now. You need to remove the dried excess (for obvious reasons), but you don’t need to go nuts sanding like you do with PVA style glues. As long as your surface is smooth, HHG has the same effect on the wood and stains/finishes that water does – which is to say it does not affect it at all.


View shipwright's profile


8399 posts in 3337 days

#5 posted 02-19-2013 03:29 PM

Yes the hot water should remove all the glue. As Joe said, you must remove it all, but the difference from pva glue is that hot water will re-liquify it, dilute it, and allow it to be wiped off. You just don’t want to go soaking the new joint down with too much hot water.
It’s a good idea to experiment with both the glue removal and a dis-assembly of a trial joint. Soaking a hide glued joint to dis-assemble it will give you a good idea of how waterproof it is. It will take some time and effort and require a good bit of both heat and moisture. Contrary to popular belief, well cured hide glue will resist a lot of water.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View mloy365's profile


444 posts in 3669 days

#6 posted 02-19-2013 04:21 PM

Check out the article in FWW, April 2013, pg. 34.

-- Mike - Northern Upper Michigan

View a1Jim's profile


117746 posts in 4116 days

#7 posted 02-19-2013 04:30 PM

what most roll top desk have on the tambour(the roll up part) is canvass not paper. Here’s some plans that show how it works.

And a video of someone making a small tambour box.

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 2649 days

#8 posted 02-27-2013 02:29 PM

Thanks for the replies.

A follow-up question: Since I am just getting started exploring hide glue possibilities, I don’t want to spend money on a glue pot. Is liquid hide glue close enough to hot hide glue so that I can learn without the startup cost of hot hide glue?

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View Cosmicsniper's profile


2202 posts in 3697 days

#9 posted 02-27-2013 02:45 PM

Jesse…go to the dollar store and get a little crock pot. It’s perfect for a glue pot and shouldn’t cost more than a few bucks. Or, “borrow” your wife’s. ;)

Liquid Hide Glue has a long open time, which is different from the much faster hide glue. Likewise, it has a short shelf life. Otherwise, I believe the two are quite similar in most regards.

-- jay,

View Patricelejeune's profile


383 posts in 2459 days

#10 posted 06-06-2013 08:33 PM

I usually french polish my project before glueing that way I can have nice clean corner. I use liquid hide glue, old brown glue and clean up with old brown glue

For example I finished all the inside of that box before glueing it and finished the outside before to glue the bottom molding

The same goes with an empire table we made

We use hide glue and particularly old brown glue eveyday for restoration work not only because it is reversible so we do not kill the antique, because the antiques where made with hide glue and hide glue is the only glue to really bond to itself, because it is non-toxic and therefore safer to use, but also because by doing repairs with it we can clean it of without damaging the patina and the original finish.

-- Patrice lejeune

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2753 posts in 3461 days

#11 posted 06-06-2013 09:44 PM

I have used small amounts of liquid hide glue that had a shelf life of several years. It worked well for me making artsy crafty stuff. Some of my glue ups are in places that cannot be reached to clean up the squeeze out. What I like the best with it is that I applied a spray on lacquer over it and the squeeze out was then very hard to see. Not perfect but the best of any glue I have found as to applying finish over it.

-- No PHD just a DD214

View lwllms's profile


555 posts in 3821 days

#12 posted 06-06-2013 10:37 PM

Patrice, you could have put up the video on Old Brown Glue. It’s the only glue I use.

View Patricelejeune's profile


383 posts in 2459 days

#13 posted 06-17-2013 06:20 PM

Thank you lwllms.

We started a series of video on Old Brown Glue, our liquid hide glue and here are to links to videos showing the cleaning

-- Patrice lejeune

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