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DW746

10K views 44 replies 15 participants last post by  HiLo 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I own the DW746 tablesaw and was wondering how many other LJs also own and use the saw. I would like to connect with those that do have the saw so I can discuss modifications that may have been made. As you can see I've added the Bench Dog router table and a small outfeed table. I've also done some mods on the fence. I would be interested in dust collection mods that have been added. Thanks,

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#4 ·
Here is my first post! I have the DW746 and really like it. I would love to get the 52" rails but I cannot seem to get a lead on any. I too have the bench dog router table which I just added about two weeks ago. I'm curious as to the fence mods you've made as well as how you attached your outfeed table to the saw. I'd love to make a folding outfeed table that could be raised or lowered as needed. I just ordered a leecraft zero clearance insert and will be installing the mj splitter steel pro for a thin kerf blade. It's a great saw!
 
#5 ·
Paul, I removed the brown plastic piece from the end of the fence that rides on the rail. I replaced it with a piece of stick on poly-something (I'll find a reference if you need) placed on the bottom side of the fence that rides right on the table. Works great…the change in no way changed the fence. The only reason that I can see for the original plastic piece was to vertically support the end of the fence while it rode on the angle iron. The slippery poly-something replaced that.

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Also, in the next picture if you look closely you'll see I drilled holes in the angle iron so I could mount another piece of angle iron (aluminum) to the bottom side which I then used to mount the fold down outfeed table. I did the outfeed table before taking off the piece of brown plastic. If I had it to do over again I would mount the outfeed table directly to the back rail. Anyway, hindsight is 20/20. The advantage of removing the brown plastic piece is that it thens opens up use of the back rail for anything you want without interfering with the fence.

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#6 ·
BTW, I was going to get the 52" rails but have gotten by with cutting sheet goods down to a manageable size using my circular saw. Besides, I don't often bring full size plywood into the shop. The hardwood store I shop at and even the big box stores will will cut sheet goods for you.
 
#7 ·
Thanks, Katdaddy. Does that mean we're buds now? I really hate to think I've made a friend on the LJ site. It would ruin my rep…and I surely don't want that. BTW, did the Irish embarrass themselves or what? Should have been Oregon playing Alabama.
 
#10 ·
I really like what you did with the fence and outfeed table. I will steal your idea and remov the plastic hook and throw on a self stick glider. I will also mount the hinges right to the rear angle iron since the old plastic piece will no longer be hitting it. Thanks for the ideas!
 
#11 ·
Paul, let's stay in touch with ideas and thoughts. I've been on all the woodworking sites and this is probably the best. Lot's of talent, helpful people and the best of all…you don't have to be serious all the time. Give ********************…take ********************. It's all about a pretty nice place to be. There I go again…getting mushy and all. I'm sure my rep is suffering badly…

Oh, when you get to thinking about dust collection on the saw let me know. I've tried them all with this saw and have some definite opinions. One thing at a time…
 
#12 ·
Paul, here's one other consideration you may want to make before planning your outfeed table since you also have the Bench Dog setup. I did not extend the table all the way to the end of the rail because I wanted to retain easy access to my router power. I added the switch as shown in the picture. Reaching under the table to turn on and off the router got old after awhile.

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#13 ·
DKV
This is a glorious day!
I never thought I would see the day when you posted something that was woodwork related!
There is hope after all for even the most lost ones.
I read your Bio on your home page and we actually have much in common, dare I say.
Miracles CAN happen.

(Good luck with the saw)
 
#22 ·
gse, I never did understand the purpose of all that stuff at the end of the fence. This is what I did. The first picture is for perspective and the second is the strip of low friction tape I applied after removing the "other" stuff. The tape raises the end of the fence the same distance the brown block did and allows the end of the fence to easily slide on the tabletop. Also, by removing the brown block and other stuff you open up the back rail to be used to attach things. In my case an outfeed table.

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However, if you insist on staying OEM I will look for the parts tomorrow. Just have to remember where I put them. I never throw anything away I just lose it. After I find it you can PM me your address and I'll send you what you need.
 

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#25 ·
I've owned this saw for about 12 years and have been fairly happy with it. A couple of things I've been looking into are: (1) closing in the upper cabinet area to trap and collect more of the dust and (2) upgrading the motor to 3 hp. Any suggestions?

Configuration: 52" fence and mobile base
 
#26 ·
Ijh, why are you thinking of swapping out the motor? I have bogged mine down when pushing the wood through too fast and I've run a lot of wood through it. I've been happy with the existing motor and have no plans to swap out the motor. You also have the possibility of rewiring the existing motor for 220/240v but I don't think this will provide more HP just lower draw on the current.

I agree with closing the the upper cabinet area for better dust collection. This has been on my todo list for a LONG time. I keep putting it off because I don't have a dedicated dust collection line running to the saw. My original though was to put my existing DC on wheels and I could move it around the shop as needed. This was OK until my tool collection grew and then this became impossible. The new thought is to install a new DC in the corner of my shop and run dedicated lines in the ceiling where I have a lot of room. This project is on hold pending cash.

Closing off the cabinet seems straight forward but not having done it I cannot say for sure just how much work it might be. Rockler at one time sold a brush type device that fit over the bevel stop slot. I've seen articles where this slot was covered with a magnetic sheet. There are some ideas at http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?74575-Sealing-Table-saw-body-for-better-dust-control

Remember not to seal the cabinet too much, if you do it will result in less dust collection. As my first attempt I was going to seal the bottom of the cabinet and connect my dust collector to this area. This is still on the drawing board for me.

I'd be interested in hearing about your results.
 
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