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Cheap table saw remedy wanted: Blade too close to the front. Jig for this?

6K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  RDan 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am a very broke woodworker who spent years neglecting his love for woodworking. Anyway, this past week I saw a 40% off sale on what was already a budget entry level table saw so I got it for $155.00 Here is a link to it http://tinyurl.com/6mzh4gt
The fence is much nicer than most budget table saws, so I made my decision and bought it. Once I started using it I found the major FLAW: As you can see on the picture of it, the blade is very close to the front edge of the unit.
I built the square cut sled and the miter sled that Steve Ramsey http://lumberjocks.com/Stevinmarin has posted here and on Youtube. The problem is that by the time the jig feeds deep enough into the miter slots on the table saw top to be stable I am already half way past the blade.
Solutions?
1. I guess one option is to get aluminium pieces that fit more snugly into the miter slots and extend them farther forward of the jig. What do you think of this?
2. Or I could build a jig that essentially extends the front of the table 8 inches or sow, and of course dado some miter ridges into it. But how would I make is fit stable and snug on the saw? Is is worth trying to build something like this?
I know that this solution would leave my fence useless, so it would have to be jig, not a permanent add on.

What are your thoughts and ideas and potential solutions?

Or if this idea already exists in a thread here, please point me to it, I could not find one that matched.

EDIT: I got everything I was asking about in this post. Thanks to all you generous LumberJocks out there.
 
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#2 ·
I think your idea of extending the aluminum guides is the way to go. Perhaps a small table extension on the operator side of the table would help also. If you use longer guides you will not need to make the guide slots in your extension fit tight as you will have enough support from the longer guides. Are the guide slots in the saw T slots or just plain? If they are T slots you easly make your guides fit the T for more support.
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
If you could find a reasonably full size used saw, I'd return the new one. I suspect you'll soon find several other major drawbacks of the current saw. http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154

Saws like these sell in my area regularly in the $100-$200 range. With a little TLC, they have a lot of upside potential.

 
#6 ·
+1 to what knottscott said.
I normally prefer new tools, but used vs a craptastic saw like the one you bought, used wins hands down. For the entirety of owning that saw you'll have to deal with compromises.
 
#9 ·
Answers to the questions:
1. It is the T slot type.
2. I cannot just turn the sled around as the miter slots are not equal distance from the blade on each side, and if I did would not my wood be getting to the blade even sooner than the traditional manner? Maybe I don't understand that suggestion.

Yes, there are more flaws. I just found out that the blade does not run parallel to the miter slots and on this cheapo there is no way to adjust it.

I have other challenges though. I have only a compact car which makes moving a larger saw to my house mean renting a truck - no $ for that. (I am fairly new to where I live and don't have any friends with a truck either) So I would have to factor that into my expenses. I also have a physical debility with my knees (I have been off work for a year and on a small disability pension) and I cannot setup a heavier unit alone, but I should be able to find some helpers.

Still, I think I will try to return it first.
I thought I had done my research first, clearly I hadn't done enough. Thanks for the responses guys!
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Look your saw over a little closer the moterised blade assembly must be bolted to the table somehow if it is I bet you can loosen the bolts and wiggle the whole assembly a little to true it with the slot. as for old beater Craftsman , delta and the like most of them are under powered with a belt driven arbor and will not do an effective job ripping hardwood or thicker softwood. I remeber having to let the motor cool a couple of times to rip a spruce 2 X 4 X 8'. It took two men to safley load and unload a 10" craftman, most of the fences were crap, and a good many of them had poor miter gauges. I bought a Bosh motorized unit a few years ago and thought I would keep my old delta 9" contractors saw as a spare; Wrong I never pluged it in again. I bet your cheapo will get you by nicely for a few years and for what you paid it does not have to last forever. If your miter gauge has the part on the guide that fits the T slot I bet you can figure out how to add one to your sled guides. You will have to grind or file the ends of the guides a little and find some sort of washer that fits the slot perhaps cut down a fender washer, and you will need to drill and tap the end of the guide. I could turn a t slot washer for you on my metal lathe in about 15 min but I don't know about mailing to canada never tried it.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the advice sprucegum, but nope, I was not successful when loosening all the screws (not bolts) into the plastic housing. It is not adjustable that way.

I have it back in it's original box and will try to return it today. If they won't take it back or won't give me full credit for it, then I will make due with exactly the types of suggestions you gave.

Thanks to all you guys for the help. I just joined Lumberjocks and have found that this was a great idea and there will be a good bunch of woodworking friends to help me out.
 
#13 ·
Not what you are looking for-but keep an eye on the used market for tools. I see others agree. It may take some months or even a year or two, but generally you can get some really nice equipment at great prices. Make a wish list-and keep an eye on craigslist or similar. I have my wish list.. and over the years, something at about half of full price usually comes along.

I would think lightly used contractors saws in the 200-300 range would be possible. If you can afford to wait, consider it.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
Another almost forgoten tool is the radial arm saw. With compound sliding miter saws so common now there is
very little reason to own one but you can do almost anything on the radial arm that you can do on a table saw or a compound sliding miter saw but the setup will likely take longer. I own all three and use them all. I often see decent Craftman radial arm saws in the $100 range. CAUTION some craftsman radial arm saws have a safety recall if the serial # is in the rite range they will give you a very nice upgrade kit FREE. Others no upgrade kit is available and they will give you $100 for the motor and saw. As long as you pay less than $100 for a good working saw you are not taking much of a chance. Just Google Craftsman radial arm saw recall for details.
 
#15 ·
Loren,
You commented about the Jimmy Jig on my post. Their website is not terribly user friendly I was wondering:
Do I need a very accurate table saw to create one?
Do you have an estimate of the materials or the cost required to build one?
 
#16 ·
There just might be another LJ member in your area who can help move a saw…..anyone from Olds, Alberta Canada? These woodworkers can be a pretty helpful group. There might be someone on the Canadianwoodworker.com site near you too.
 
#18 ·
That's great!
I hope your search does not last too looooong!!!
You may be without for a short while, but you will be infinitely better off in the long run.
 
#21 ·
And I see that the ad is no longer available, so I don't know what saw it was - did you buy it?

If not, I'd suggest looking for a used jobsite saw with a portable stand, like a Bosch 4100 or a Makita 2400 series. Ridgid makes one too, not sure of the model #. New, they're in the $500-$700 range, but you're close enough to Calgary that you probably can find a good used one for $200 to $300. They're decent saws, and with the portable stand, very… well… portable. With a good blade, a great starter saw and depending on the projects you want to do, maybe even the only saw you ever need.

Another option is some old iron. Around here (Okanagan), you can have your pick of 60s or 70s era Beaver/Rockwells with cast iron tables in working condition but needing a bit of TLC for $50 to $100. The fences on those suck, but if you buy one, you can always turn around and sell it for what you paid.
 
#22 · (Edited by Moderator)
I bought it for his asking price. (Poor guy is planning on buying a small saw like I just returned to save space in his garage, I warned him - but he has $ he is planning on getting an expensive quality small saw)
The guy's garage was immaculate, you could tell he took care of his other stuff. The dado blade guard was still in the original pkg, as well as the manual, and everything nice and clean. The fence was square to the blade. I could not pass it up.
He was tight on the price so I got him to throw in the aftermarket roller base to make it easy to move around.
I just cannot find any more info on it online.
Craftsman Professional 10 inch unit.
Model 113.272740C ( the C is for Canada, I think the USA models have a different letter)

 
#25 ·
Congrats on the saw. I have a similar 113.298030 TS. Pick it up for $125.00 on CL. It came with a mobile base and a Vega Utility fence. Unfortunately it is only 1HP and not as clean as yours.


Ya done good! Enjoy making sawdust!!!
 

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#26 ·
Thanks,
My son helped the seller take it apart and put it in my Kia RIO (It fit, almost), we got the trunk 95% closed and tied down. So right now I am heading out to the garage to start to put it back together and then calibrate everything and make some new sawdust.
 
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