I gave my knives to a life-long sharpening service and they are not straight. I also found out one of them is significantly shorter than the other two so not sure if there is any vibration being created (Grizzly G1182 Jointer). Knives are 6" x 1" x 1/8" thick.
I'm now researching replacement jointer knives so I can start fresh. Seems the type of steels vary quite a bit.
As you can see, there's quite the material selection and varying prices. Any thoughts on superiority and experience? Or maybe something not even listed here?
medic…have you bought from there? I actually met him a few months ago (his business is only about 30 miles from here "as the crow flies" but he is tucked so far into the middle of nowhere that I think it was a lot further than that).
I'd highly reccomend American National Knife. I've done business with them several times and they are both very knowledgable and reasonable in price. Here is there webpage. http://www.americannationalknife.com/
I get that carbide tipped isn't as good for soft woods as they are for hard woods due to the fact it is difficult to get that premier edge on carbide as compared to tool steel (hence it would "tear" more than "cut" the soft woods).
But they would last longer and it's not like I'm a production shop either. The tool steel would be easier to dress when they dull slightly but carbide can be dressed as well, it just takes longer and with more specialized equipment. At the same time, diamond sharpening stones are now commonly available so that makes that task easier.
I think I'm talking myself into spending the extra $80 or so for the carbide tipped unless there's a really good argument as to why I shouldn't bother.
As long as your sharpener can handle the carbide knives.
I have a Tormek wet wheel sharpener in my shop. Many years ago I spent the $$$ for the planer knife jig. It takes some time but I can put an incredibly sharp edge on my jointer and planer knives ( HSS ) After sharpening they leave a surface so smooth it has a sheen to it.
The carbide will stay sharp much longer than the steel knives, especially if you keep them clean and occasionally use a diamond hone.
I have the Tormek without the planer knife jig…for the $160 it would cost to buy the jig, think I'll send mine out. I got most of the other stuff (stone dresser, small and large knife jigs) with the machine.
I'm also looking to replace my blades in the G1182. So no one really answered the question about the types of steel and your original links (other than the carbide…thanks EricTy & Wdwerker…advice on that, folks?
I ended up buying a set of carbide tipped from http://www.woodworkersoutpost.com/. They were about half the price of the other carbide tipped knives from various places recommended. Made in Taiwan. Don't remember the carbide grade (C4 perhaps) but when I did a little research, I was satisfied.
I have yet to install and try them out. Today sounds like a good day to play.
I'll send my tool steel ones out to have them sharpened so they are straight this time and I'll keep them as a backup set.
tool steel: high carbon steel - usually O1 or A2 when referring to woodworking iron, best used for hand tools, does not stand up to heat (power tool usage) as well as HSS and carbide
HSS: High Speed Steel - cutting steel that can withstand high heat generated from high speeds of tools (drill bits, planer knives, blades, etc), better fit for power tools than tool-steel
M2 / T1 /etc: these are variations of HSS with added alloys in the steel mix to make them resist and stand up to heat even better than 'pure' HSS. these are usually a better choice over regular HSS for power tools that run high RPMs
Carbide: the toughest matel currently known. withstand much higher heat than HSS, and doesn't degrade as fast as HSS. best used when longevity is required (high production settings). doesn't take as keen of an edge as HSS can, so finishing cuts using Carbide are not as good as it would be with HSS cuts. usually used for rough work. can take deeper cuts and faster RPMs than HSS.
D2-HCHC- High Carbon & High Chrome:
Our D2 (AISI) knives offer the best value for many moulding producers and planer mills. It is easy to grind and resists nicks in knotty soft woods. D2 contains 12% chromium to resist chemical erosion when cutting wet cedar or redwood. Great for softwoods and shorter runs in hardwoods.
V2-HSSTM- High Speed Steel:
V2 is our newest breed of HSS with extra Vanadium for long life. V2 offers nearly same wear life and performance as M2-HSS, but at about 25% lower cost. V2 has a 63 HRC and is easy to profile shape. Great for most long runs in soft or hardwoods.
M2-HSS- High Speed Steel:
Our true grade M2-HSS (AISI) steel offers 25% longer run times than D2-HCHC grade. Great for long runs in most soft and hardwoods.
T1-HSS- High Speed Steel:
Our T1 (AISI) steel offers 25% longer run times than M2-HSS. T1 is a well liked common European grade made of 18% Tungsten (W) for extra long runs and better resistance to abrasive glue lines. T1 is popular for mills that run mostly hardwoods or for softwood mills that want the ultimate in knife and cutting performance.
T1 is pretty much gone in the USA. Whatever is left is Old stock.
Amanda tools sells T1 from China but they aren't smart enough to cut three knives from the same bar. So what you get is 3 different knives that are not matched maybe two will be.
The sets I inspected where not sharp and very warped. One Knife weighed 15 grams heavy.
Thanks Amana and China for nothing.
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