Aligning Table Saw - First Attempt - Need Help!

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Forum topic by mc79 posted 11-19-2012 03:36 AM 1569 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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23 posts in 3041 days

11-19-2012 03:36 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw alignment ridgid r4512 burn marks alignment blade alignment setup table saw adjustment

I recently purchased a Ridgid R4512 table saw and have used it several times now. After getting burn marks on my wood (Soft Maple) from ripping and trying different blades with no success, I finally broke down and bought a digital dial indicator to check the setup of my table saw (alignment, etc..) I have taken measurements with both a Freud 24T Rip Blade as well as a Freud 80T Crosscut blade. Results were almost identical.

I am hoping someone can help me interpret my results and offer suggestions for what needs to be adjusted and how to adjust (my manual does not indicate how to make these adjustments).

Arbor Runout (Spun the blade with the dial indicator in the center of the blade): -.002” to +.001” (Rip Blade), -.001” to +.001” (Crosscut Blade)

Blade Flatness (Spun the blade with the dial indicator at the edge of the blade: +.0045” (Rip Blade), +.0035 (Crosscut Blade)

Miter Slot to Blade Parallel Test (Marked tooth at front and then spun to back and measured same tooth at back): +.0085” (both blades)

Miter Slot to Fence Parallel Test (Ran the dial indicator down the miter slot from the front to the back of the fence): +.043” at furthest back part of slot before the indicator base started exiting the miter slot. Then as much as +.06” if I kept going beyond that point without the base fully in the slot.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

2 replies so far

View toolie's profile


2200 posts in 3596 days

#1 posted 11-19-2012 03:58 AM

start here:

checking arbor runout is done without a blade. miter slot/blade parallelism should be as close to .000” at the front and back of the blade as possible. set the dial indicator to .000” @ the infeed side of the blade, then rotate the gauge tooth on the blade to the outfeed side of the table and check again with dial indicator. it should read as close to .000” as possible. same thing for miter slot to fence parallelism, although some prefer the fence on left tilt to cant SLIGHTLY to the right on the outfeed side of the blade by .001 to .003”. use the same miter slot for both blade and fence parallelism checks.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View NiteWalker's profile


2741 posts in 3545 days

#2 posted 11-19-2012 05:17 PM

Your burning is likely from your blade to miter slot alignment. .0085 is way too much. I aim for .003 and under.

Also, about the fence, I like the far end kicked out about .002 so the blade won’t contact the wood and cause burning. Too far kicked out and it can cause the offcut piece to be pulled into the blade and cause burning or kickback. Too far in and you have binding and kickback.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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