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Forum topic by steve6678 posted 11-17-2012 03:13 AM 1778 views 0 times favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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438 posts in 3352 days

11-17-2012 03:13 AM


-- Steve - Dust sucks!

32 replies so far

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191 posts in 4192 days

#1 posted 11-17-2012 03:54 AM

I am a WWII man, myself. I have two so I can keep going when I send one to New Jersey for sharpening. I haven’t tried other brands, but I fully expect that some are as good or better than Forrest. As for changing blades between rips and crosscuts, I certainly do not. I would be interested in hearing from the advocates of dedicated crosscut blades and rip blades, as opposed to combination blades.

-- Paul, Clinton, NC

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1691 posts in 3925 days

#2 posted 11-17-2012 04:03 AM

I typically leave my rip blade installed in my TS. Its craftsman branded freud that I snagged off a clearance rack. I’ll use it to crosscut if I don’t need the ends to be drop-dead georgous. But if I have several boards that require a clean crosscut, I’ll take the 2 minutes to swap to a crosscut blade.

I do also own a 7 1/4” sliding miter saw. Its handy to have on-hand when you want cut a board or two. Plus, a respectable circular saw blade can be had for under $20.

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438 posts in 3352 days

#3 posted 11-17-2012 04:13 AM

I have a chop saw too, I just don’t have much faith in it except for Rough sizing. I got a Forrest blade in it but I can never keep it from wandering ever so slightly from a 90 deg. It’s the saws fault. not the blade, which cut’s awesome.
I use this Miter saw for interior trimming out, and such but in my shop I like to get my lumber on the TS to get a TRUE 90 with the crosscut sled

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View ShaneA's profile


7085 posts in 3890 days

#4 posted 11-17-2012 04:14 AM

WW II, for me. Never had much reason to look elsewhere. Have a spare for when the other is out.

View jdmaher's profile


472 posts in 3871 days

#5 posted 11-17-2012 04:17 AM

I use a freud combination most of the time.

When ripping more than one long 8/4, I definitely DO put a Freud rip blade on. Also If I’m cutting dados for 1/4” plywood.

And I have a freud dado set I use often.

Guess I like Freud.

Ridge, huh?

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

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983 posts in 4302 days

#6 posted 11-17-2012 04:59 AM

I have a WWII, but when it comes to replace it, I’ll probably either go with the Ridge or Tenryu (they make a full kerf version of the Gold Medal now by the way). I think the WWII is a little over-priced.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

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438 posts in 3352 days

#7 posted 11-17-2012 05:02 AM

I use a thin kerf 3/32”, I have a back up extra, xtra spare Amana that’s a 1/8” kerf but all my Zero plates are ready for thin kerf blades, much less friction

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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8434 posts in 4667 days

#8 posted 11-17-2012 12:44 PM

For each of the top contenders that can be named, there’s someone who’s compared to the others and prefers it. There’s no doubt the TS2000 is a top notch blade, but it’s worth noting that it’s difficult to draw truly valid conclusions when you’re testing with a sample size of one blade of any given model, because the blade in hand may or may not be representative of the whole population. It’s also difficult to compare a used blade to a new blade, or more specifically a sharp blade to a blade that may not be as sharp….even a brand new blade may not be as sharp as another brand new blade of the same model. The sharpening process and handling of the blade after sharpening are critical variables that can effect results. There are many other variables involved, and it’s tough to control those variables reliably….the material itself is a variable, the operator is a variable, etc. It’s possible that your TS2000 is clearly a better blade than your WWII and others in your experience, but it’s also possible that your TS2000 is simply sharper than a less than new WWII, or that your technique has improved, or that you’re better at setting up your saw, or that there’s bias, etc. We also all tend to have different definitions of “good”, “best”, etc. It’s likely that none are truly best at all aspects of cutting, but each may have a niche where they excel.

I’ve owned, used, and tested the TS2000 against the WWII, Tenryu Gold Medal, DW7657, and others, and thought it was an exceptional general purpose blade….one of the few I consider an elite blade. The teeth are thicker on the TS2000 than those of a WWII, so it can be sharpened more times, but the quality of results are so close between a WWII, Gold Medal, and a TS2000 that it becomes really difficult to say that the one is clearly superior to the other in all aspects. It seemed on any given cut, one may have done slightly better than the other, but none consistently eclipsed the other. The Gold Medal had a thinner kerf at the time of 0.111”, and had a slightly less resistance in rip cuts, but not necessarily a better cut (it’s now available in 0.125” full kerf). A couple of years after testing the WWII, TS2000, and Gold Medal head to head, I got the chance to run an Infinity Super General 40T, which to me, was clearly better at fine crosscuts, ply and sheetgoods, and gave a more polished edge on rip cuts from what I could tell, but the test wasn’t done head to head using the exact same material, meaning the material is a variable. Still, the edges are so clean that I can often identify materials cut by the Super General by looking at the cut. The downside is that it’s a bit less efficient in thicker rips cuts, and had slightly more tendency to burn. So if 1-1/2 to 2” rips constitute the bulk of your cuts, it may not be clearly a better blade for your needs. I’m fairly confident that it’s the cleanest cutting of the 40T or 50T blades I’ve tried, but there’s always a chance that my methods are flawed.

As good as these 40T blades are, they are designed with compromise in mind to achieve good versatility. Each of the brands mentioned above also offers dedicated task specific blades. None of these 40T blades will cut as cleanly in fine crosscuts or plywood cuts as a top quality 60T or 80T crosscut/ply blade like those from the Ridge Carbide, Forrest (Duraline), Infinity (Ultrasmooth), Freud (LU80), etc. And none rips as efficiently as a good 24T dedicated bulk ripper from a top brand. As a simple matter of physics the 40T blades give up some performance in the extreme ranges on each end of the spectrum compared to dedicated blades to achieve versatility. Inversely, the dedicated blades are exceptional at their respestive tasks, but often unsuitable for tasks outside that range.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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775 posts in 3659 days

#9 posted 11-17-2012 01:14 PM

depends on the quality of cut i wish to recieve..


View lumberjoe's profile


2902 posts in 3540 days

#10 posted 11-17-2012 02:10 PM

I’ve got an ever expanding table saw blade collection. What I have found is there is no “best” blade. General purpose and combination blades are “good enough”, but I find myself using special purpose blades most of the time. Even with special purpose blades, I find some are better than others depending on the species and the thickness being cut.


View ETwoodworks's profile


92 posts in 3985 days

#11 posted 11-17-2012 02:24 PM

I was going to drink the WWII koolaid. Instead i bought 2 CMT orange tool 40T (full kerf) blades for the price of 1 WWII. It makes perfect crosscuts and glue lines. The only time i use a rip blade is if im going to do alot of ripping at one time.

-- Building quality in a throw away world.

View NiteWalker's profile


2743 posts in 3869 days

#12 posted 11-17-2012 03:05 PM

I use a $20 dewalt dw7657 and have never felt I needed more than that. On a tuned saw, I get cuts rivaling those of the WWII.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 3402 days

#13 posted 11-17-2012 03:20 PM

I have used the same WWII that i bought with my table saw about 18 years ago. It is a full 0.125 kerf which makes it easy to calculate settings when the good piece is on the cut off side of the saw. But it is an ATB which does not look good for visible dados, groves or rabbits.

I will switch to my Freud rap blade if I need to do a lot of ripping or a dado, grove or rabbit.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

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David Dean

608 posts in 4191 days

#14 posted 11-17-2012 03:21 PM

Well I have to go with Diablo I got two that I use in the shop for my miter saw I have 12” Dural purpose for finish cut’s and for my table saw 10” Combination blade and up to date they have done 600 bf of oak and 1200 bf of diffent kinds of plywood and they cost about $ 35.00 a blade so all my work has been done with Diablo take look.

View RogerM's profile


809 posts in 3691 days

#15 posted 11-17-2012 04:28 PM

I have used the Forrest WWII for almost 4 years in all kinds of hardwoods and have had it sharpened once. It is very hard to beat the performance of this blade. Buy this blade and pretty much forget any more searching for blades.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

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