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Stanley #45 - 7 forms of fun in 1! - And other combination/moulding planes

263K views 4K replies 139 participants last post by  bandit571 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
The Stanley #45


This thread will serve as a "companion" of sorts to the blog series that I'll be working on with regards to the Stanley #45. In the blog I will be taking pictures in a sort of step-by-step process for setting up and performing certain tasks with the #45. I will also include a video of me making the cut as well. The intent is for it to act as a sort of visual reference on how a task can be performed.

I present this forum thread as a means of discussion, learning, and sharing our experiences with the #45. If you've got specific questions, or things that you'd like for me to try and then post, I'd like to hear it here.



Blog Series
  1. Introduction and References
  2. Plowing a Groove
  3. Match Plane (Tongue and Groove)



Type Studies
  • #45 Type Study by Gordon Muster - LINK
  • Patrick Leach's Blood & Gore - LINK
  • Hans Brunner's #45 type study - LINK



Manuals
  • #45 Manual from Hans Brunner Tools - LINK



Other
  • Parts list from Hans Brunner Tools (excerpt from manual) - LINK
  • Some reading about the slitter at FineWoodWorking - LINK
  • Replacement Parts from St. James Bay Tool Co. - LINK
  • Hollows & Rounds Evolution - LINK
  • Comparison between Veritas Combination Plane, and a Stanley #45 - LINK
  • Kenny's Google Drive for #45 Labels and things - LINK
 
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#3 ·
Mos, this could prove to be a great thread, rivaling Handplanes, mallets or chiselers!

My question is on dating and identification of the different #45's. Can you or someone go into detail about how to go about this?

I ordered a book on planes, not sure which one, but there isn't enough information on the #45. I actually bought the book to help identify other Stanleys I look at.

The #45 seems to get short shrift in a lot of the Stanley nomenclature.

Thanks!
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks Dallas, I really like my #45, and was frustrated by the lack of good references online on how to use it (more than just words on the screen) so I figured, why don't I just do something about it…

The forum topic idea was Poopiekat's. I just had the blog going at first.

For dating a #45, I have found it to be more difficult than with bench planes. I like this type study by Stan Faullin, to get a general ball park for most of the types. After that, it gets a little more tricky, because it's a lot of trade mark differences from there on out. The difficult thing with that, is that they don't all seem to match those of the bench planes so it's a little more difficult.

I have ordered a #45 specific book, so we'll see what I can learn from that.

-

Edit, yup poopiekat, that's the one by Stan Faullin that I've got listed. That one is probably my favorite of the two I've found so far.
 
#7 ·
I went to the type studies you listed and narrowed my #45 down to either a 9-11 or a 13-15. The problem is, there are some anomalies that don't follow through.
I have the screw adjustable fence of the 12- up, and the SW logo of the 13-15, but the main casting under the tote looks more like the 9-11 as do the thumb screws.
It may be a frankenplane made up of a number of different models, although the fellow that owned it was in his 80's when he died and this one has obviously been used for many decades.
 
#8 ·
It's entirely possible that some parts are different. For example, my fence was broken and welded back together, perhaps something similar happened, and they just replaced the fence with a new one?

Have any pictures? Perhaps we could try to help narrow it down even further. The main casting pattern of 9-11 should be the same pattern as with 12+ (stippled). What does the depth adjuster have for texture around the outside?
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've had some problems with certain cutters. Seems like some profiles really need for your lumber to be stepped down first with a rabbet plane in order to work right.
Hey, as a side topic, maybe somebody can explain what it takes to sharpen the complex cutter profiles. I have a few crummy old slipstones, but they really don't get the job done satisfactorily..
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
As far as I am aware, the #45 cutters only included plow/straight cutters, beads, sash, and match, with a few reeding blades optional later. Not including the auxilery bottoms for hollow/round. I thought all the more complex cutters were intended for the #55, which has the vertically adjustable fence section, to support the asymmetrical cutters

For my beading cutters, I have used fine sand paper wrapped around different sized dowels to sharpen them. I don't have any slip stones. Just make sure you don't sharpen the quirks more than the curve for the beading, or you'll end up making the bead less than half round

-

The depth stop and slitter is standard issue. The depth stop is meant to be used while using the slitter. I've also used my slitter depth stop with the slitter flipped (pointing up) when I wanted the double bearing front and back depth stops. It does get somewhat close to the knuckles, though, which a few people commented on when I did my dado video.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a #45 and a #46 as well as the Craftsman 1080 I think that's the number they use.. the biggest thing I have noticed in using them is going slow and easy.. don't be in a hurry, let the tool do the work and don't try to eat more than you can chew at one time.. As far as the sharpening question on some of the profiles, it seems that the slipstones are the only way I have found to get them good and sharp, and again its go slow and take your time.. I really like the #45 and the #46, but have found that with some profiles, the old wooden planes just work better.. not always, just on some.. just my 2 cents.. love the post..I have found that most people would rather time a rope to them and use them for anchors instead of planes.. such a shame.. thanks Mos for shining a light on a nice tool… Papa
P.S. I am looking for a complete set of irons for the #46 skew plow.. if anyone has some please give me a shout.. I have three of them now and would like them all…. thanks.. .Papa
 
#23 ·
Just one size of each, really. I base that on the snippets I'm seeing from the moulding via H&R planes that Lost Art recently published. From that, it sounds like even a quarter set of H&Rs is all you need to do hundreds of profiles. That'd be the way to go vs. the #45, but I still want the capability on the Iron Monster… (term of endearment, really!) :)
 
#25 ·
You know what I want to know. How the heck did Studley cut these cove profiles around these small parts? Was it with one of those hand router scraper tools?
Wood Gas Hardwood Musical instrument accessory Plywood
 

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