Radial Arm Saw Table height

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Forum topic by Yettiman posted 07-31-2008 10:09 PM 8121 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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163 posts in 4593 days

07-31-2008 10:09 PM


I have been lucky enough to have been given a DW RAS and want to install in in line between two benches.

My question is how can I make sure that the RAS table is PERFECTLY inline with the bench top.

I can measure where to put the support cleat (to rest the RAS on) but even with the best of intentions I will never get it to fit pefectly, and any error will just cause a lip preventing me from using the two benches either side as in & out feed tables.

I am thinking of doing it the best I can, then shimming it level.

Is this the correct way, or is there a better way

Sorry for such a dumb question.

I have included an image to give (I hope) an idea what I mean.

The image I have found on the internet and plan to base my set on, but it will be slightly different.

In my set up the RAS top & the two bench top are three pieces not one continous piece

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot

5 replies so far

View Llarian's profile


128 posts in 4463 days

#1 posted 08-01-2008 01:34 AM

I’ve been thinking about this same problem with my RAS and building it into a shelf/workbench. The idea is similar to what I’ve come up with (although I haven’t implemented yet). The big thing is that if you plan to use dados or other non-through cuts, you must have the RAS arm completely level with the table in all positions, so you’ll need to be able to adjust the height on all 4 corners easily. RAS being what they are, you’ll need periodic readjustment, so make sure you can easily reach the adjusters.

If you plan to do any miter cuts, you’ll need to ensure the table is level to the arm at all positions, which is even more dicey. Personally, I wouldn’t bother and would focus on being able to level it at just the center position, since they’re notoriously hard to keep aligned if you ever move the arm.

-- Dylan Vanderhoof - General hobbiest and reluctant penmaker.

View sIKE's profile


1271 posts in 4609 days

#2 posted 08-01-2008 01:58 AM

I have been working through the same issues. I have a craftsman RAS that I picked up with the intent to primarily use it for Dadoes. I am placing it between two cabinets already installed into my shop. I have been thinking about the problem you bring up, but also how do I keep the shelf the RAS sits on from sagging.

My decision was to place it on a torsion box instead. With that decision made (still working out the design but will post a Sketchup of what I am going to do there once all issues are worked out) I then decided that the best way to approach leveling everything was to pull the RAS off its base and mount it to the torsion box with the table on and get it level with my bench top. I know there are some problems with approach but I think I can work though them. Once I am satisfied that the top is level with the bench I will pull it back off mount the RAS back into its base put it on the torsion box and go though the tuning of the saw process and see where I land. If I am high somewhere I will plane down the rabbit in the cabinet side where appropriate and get it zeroed in, if I am low I will shim it up and get it zeroed in. At that point I will permanent mount the torsion box to the cabinet.

I hope that makes sense….PM me if you want to discuss further…..

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View ChicoWoodnut's profile


904 posts in 4671 days

#3 posted 08-01-2008 03:06 AM

I have a RAS (or two) but not in a bench. I have thought about how to do this though. Why not put some bolts in the bottom of the RAS frame base, one on each corner. Then you could adjust the replaceable table parallel to the arm just like the manual tells you to and second, use the bolts to adjust the whole thing level with the infeed/outfeed bench.

BTW, I don’t think the shelf is strong enough in that drawing above. It would be really scary to have a running RAS come crashing to the floor. I would consider a torsion box or more floor support.

-- Scott - Chico California

View Chris 's profile


1880 posts in 4847 days

#4 posted 08-01-2008 07:25 PM

I would echo Scott’s comment above. The shelf does not look like it would be strong or stiff enough.

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View Yettiman's profile


163 posts in 4593 days

#5 posted 08-01-2008 09:47 PM


After all your comments I have decided to midify the design.

I have knocked a (very bad) sketch up design, sorry still learning

The Idea is that I build a fairliy standard frame with 3×2’s and the fasten this to four suppot legs. Each leg has an adjustable foot.

The RAS steel base is the fastened to the frame and raised into the perfect hiegt by means of the adjustable feet.

This seems to take the best of the torsion box and the adjustment (via bolts) ideas.

Once at the pefect hieght, I can the fasten the two side battens to the ajacent cabinets with screws.

THanks for you support and ideas, they really helped.

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot

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