Joining together 2 pieces of 3/8" teak

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Forum topic by will delaney posted 07-31-2012 08:04 PM 5108 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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will delaney

326 posts in 3087 days

07-31-2012 08:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: glueing joining together joining

I resawed a piece of Teak and would like to bookmark it for a door. When trying to glue with Gorilla Glue it didn’t make a good bond. Does any LJs have a way to get a strong joint on 3/8 wood. Thanks Will

12 replies so far

View jbschutz's profile


570 posts in 3143 days

#1 posted 07-31-2012 08:07 PM

I think Gorilla glue has its place, but I would go with Titebond III…. and an eighth inch spline running the length of the joint. Draw it up tight and leave it for 24 hours.
Hope it works for you, John

-- jbschutz

View chrisstef's profile


17941 posts in 3458 days

#2 posted 07-31-2012 08:12 PM

You may want to clean the edges prior to glue up with acetone. The oils in the wood make it tough to glue. Ive had to employ that method when using cypress.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 2813 days

#3 posted 07-31-2012 08:13 PM

I agree with any of the Titebonds. Make sure the dry fit joint is perfect without clamping. Then a spare bead of glue without over clamping. Keep it flat during the cure.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

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will delaney

326 posts in 3087 days

#4 posted 07-31-2012 09:00 PM

You’s guys are great! No down time ask a question and you get an answer in real time. John the spline should do the trick. I do have some Titebond and will clean the joint give it another try. Thanks all. Will

View degoose's profile


7255 posts in 3806 days

#5 posted 07-31-2012 09:30 PM

All of the above… and this is a great place to have questions answered in real time… there is someone around the world awake…

-- Don't drink and use power tools @

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

392 posts in 2637 days

#6 posted 08-01-2012 02:21 AM

Either a spline or use a biscuit jointer with some titebond.

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3502 days

#7 posted 08-01-2012 02:29 AM

Be careful with the spline. Sometimes they swell and keep the joint from fitting. If you can, use leftover teak for the spline. Another thing to consider; as edge-grain to edge-grain makes a very strong joint without any help (glues are stronger than the wood or they’re useless), just run your bead and clamp. Use c clamps on the ends to force them to line up, a mallet in the centeer and tighten the clamps in steps. Don’t over tighten.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 3302 days

#8 posted 08-01-2012 02:33 AM

No one mentioned lacquer thinner or naphtha to get rid of the oils. And I agree; no splines, no biscuits.

Boatbuilders regularly use epoxy on teak with great success. They clean as well, and definitely underclamp.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View handi's profile


159 posts in 4891 days

#9 posted 08-01-2012 10:21 PM

Wiping the edges with acetone is critical. The teak has oil in it that will ruin even an epoxy bond.

I like to use “V” bit sets for edge gluing thin panels. The V gives more glue surface and keeps the joint aligned so there is far less need for flattening afterwards.

You can see the process in a video on my website. Scroll down the “Skill Building” page, it is About the 5th one from the top, Aligning Thin Edges for Glue Ups.


-- Watch Woodcademy free on Amazon Prime!

View MonteCristo's profile


2099 posts in 2640 days

#10 posted 08-02-2012 04:01 AM

The Gorilla glue should have worked but maybe you didn’t dampen the surfaces first ? I would have thought Titebond was not the best option given the naturally high oil content of teak. Also, clamping boards only 3/8” thick requires some care as they could easily flex and compromise the glue joint. You should use some scrap wood strapping to prevent this.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View usnret's profile


184 posts in 2960 days

#11 posted 08-02-2012 05:33 AM

I used Titebond III on teak for edge gluing and gluing end grain and it has held up for 8 months now. Before you glue the edges wipe them down with denatuted alcahol or mineral spirits to remove any natural oils from the wood.

-- Chief Petty Officer USN(RET) 1991-2011

View will delaney's profile

will delaney

326 posts in 3087 days

#12 posted 08-02-2012 11:55 AM

There definitely is not one way to do this. It seem like everyone has had successes with different technique. There seem to be one common thread, to clean the joints of the natural oils. I did use Titebond and hopefully it will hold. If I were to do it again I would of made two panels. Time to research rail and stile bit sets. Thanks for the info. I will post the project when done. Will

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