LumberJocks

Deep Beautiful 14 Degree Dovetails with a PC Jig? Yep.

  • Advertise with us

« back to Jigs & Fixtures forum

Forum topic by pintodeluxe posted 07-25-2012 04:16 AM 7631 views 12 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6318 posts in 3822 days


07-25-2012 04:16 AM

Topic tags/keywords: dovetail dovetails dove tail porter cable porter cable rockler router jig 4210 4212 4216 half blind half-blind halfblind

I have long wanted to get deeper dovetails and a 14 degree angle with my PC 4210 jig. The bit that comes in the kit is 7 degrees, with a 3/8” depth of cut. The standard dovetails have such a shallow angle they almost look like box joints.
After consulting the manual, I learned that when cutting half blind dovetails there are several other bits that will work (Through dovetails are limited to 7 degrees with this jig).
I ordered a Rockler dovetail bit 5/8” wide, with a 5/8” depth of cut, and a 14 degree angle. I set the depth of cut slightly less than 5/8” (measured from the router bushing to the tip of the cutter) and it worked great.
The pictures show the 5/8” deep dovetails next to the 3/8” deep stock dovetails.
I prefer the deeper sockets because they feel stronger, and really look like dovetails.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush


14 replies so far

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2742 posts in 3586 days


#1 posted 07-25-2012 04:33 AM

Thanks for the update. :)
The 14 degree dovetails indeed look better than the 7 degree ones. A good trick to add to the arsenal.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View jdmaher's profile

jdmaher

472 posts in 3589 days


#2 posted 07-25-2012 12:49 PM

I like the look.

Did you use the standard bushing?

3/4” Front and 1/2” sides?

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6318 posts in 3822 days


#3 posted 07-25-2012 04:31 PM

Jim,
Yes I used the standard PC bushing. In this case I used 3/4” fronts and 1/2” sides, hovever other thicknesses will work too.
The PC advanced manual makes it seem like you need to use two bits and a two-pass method to achieve this look. I should mention that with this bit… it is a one bit, one-pass method.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5341 posts in 4970 days


#4 posted 07-25-2012 04:34 PM

Now this is what Jocks is all about. Thanks for the tip.
Bill

-- [email protected]

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

13615 posts in 3702 days


#5 posted 07-25-2012 04:53 PM

This is really good to know, as I put mine on the shelf for the reason you mentioned. Thanks!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View jdmaher's profile

jdmaher

472 posts in 3589 days


#6 posted 07-25-2012 07:24 PM

Thanks, Willie.

Better looking tails, and still a single pass, huh?

I’m gonna have to give these a try. The 1/2” shank version (Item # 91089) is only $17.99 at Rockler. Very cool!

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6318 posts in 3822 days


#7 posted 01-15-2013 08:47 PM

I just completed 12 drawers using the 14 degree bit, and was really impressed with the results. I am using 3/4” oak for the fronts, and 3/4” poplar for the sides. I can’t believe how much stronger these joints feel with the bigger dovetails.

The setup is so easy on the Porter Cable 4210 / 4212 jig.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View RogerInColorado's profile

RogerInColorado

321 posts in 2964 days


#8 posted 01-23-2013 12:01 AM

This is Super!

View Socceref's profile

Socceref

22 posts in 2994 days


#9 posted 03-12-2013 08:08 PM

Thanks for the information nice to know.So you can use the 7 or the 14 degree bits with the same template?
Paul

View AandCstyle's profile (online now)

AandCstyle

3293 posts in 3266 days


#10 posted 03-13-2013 12:37 AM

Willie, these are very nice looking DTs. I can hardly wait to see the finished product.

-- Art

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6318 posts in 3822 days


#11 posted 03-13-2013 06:45 AM

Paul,
You can use both 7 and 14 degree bits for the half blind template.
The through dovetail template is limited to a 7 degree bit.

Good luck!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Panthera's profile

Panthera

5 posts in 36 days


#12 posted 01-24-2021 04:27 AM

Which manual? Mine does not mention anything like that. It is good information. For the blind dovetails I tried other bits. The PC one is 17/32 7 degree, which is an odd size. I tried a 1/2” (only 1/32 narrower) one from a set (not sure the angle, but steeper than 7, looks like 30) and it would not work. I could not get shallow enough. I then tried a 9/16” one (1/32” larger), again, not sure the angle (still larger than 7), and this one is fine. I will try and get the angle. It would be good to keep track of which bits work. 5/8” 14 degree looked good, am ordering a bit now. The 5/8 depth you used would make it tricky for rabbited blinds though, on a 1 inch face (3/4” thick) that would only leave a 1/8” rabbit. Silly rabbit, just make a separate face!

A quick question, how do you get the contrast? It appears you are using different woods, but do you stain them separately before assembly? I am just a beginner at woodworking. TIA.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6318 posts in 3822 days


#13 posted 01-24-2021 04:37 AM

Something in the advanced manual gave me the idea to use a different bit.

I usually stain the drawer fronts prior to assembly for a nice contrast.

Good luck with it!


Which manual? Mine does not mention anything like that. It is good information. For the blind dovetails I tried other bits. The PC one is 17/32 7 degree, which is an odd size. I tried a 1/2” (only 1/32 narrower) one from a set (not sure the angle, but steeper than 7, looks like 30) and it would not work. I could not get shallow enough. I then tried a 9/16” one (1/32” larger), again, not sure the angle (still larger than 7), and this one is fine. I will try and get the angle. It would be good to keep track of which bits work. 5/8” 14 degree looked good, am ordering a bit now. The 5/8 depth you used would make it tricky for rabbited blinds though, on a 1 inch face (3/4” thick) that would only leave a 1/8” rabbit. Silly rabbit, just make a separate face!

A quick question, how do you get the contrast? It appears you are using different woods, but do you stain them separately before assembly? I am just a beginner at woodworking. TIA.

- Panthera


-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Panthera's profile

Panthera

5 posts in 36 days


#14 posted 01-25-2021 06:50 PM

OK, some more info. I was using a 5/8” bit, looks like 15 degree, from a cheap set I had for a while. It seems to work fine. I was working with plywood, so some chipping, but the dovetails look good and solid (or as good and solid as it gets with plywood). Slight depth issue, a few thousandths.

The depth was just under 5/16”. It was snug, requiring a bit of tapping, but not a lot. If anyone has other bits they tried that work, it would be great to know.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com