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Forum topic by KnickKnack | posted 07-01-2012 10:39 AM | 7060 views | 0 times favorited | 24 replies | ![]() |
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07-01-2012 10:39 AM |
Topic tags/keywords: router table insert plate router table insert plate question I’ve been lucky enough to be able to move to a large-than-cupboard-sized workshop, and one of my first tasks was to make a new (version 3) router table. Full specifications of which you can find here. Feature 6 on the list is… They’re right – it isn’t flat – my straight edge rocks slightly, but nicely, when on the crown of the plate. So – I have 2 questions…
Thanks in advance for the wisdom I know will be brought to bear here on my behalf. -- "Do not speak – unless it improves on silence." --- "Following the rules and protecting the regulations is binding oneself without rope." |
24 replies so far
#1 posted 07-01-2012 11:00 AM |
Myself I just installed a brand new router table and an insert. When I click on the link above I get this: Sorry the product you have requested is no longer available. This could be the answer to your question. -- Bert |
#2 posted 07-01-2012 11:08 AM |
The general idea is that the crown would flatten out when the router is attached. I don’t know who came up with this idea, but 1, if it’s necessary there’s an inherent weakness/problem with the router plate design, and 2, they probably never used a router table. The trend plate looks a lot like the jessem plate, also “designed” with a slight crown. The rings are a major PITA to remove. In regards to your second question, if you can make due with a single sized hole, and get your table absolutely flat, then a plate offers no real advantage except for easy removal of the router. You can rout a recess on the underside of the table where the router goes to lessen the thickness that the router mounts to, giving you more depth. I plan on buying the incra aluminum magnalock plate. I do use a variety of different sized bits, and I like how easy the rings are to swap out and you can adjust them to be level with the top via set screws. A very well made plate, I’m just not a big fan of the gold color, but whatever works. -- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet. |
#3 posted 07-01-2012 11:19 AM |
I have the Veritas steel router table plate and it too, is deliberately and ever so slightly crowned. That’s what the folks at Lee Valley said when I bought it and it has always worked well for me. Check out this link to their page : http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=41793&cat=1 -- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced. |
#4 posted 07-01-2012 11:31 AM |
I remember reading about the Jessem: -- --Tyrone - BC, Canada "Nothing is ever perfect, we just run out of time." |
#5 posted 07-01-2012 02:10 PM |
in my old home built router table, eventually it ended up being concave where the router was. What happens then is that the depth of cut depends on pressure across the router bit… not what you want. a small crown would seem to work against this – i could see it being very handy. |
#6 posted 07-01-2012 02:41 PM |
My first question would be; is it made in China. If it is then that is also most likely your answer too. |
#7 posted 07-01-2012 02:59 PM |
I imagine it is slightly crowned to accomodate the weight of the router. It should be flat after it is in place w/ the router hanging on it. -- Bondo Gaposis |
#8 posted 07-01-2012 03:07 PM |
I use the inserts because, if I use a feather board pushing down on the work, a larger hole will allow the front corner to sometimes dip into the hole. AND, a close to zero clearance makes my “in the fence” DC system work a lot better. -- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton |
#9 posted 07-01-2012 03:44 PM |
My first question would be; is it made in China. If it is then that is also most likely your answer too. When I click on the link above I get this: Product Not Found I’ve thought some more about this – say I’m routing a thin square slice out of a 10mm square length of wood – this drawing, to scale, shows the angle I’m going to be getting! I also find it strange when I have a longish piece of perfectly flat wood, that it’s only actually on the table at one end. And, as I route along it, at some point it’s going to “tip” from being down on one side of the table to the other side. I agree with Aaron – slightly raised is way better than slightly dipped. As for the weight arguments – well – that may be true, but it seems to be a “one size fits all” approach – I imagine some routers weigh a lot more than others (mine is pretty light). I have written to Trend, drawing their attention to this discussion – we’ll see what they have to say. Thanks for the replies – it seems I’m not going crazy after all! -- "Do not speak – unless it improves on silence." --- "Following the rules and protecting the regulations is binding oneself without rope." |
#10 posted 07-01-2012 04:17 PM |
I have both the Jessum and Incra plates (and lifts). The incra is far and above a better product and the magna inserts rock. -- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes |
#11 posted 07-01-2012 04:55 PM |
I made a fix for my sagging router table about 4 years ago. It still works fine. I also assume that it’s for flex under a heavy router. -- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected] † |
#12 posted 07-01-2012 05:06 PM |
Think about the geometry of the table and bit. If the table were slightly depressed at the bit, you would either have to use quite a bit of downward pressure to get your cut – or put up with slight variations in the profile depth. With a slight crown, the wood will be at the correct height at the bit without using excessive downward pressure. The wood will “roll” slightly as it passes the bit, but always be at the correct height. A perfectly flat table would be ideal – if the workpiece was also perfectly flat. A workpiece with a slight bow would route better on a crowned table than a flat (or depressed) one. -- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it. |
#13 posted 07-01-2012 07:13 PM |
I would NOT want such an insert plate in my router table… Mine would have to be FLAT with the table… ... just my opinion… -- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php?media/albums/users/joe-lyddon.1389/ |
#14 posted 07-02-2012 10:53 AM |
Plywood is flexible. So is plastic and most any other material usable for this purpose. Don -- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced. |
#15 posted 07-02-2012 05:54 PM |
If the bottom of the table is reinforced with vertical ribs, it does wonders to keep it flat. -- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php?media/albums/users/joe-lyddon.1389/ |
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