Ehh... Stainless steel chisel?

Carbon steel is preferred generally because it is not
hard to sharpen and holds an edge well. It’s also
cheaper I think. I know there are some fine stainless
steels but the stainless knives I have used don’t
seem to hold an edge very well – which isn’t a big deal
in the kitchen but for cutting wood it matters.

Stainless is too soft to hold an edge well.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

Ehh, 318 stainless steel is pretty hard… Harder then Bi-metal and basically, to drill stainless steel, you need LOTS OF LUBRICANTS and a cobalt drill bit.
Also, Stainless steel doesn’t rust.
I’ll probably start building one, and get a rough bevel using 80 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
WISH ME LUCK :P
More comments, tips and suggestions are APPRECIATED!

-- My terrible signature...

318 stainless is soft.
All of the 300 series are very good for corosion resistance, tough and hard to drill, but still soft.
It contains about 8% chromium which is hard, but about 18% nickel which is very soft.
Also, the 300 series have very low carbon can not be hardened.

The 400 series have higher levels of carbon and can be hardened. That is why they are used in knives.
Even the hardest stainless is only around 55 to 60 rockwell C hardness which is at the low end of what makes a good chisel or knife.

I wouldn’t waste my time on a stainless chisel. It will be very hard to sharpen and will lose its edge very fast.
Even the 400 series, like surgical 440 steel will loose its edge quicker than carbon steel and will be horroble to sharpen.

Alexandre , You seem to have already convinced yourself to make it so…...

Do what you want to do , you’re going to anyway !

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

I have seen stainless steel chisels, used by bone surgeons and they are very pretty with sculpted solid steel handles, but they exist only for two reasons. One is they can be autoclaved to death again and again, the other is that somebody else sharpens them every single time they are used. Does this sound like you?

-- [email protected] : dovetail free since '53, critiques always welcome.

A stainless steel chisel would be the smart choice, when carving table centerpiece ice sculptures for a wedding or party. If I had the stock, I’d try it!

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

Yup!
It’s gonna be a chisel with:
A maple handle.
5-6” long blade
25 degree bevel.

-- My terrible signature...

I think I have a couple SS chisels. Stanley Atha ones, both are Cold Chisels. Never had a spot of rust on them, ever. 3/8”, and 1/2” wide.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

sounds like you’ll make it anyways.

but for sake of keeping this thread informative – a SS chisel is a horrible idea for woodworking – the edge will be lost quickly and it’ll be a pain to resharpen as opposed to CS. it is good for application that might be dealing with moisture induced environments, and in those cases those edges are kept sharp more often than a WW might want to work on it.

now – I know it sounds like a great idea so that you won’t have rust on your chisels in theory , but in practice, if you use your tools, and care for them – you won’t get rust on your CS chisels either – I have never had any rust on mine – and none are stainless.

I’d personally find a better use for that SS stock, but thats me…

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Experience is the hard way to learn things, but sometimes appropriate. I think this may be one of those times. That said, I hope it works out for you Alexandre.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

Ehh, What should I use for that SS stock?

-- My terrible signature...

I was planing to make a SS chisel to do some ice carving in the cold canadian winters if the ss chisel doesn’t hold up well for woodworking.

-- My terrible signature...

Three years later…... Lee Valley now has a 440 stainless steel “Perfect Pattern” chisel. It comes individually and in a set. No information is given as to the type of 440: A, B, or C. Type C is considered by many the only acceptable stainless steel for cutting. A number of alloys exist which, though not being explicitly labeled “stainless steel” do have good corrosion resistance. SV30 is one such steel and it is highly regarded by many knife makers.

-- Marvin, Kiger Island

Lee Valley’s PMv11 is powder metallurgy stainless. It’s generally accepted as a good tool steel, though a bit hard for sharpening with natural stones

-- occasional musings on my blog: www.bridgerberdel.wordpress.com