Poor me Two table saws, need a solution

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Forum topic by Brett Clark posted 04-16-2012 01:32 AM 4965 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brett Clark

12 posts in 3331 days

04-16-2012 01:32 AM

Ok, here’s the situation. I bought an old Craftsman table saw model #: 113.22411 made in the 40’s I think with a 1HP motor. Like the one in the first pic, though now where near as nice.

Then I found the one in the second photo for $50 and the motor is a 1.5 HP so I figured the motor alone was worth that. If you know the model # please let me know, I can’t find it anywhere. The actual saw is rather beat up, but I can definitely get it in good working order, I think :-).

So here’s what I’m wondering. First, should I put the Leland 1.5 HP on the better, all cast iron saw?

Second, should I refurbish the saw and try to sell it, maybe without the motor because I kind of want to keep them. I could get one from a guy here cheap and put that one on. I know this guy who mounted two on a stand, kind of low, so he could run 4 ft. sheets of plywood through it having such a huge table, plus, he had one dedicated for dado and the other regular saw. If I did that, I’d want to get some better wings because the lesser one has a thinner aluminum wing. I’ve also been thinking about buying an old body from a saw similar to my bigger one and mounting the top and guts to it so it will have much more heft. There are a few I can find.

Third, should I just forget those other ideas and try to make this cheaper saw into a router table? It is a cast iron top, but I can probably get it machined to work out. Then I could have a nice size top. If I did, should I put wood, or whatever that cutting board type material on top? I really wanted to make my own horizontal routing table and put my long Bosch Single-Flute Straight Bit that is something like 3-4 inches long.

Please help, I really need to get going on this. Thanks ahead guys.

Well, looks like I can’t post images without a photobucket account, which I really don’t care for. If there’s any other way please let me know. You can see them at this link which is the same question verbatim.

19 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


118161 posts in 4638 days

#1 posted 04-16-2012 01:38 AM

Looks like photobucket is the only way to go.


View WinterSun's profile


163 posts in 3671 days

#2 posted 04-16-2012 02:17 AM

I don’t see any link. Imgur is a great image sharing site and should work fine if you’re not able to attach images directly from your computer.

-- Rory // Milwaukee, WI

View RandyM68's profile


693 posts in 3379 days

#3 posted 04-16-2012 03:13 AM

Brett, you can upload pictures off of your computer. Hit the img button in the reply box. move the mouse around and a browse button will appear. If you don’t move the mouse, you won’t get browse, you’ll just see Insert an image from your computer (or from the web). When you move it, the rest of the window pops up. Just navigate to the folder that you have your pictures saved in. click on the picture you want and the info pops into the box. Hit insert this image, and your link is inserted at the top of your post. You can cut and paste the code to put the picture where ever you want it in the text. It is very easy to do, but they forgot to tell people how to do it. Using Photobucket is a pain in the butt, I can’t even remember my password anymore. A twin table saw sounds like a cool idea. So does a horizontal router.

-- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you. I'm sorry,thanks.

View RussellAP's profile


3105 posts in 3348 days

#4 posted 04-16-2012 03:33 AM

I don’t know if it makes any difference, but I’d check the motor RPM and make sure it is close to the original Craftsman motor. It should say on the plate of the motor.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Boxguy's profile


2895 posts in 3329 days

#5 posted 04-16-2012 05:05 AM


I am fortunate enough to have a large shop. So I have three table saws that I run. My Unisaw I use for general sizing of wood and 1/8 inch grooves. The other two are old craftsman saws that I set up with dado blades that fit the wood I use for splines and box bottoms.

If you have room you can run your two saws back to back and one will be the extension table for the other. That really works well for me. It doesn’t take up more room than another extension table would and it adds versatility. What I like most is not having set up time.

You absolutely must replace the fence on your Craftsman saws. Shop Fox makes a nice one that isn’t too expensive. Peachtree sells zero clearance inserts for your saw. It takes too much time to build one yourself by the time you rout out the edges.

I kept the one saw because it was my dad’s, but by the time you get a motor, fence, insert, belt, and new pulleys you will have quite a bit of money in a rebuild.

-- Big Al in IN

View Brett Clark's profile

Brett Clark

12 posts in 3331 days

#6 posted 04-16-2012 06:32 AM

This is the type I have, though no where near as nice when I refer to the nicer saw.

These last three are the one I recently purchased.

Boxguy, I have a lot of pulleys pulled out of an old barn. I’m sure I can find something to work. I really like the back-to-back saw ideal. I have heard I absolutely must replace these fences. That’s just something I really can’t afford at all right now. Any way to make something else, like from a rigid or bosch, work on this one?

View knotscott's profile


8415 posts in 4437 days

#7 posted 04-16-2012 12:36 PM

Keep your eyes peeled for a deal on an old Align-a-rip or Ridgid fence, or save your pennies and get a new Delta T2 fence for ~$150 shipped….very nice fence for the money. Maybe you could sell off some parts of the saw you don’t use to cover the fence cost.

That saw should clean up nicely with some elbow grease…..and mineral spirits with scotch brite, steel wool, or fine sandpaper.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View dhazelton's profile


2839 posts in 3358 days

#8 posted 04-16-2012 12:51 PM

I have a couple of the Craftsman saws made by King Seely, older than yours. Yours look like 1960s vintage. I don’t think you can bolt them together back to back as the motors hang out beyond the table, unless you put another piece in between. Here’s the table saw section of the OWWM site:

This guy has a nice setup – you could do two saws, one on each end.

Go through the photos and there will be lots of interesting setups with folding outfeed tables, fence upgrades etc. The rail on your fence is all aluminum and prone to breakage. There are some purists who might buy your fence, but they are a dime a dozen so it won’t bring much. I bought an older new-in-box Delta Unifence to use when I get around to setting it up properly.

View Brett Clark's profile

Brett Clark

12 posts in 3331 days

#9 posted 04-16-2012 02:23 PM

You are right, it was late when I typed that and wasn’t really thinking about it. but it is a great idea. I haven’t looked up the serial #, but was told it should be in the ‘40’s sometime, that one up there isn’t mine. I pulled that off this site I think when I was looking at what I could do with mine. I’ll get some pics of mine up, it’s not in nearly as good shape. So there’s nothing I can do to help this fence for now? I haven’t figured out what all the problems were with the fences.

View dhazelton's profile


2839 posts in 3358 days

#10 posted 04-16-2012 11:04 PM

There’s nothing hugely wrong with the fence, you just need to use a tape measure for adjustment on the older ones as the aluminum rail has no indicator marks. The older fences aren’t as parallel to the blade as newer high end fences without some checking and tweaking but they will work fine. It’s wood working, not heart surgery. And there’s something satisfying about refurbishing old equipment and customizing it to your needs and wants.

View Brett Clark's profile

Brett Clark

12 posts in 3331 days

#11 posted 04-16-2012 11:51 PM

There sure is. Any advice on tweaking the fences, or either shaving down the aluminum square to the blade or adding a sacrificial piece of wood?

View dhazelton's profile


2839 posts in 3358 days

#12 posted 04-17-2012 01:04 PM

Sure, add a supplemental wood fence if you are doing things like rabbeting or whatever. The fence lock mechanism is just a long metal rod that pulls a piece tight against the back of the saw table and it may have some play and just needs a nut tightened. I go to the publication reprint section of all the time – just look for your table saw’s part number (probably 103. ———) a ‘103’ prefix is King Seeley (Walker Turner made their earlier saws). Whatever you need to know about adjusting the fence or table trunions motor pulley sizes, lubrication if any, will be there.

View Stickbug's profile


3 posts in 1148 days

#13 posted 03-01-2018 03:31 AM

Hello and need help, I have a 113.22411 table saw from late 1940’s, it has grease cup and I need to replace bearings, these are open on one side type bearings and they accept grease from grease cylinder inside arbor support. Sears parts direct has original schematic and offer what appear to be a sealed bearing but do not offer dimensions. I anyone knows of an exact replacement or alternative part please let me know. Original bearing have number on them, I think: 7207-10 and Made in U.S.A. Greatly appreciated any ideas or parts site with a good replacement. I can be contacted at : [email protected]

View woodbutcherbynight's profile


8884 posts in 3470 days

#14 posted 03-01-2018 03:42 AM

You cannot really put them back to back as they are contractors saws. But as someone else mentioned you could go side by side and have all cast iron top. Throw in some cast iron wings and you have a nice setup. Currently under construction in the shop is a cabinet for two Delta contractor saws. One will be for normal cuts the second one set up for dado work.

Work in progress:

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


8528 posts in 3260 days

#15 posted 03-01-2018 03:53 AM

Original bearing have number on them, I think: 7207-10 and Made in U.S.A. Greatly appreciated any ideas or parts site with a good replacement.
- Stickbug

Those cross reference to 6202-5/8 bearings – standard 6202 with a 5/8” bore (the -10 denotes the 5/8” bore).
You can get sealed (6202LL-5/8) or shielded (6202ZZ-5/8). I’d go sealed but it’s your call. Give Lynne a call over at Accurate Bearing and she will hook you up (please read this first though).


PS: This thread was started in 2012, so if the OP hasn’t figured it out yet, he probably never will :)

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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