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Forum topic by live4ever posted 01-02-2012 08:50 AM 2221 views 0 times favorited 45 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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983 posts in 3928 days

01-02-2012 08:50 AM

In the shop we are often faced with a task and multiple ways to perform the task. That decision point, which we go through tens of times every day in the shop, can have huge implications not just for the satisfactory result of the task but also our safety.

I recently had the simple decision of how to do the following and I’d like you to choose your own adventure. How would you do it in your shop with your tools?

You want to 45-degree bevel one edge of a 3/4” thick 2×2” workpiece.

NOTE: Try not to look at other responses before you answer. Just ask yourself how you’d do it and post your reply. If you just agree with another poster it’s really no fun.

As Charlie points out, I left out a key detail – the depth of the cut is all the way through the 3/4”, as in making a mating bevel on a french cleat block.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

45 replies so far

View derosa's profile


1597 posts in 3754 days

#1 posted 01-02-2012 08:53 AM

I would cut that on the bandsaw. Being that small I might try the scroll saw but I don’t know if it goes to that angle. Bandsaw seems safest otherwise.

-- A posse ad esse

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2080 posts in 3558 days

#2 posted 01-02-2012 10:47 AM

I would tilt the bed on the Ridgid sander to 45 degrees, slide the miter gauge into the track (to give me something to hold it against straight), then gently feed it into the belt until I see it reach the top corner. Total time about 30 seconds. Fingers (and the skin that covers them): intact.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View Nighthawk's profile


557 posts in 3275 days

#3 posted 01-02-2012 10:50 AM

Depends on the wood hard or softwood… but most likely I would go to the band saw (if I had one…) but in this case since that it is still on my wish list (but hopefull for not to much longer… the scroll saw would also work… being so small a cut possible hand cut it… but it depends what the part was for and how accurate I have to be with the cut.

However I would have most likely put the bevel on it before it was cut down to (converting imperial to metric and back again) ermmmm size and most likely on the table saw with a jig or even mitre saw, and then cut my shape…

-- Rome wasn't built in a day... but I wasn't on that job? ...

View Gary's profile


9416 posts in 4351 days

#4 posted 01-02-2012 11:21 AM

I have a sliding jig I use on the TS for small cuts. Guess I’d use that

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View miles125's profile


2180 posts in 4923 days

#5 posted 01-02-2012 12:00 PM

I’d do the bevel on the jointer to long lengths before ever cutting them into 2” long pieces.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

12263 posts in 4346 days

#6 posted 01-02-2012 03:20 PM

Router table, long stock (or a small parts holder) and a 45 bevel bit.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Alan Robertson's profile

Alan Robertson

67 posts in 4836 days

#7 posted 01-02-2012 03:21 PM

Table saw.

-- MrAl

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


16982 posts in 3536 days

#8 posted 01-02-2012 03:24 PM

Mark it with a gauge, plane with a cambered #5 until close, finish with a smoothing plane. 90 seconds or less, no safety concerns.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

View bent's profile


311 posts in 4587 days

#9 posted 01-02-2012 03:25 PM


View kizerpea's profile


775 posts in 3285 days

#10 posted 01-02-2012 03:33 PM

table saw…push stick..or custom push board..more than one way to skin a cat!


View CharlieM1958's profile


16289 posts in 5136 days

#11 posted 01-02-2012 03:34 PM

I can’t answer without know how deep of a cut we’re talking about. If it’s fairly shallow, I would do it on the router table with a 45 degree chamfering bit.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View ChuckV's profile


3337 posts in 4445 days

#12 posted 01-02-2012 03:45 PM

If possible, I would have beveled it on the TS before the piece was cut so small.

Otherwise, I would use a hand plane.

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

View bunkie's profile


415 posts in 4065 days

#13 posted 01-02-2012 03:50 PM

I would hot-melt glue the workpiece to a longer board and cut it on the tablesaw.

-- Altruism is, ultimately, self-serving

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3992 days

#14 posted 01-02-2012 04:25 PM

Others have said that they would make the 45 cut while the piece were still bigger and cut it down to size later. I agree with that. But sometimes that is not an option. Hence I offer how I would do it if I did not have the option of making the cut earlier.

I would cut a scrap piece of larger wood with a 45-degree angle, clamp that piece to the sled for my TS and clamp the small piece to the scrap block I had made.

Also – by drilling a hole into the scrap piece, I would be able to securely clamp the small piece to the scrap piece using a clamp like this

Note, these clamps are handy for a number of applications other than just adding a sacrificial board to your TS fence.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View PurpLev's profile


8601 posts in 4566 days

#15 posted 01-02-2012 04:30 PM

router table with a 45/bevel cutter and a push block/sled. since it’s just 3/4” thick material this would be the easiest, safest, and cleanest cut

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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