Edge jointing with a router

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by will delaney posted 11-22-2011 09:03 PM 1965 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View will delaney's profile

will delaney

326 posts in 3088 days

11-22-2011 09:03 PM

I am planing to use a table router to do my jointing. I would like to know what type of results I could expected. What has been your experiences preforming jointing with this method? Also do you have any advice on the router bit that I should use. Space and money is the decision maker now. I just want to seeing what my limitation and expectations should be. Thanks

8 replies so far

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2940 days

#1 posted 11-22-2011 09:25 PM

Since I don’t have a dedicated jointer, I use the router all the time. It does a good job for it’s limitations, (small 1.75HP, 1/4” collet), I use a 5/8” straight cutting bit 1” long which is also a limitation, but hasn’t bothered me yet as I don’t do much that is over 3/4 – 1” thick.
If I take my time, point the grain the right way and take shallow passes it works well——for me, but YMMV.

I’ve thought about buying a newer, bigger fancier router, but lately I’ve spent way too much on other stuff and will have to wait until after the first of the year.

I’ve made a bunch of standing block cutting boards with this method and also some treasure boxes for the grand kids. The joints are tight, except where I screw up, or miss something.
I also built the galley cabinets in my RV, and those came out a bit better than expected.

Good Luck!


-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View degoose's profile


7255 posts in 3807 days

#2 posted 11-22-2011 09:27 PM

The only way I know of using the router table for jointing is if you have a split fence… thus allowing the timber to stay flush on both sides.. if you do not have a split fence might I suggest a small shim on the out feed side the same thickness as the depth of cut of the bit… as to bits a sharp straight flute will work but a spiral bit would be better.
Hope this helps
PS… I know you wouldn’t do this but…don’t run the timber between the fence and the bit….definite… no no…

-- Don't drink and use power tools @

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5216 posts in 4413 days

#3 posted 11-22-2011 09:31 PM

Pay attention to the goose man. Split fence, shim the outfeed side, take small cuts, and keep the infeed side of the workpiece tight to the fence. You could also use a glueline rip blade on the TS. That’s what I do.
It is all in the set up.

-- [email protected]

View NiteWalker's profile


2739 posts in 3029 days

#4 posted 11-22-2011 10:05 PM

I made a simple dedicated jointer fence for my router table.
It’s just a pieces of 3/4” baltic birch plywood about 5” wide with a notch for the bit and a piece of plastic laminate glued to the outfeed side. Works great and took 15 minutes to make. The hardest part by far is aligning the fence to the bit. Even with a straight edge, any small deviation can induce headaches.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View will delaney's profile

will delaney

326 posts in 3088 days

#5 posted 11-22-2011 10:13 PM

Thanks guys! Doesn’t take long to get some real answers. I do have a split fence just need to buy a bit. Just did a search on glueline TS rip blades. I didn’t know about them. This look like a good option or combination. Degoose what is the differences between a straight flute and a spiral bit. I usually work with the thickness of 1” or smaller. The router I have uses 1/2 or 1/4” collet with 2 1/2 hp. So i guess I am in good shape. Thanks again for the safety and technical advice.

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 3376 days

#6 posted 11-22-2011 10:35 PM

I use an LS-25 Incra with a 1/2” spiral cut bit. My jointer sits in the corner gathering dust.

-- Life is good.

View HawkDriver's profile


447 posts in 3086 days

#7 posted 11-22-2011 11:59 PM

I own this Bosch Router table Before buying a dedicated jointer, I used it for dozens of edge joints. It came with poly 1/16” shims for the outfeed side. The joints turned out great.

-- Patrick, Helicopters don't fly. They beat the air into submission.

View Brandon's profile


4152 posts in 3404 days

#8 posted 11-23-2011 12:13 AM

I used to do this before I owned my ancient Powermatic jointer. The results were OK. I have the Rockler router table, which has an MDF fence attach to a larger metal fence. For a shim, I cut a piece of laminate that I placed between the MDF and the metal fence on the outfeed side. It was a decent set up.

When I first got my router table I did try to run a piece of wood between the fence and the router bit like Degoose warned against. The board shot out of the table like a cannon and hit my garage door. It was definitely the most memorable moment I’ve had on my router table. Didn’t do that again. :-)

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics